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Thanks Wiring was as you described at first, but I noticed they were sensible to touch, so I tried twisting them together, and that was really bad. I put those back to confirm it returned to my starting state. I could try a C1K, I think I might have one, but yes, could be the wiring of the...

Yes, ins and outs are not resoldered yet. Here is the board. It was one of my first builds, so I did not care that much to put all resistors the same way. Pots under the board have covers on them Cap values General layout

Well, turns out the squealing was my fault, when I redid the wiring, I twisted the in/out wires together and that's my new problem. Should I go with shielded wires or just routing them correctly should be enough. Still got that initial high wind sound though.

I'm mostly positive that the LM1458 thats causing the noise. If I remove it and jumper the signal she sound perfect. Another thing I noticed, if I unplug the input in distortion mode while having the treble too high, it will squeal... it can also happen while playing. Do I have a bad IC or is...

Hi guys, one of my first builds was the lowballer, I always thought it was a noisy pedal, it making a sound like some high wind. The treble control introduces that sound, it gets annoying (to me) around noon. I tried reflowing everything, still sounds the same. After reflowing, I noticed the...

I do the same

I've used those lately, check my last build reports (my 3 big muffs) I bought 10 on aliexpress, they took forever to arrive, but the quality was correct. I drill a hole because the top is curved, then cut from the edge to the hole by hand with a saw. Then I use a file to finish the fit. On 2...

I would also start by soldering the pots. Edit, we posted at the same time, just saw it worked. How noisy is it, don't forget that boxing it might help on that.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Please post a few pictures showing clearly the components, solder and wiring.

@Phil hodson @DeadAirMD Here is the info for the standoff. They were spot on for me but I did my own drilling template. Here was his answer to me. Post in thread 'Is this the correct orientation ?' https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/is-this-the-correct-orientation.21161/post-268365

When I answered, I assumed you had it on hand. Robert's picture should help then.

Values are not printed on the board?

So it's been some time since I've posted a build report. It's mainly because time has been missing lately and I'm starting to slow down things a bit. I've still got a few builds to fine tune and have a couple waiting to be boxed and another couple of unpopulated boards. That one, I've build...

Still, seeing the outside of it does not help much. Clear pics of the inside will get you more helpful comments

Brett has a point, if it's a stereo version, then the ring lugs is already grounded to the sleeve, and connecting the tip to the ring, you would just ground everything. EDIT : A quick test you could do. Insert your cable in the jack and test with your multimeter for continuity between sleeve...

The in and ou wires are soldered to both 2 and 4, so it should be ok. There just would be no switching. Could we see your footswitch wiring. In fact, can we see the whole thing ?

That sheet says 1 = Sleeve, 2= Tip ... should work

I bend the legs of resistors and caps. Sockets and anything that has more that 2 leads, I tack 1 lead quickly with my iron, position it while applying just enough heat, then solder everything without forgetting to go back at that first lead. Togglesand pots, I install them in the drilled...

I saw the rat, then the rabbit. Funny how when you know it's a cow it becomes hard to see anything else.

Next time, you could have just left it there and heat that pad when inserting your socket or ic. Having solder on more than one pad may not be ideal, but just one is manageable. Hope it still works, it does not look too bad. (Edit, just saw your answer above, great)