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Could be nothing, are the silent ones are without pot lug extension wires?

Remember to post pictures of your build to help troubleshooting, but if what @Cybercow pointed out doesn’t remove the noise it’s good to look into lead dressing. Are in and out wired running near noise emitting components and is shielded i/o wiring needed?

But but but buttt my G(e)FF sounds bit different day to day… Yeah it could be temperature drifting, but it mostly got to do with WHERE I stand in rehersal room, how guitar feedbacks on that particular spot. And this whole sensitivity changes with how my amp gain stages are set, but the most...

I think using one or two mechanical switches defeats the purpose what relay switching is used for. It’s for 2-3x longer life in use compared to a latching one. Swtch on pcb could be led pwr out, but without pcb schematic or docs in hand its hard to make more than a guess. So you want: -relay...

That’s missing pwr gnd reference for pcbs, won’t work as intented. Your first posts picture is an attempt for star grounding method, but misses one thing about shielding. If going for star-G, the shielding should be with one single common gnd reference and all gnd leads should go to one single...

Fix the schematic with white textil painter pen! There’s no other option.

Well this thread really grabs attention and educates, please continue! :)

This has been my main pedal since build. Q1-2 use germ-transistors you have, 30-60hfe. Q3 germistor or Si. I used really high gain darlington, but find no use for MORE-switch (boost) as darlington transistor used takes off fuzz’ edge too much.

I’m using steel wire balls meant for cleaning stock pots. They’re found from your local hyper market or grocery. Do whatever with this piece of information about the misuse of kitchen stuff.

One more thing about your test with and without pedal in front. Are you sure your ears tell the truth and mix hop on gain level and compression as more bass? Record or look into it with visual eq/freq analyser (for example voxengo span), but remember to set volume on both options as near as you can.

Probably reduces unnecessary bass freqs and helps to avoid overloading transistor. Is there enough lows for you atm?

That’s a squeeze! Nice work. How you figured out promixities of different stages and did you plan safe distances on ’em? And how’s the overall hum&noise floor?

One bolt to shield ’em all. Quick update: -getting terminal strips, power filtering caps and resitors this week :) -incircuit polys are somewhere on way and I cannot track ’em :(

FF FFS

Did you try different power supplies or 9V battery?

First thing wired and had some difficulties getting thick solid wire through pin terminals. Gonna make it more tidy, trim wire ends and add next twisted pair leading to PI heaters before soldering. Oh, and preamp circuit is going to be mix between 1gen model T and EL34worlds Plexi with hot...

Cleaning chassis off unnecessary pcb standoffs, removed choke and test fitted tube sockets to help visualizing heater and PT wiring.

Did some chassis measuring yesterday for choosing right sized turret board. 300x40cm board with 30x2 lug stands will fit nicely. Still need to do some ahead planning figuring out power filtering section placement and doing a checkup on parts I already have on storage shelves.

Thanks for reply @owlexifry I looked into Fender schematics you posted and to be honest they just appear too similar to the amp I have. Maybe I need to ditch considering Bassman completely to avoid ending up with two too similar amps. To easen up things, this is schematic of the amp I have...

Started a new topic on my WIP. Long story short I have gutted my old headache-inducing Peavey Valveking 212 to plain chassis. Circuit was same as in VK 100w Mk1 head. Plan is to use VKs original PT, aftermarket OT and maybe a choke I have around. Be free to recommend, instruct etc on my plans...