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I hear you, but I'm not very experienced with schematics so I take my chances. Let me try to figure this out (it's going to take me a lot longer than 30 seconds).

Thank you for your forbearance. I built it exactly to the stripboard layout attached (with the exception of the germanium transistor and the aforementioned resistor change). Q4 (BS170). D =8.94v, S - 4.8v Q3 (104NU71). C = 3.4v, B = 0.65v

Hi again (and sorry again). I had to raise R18 from 33k to 470k to get to a drain voltage of 5.5v on Q1. Does this seem outlandish? And is there a downside to ending up with this much higher value? The other thing I'm struggling with is getting Q5-E up to your suggested 5.3v starting point...

Thanks. It's actually this stripboard layout I'm working from. I'll socket and test the 3.4 jfet when I get to that stage. I've measured all the N-channel jfets I have and that's still the closest I've got

Hi @Chuck D. Bones , Sorry to invoke your name, but I wanted to build this and the closest J112 I have (out of 30 tested) is 3.4 Vp. Is this close enough or should I keep hunting?

It's a great fuzz. It's not that I dislike the separate controls, but for me the Nature control functioned very well and gave me the range of tones I needed. If it ain't broke and all that. The only reason I changed was in the hope of fixing thr oscillation issue. Mission accomplished.

Yep. See #5

I've since disassembled this build to reuse some parts so I can't test that theory. However, I did move wires around in case it was a lead dress issue and it made no difference. I'm not sure that was the cause (for whatever that's worth). The side circuit is this (switched to off):

So, I rebuilt this pedal as the four-knob version and there are no oscillation problems. A bit of a shame, though, as I much preferred the Nature knob to the separate bass and treble pots and I don't think I'll be able to get it into a 1590B, which would have easily fitted the three-knob one. Ah...

Thanks for the suggestions. The only cap I have in that range is a 100pf and it doesn't really help, although it does change the pitch of the whistle a bit!

Anybody out there?

I built the three-knob Pink Purple/Fuchsia Fuzz from this stripboard layout: I used an MPF4393 in Q1 and an MP38A in Q3. I used 1n4001 as D1 and D2. Everything else is as in the layout (or at least that is my belief). The pedal works but I'm getting oscillation in the higher reaches of the...

Apologies and thanks for the response. I will post in Troubleshooting. To answer your question, I built it from this layout but with an MPF4393 in Q1 and an MP38A in Q3: https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/08/bjfe-bearfoot-pink-purple-fuzz.html?m=1

Hi Chuck. I have just built the three-knob version (yes, silly me, it was before I realised there was a refined version) on stripboard, but I'm getting oscillation with the fuzz pot in the higher regions on certain spots of the Nature pot. The oscillation remains no matter Q3 (I have a load of...

Did you ever find a solution to this? I just built a three knob version and I'm having the same issue with a variety of germanium npns. I have double-checked pinout and I am putting them in the correct orientation (I'm socketing). It's only at some points in the fuzz and nature controls but the...

The depth pot wiring needs to be mirrored from my take in post #23 above. Works fine now. Very nice-sounding pedal.

So I wired my depth pot like so... Do you know why the depth knob is working in reverse?

It's alive! I desoldered the whole board and migrated the components to a fresh piece of stripboard. Soldering went much more smoothly with magnification. One thing though: my depth pot is working in reverse: most intense at fully anti-clockwise and vice versa. The image shows how I've...

Yeah, my eyesight is definitely an issue soldering to stripboard. I ordered a magnifying visor, which unfortunately arrived when the board was mostly done. I will concede that the soldering is on the messy side. That said I'm getting continuity everywhere I should, and no continuity everywhere I...

I guessed that the 3PDT board might be the problem so I rewired it directly to a fresh 3PDT two days ago. I had a look at the schematic in the BYOC build document. It's practically illegible. In any case, I'm not terribly fluent in that language though I'm slowly working on it.