BYOC Brown Face stripboard query
- Thread starter Solder of Destiny
- Start date
Solder of Destiny
New member
Right, but where on the main board are the corresponding BI and BO connections?
BuddytheReow
Moderator
Check the bottom right of the layout for IN/OUT directions
bluedmc777
Well-known member
Have you already started building this project?
Solder of Destiny
New member
I think that's jack in/out?
jimilee
Well-known member
Bypass 5 on the main board is board in and bypass 7 on the main board is board out.
Solder of Destiny
New member
Yes, I have more or less finished it with the small issue that it is not working. The LED is flashing and the speed pot affects it but no sound. I'm not really sure how to wire the footswitch so that might be the issue.
bluedmc777
Well-known member
I just wanted to warn you that the one I had had a volume drop.
Solder of Destiny
New member
Annoying. I'm sure you've maxed out the level trim pot?
bluedmc777
Well-known member
Yes that’ll fix it but for some reason i didn’t care for the pre or something. Now that I’m thinking about it though I remember mine was version 1 they went back and fixed some things and made it better. Probably best to disregard what I’ve said. Unless you’re building version 1.
Solder of Destiny
New member
I can't get it working anyway. I think I might hate stripboard.
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Feral Feline
Well-known member
I'm not a fan of vero for a number of reasons...
Maybe try perf (which is not without its own middling-quirks).
spi
Well-known member
Did you look at the schematic for the BYOC Brown Face Tremolo? If so you'll see that it is not compatible with the bypass switch you are using--which is why the stripboard diagram tells you how to wire it directly to the switch rather than just specifying input and output like other circuits.
You should just wire to the switch directly as specified in the layout.
I think there is a way to make it work if you're creative--it would mean not using the LED or resistor and wiring one of the connections directly into one of the led's pads, but at that point, the board isn't adding much value so you might as well skip it.
You should just wire to the switch directly as specified in the layout.
I think there is a way to make it work if you're creative--it would mean not using the LED or resistor and wiring one of the connections directly into one of the led's pads, but at that point, the board isn't adding much value so you might as well skip it.
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Solder of Destiny
New member
I guessed that the 3PDT board might be the problem so I rewired it directly to a fresh 3PDT two days ago.
I had a look at the schematic in the BYOC build document. It's practically illegible. In any case, I'm not terribly fluent in that language though I'm slowly working on it.
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Solder of Destiny
New member
Yeah, my eyesight is definitely an issue soldering to stripboard. I ordered a magnifying visor, which unfortunately arrived when the board was mostly done. I will concede that the soldering is on the messy side. That said I'm getting continuity everywhere I should, and no continuity everywhere I shouldn't.
The magnifier is great for well-lit close-ups. I'm pretty confident there are no bridges.
Did you build yours on stripboard? Any chance I could see a pic of your switch wiring to the board?
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Feral Feline
Well-known member
That's a pet-peeve — BYOC would often have an illegible schematic in the PDF build-doc, in most cases, with a clean version of the schematic elsewhere on the website — why not just stick the good version in the PDF? IDK.
Here you go, a screen-grab of the PDF for the schematic (the PDF did not upload for me):
The above should be far more legible than the build-doc's schem, and if not...
If you need the original PDF or any other BYOC stuff, hit up @cwsquared for a ZIP-file of the entire BYOC collection.
Additionally, if you need more help deciphering schematics, check out BuddytheReow's heaping helping of helpful self-help handy threads in the TEST KITCHEN...
You've got your breadboard, jumper wires, offboard components, and breadboard components in hand and are ready to go. You download a build doc from PedalPCB website, skip the pretty picture of the PCB, skip the components listing since your order came in the mail 3 and a half minutes ago, get to the schematic and all the anxiety in the world is telling you to run away and return everything you just bought because you see THIS...
Don't worry! We are here to help you!
For purposes of this thread I would rather talk about what the components are rather than the why/how...
Don't worry! We are here to help you!
For purposes of this thread I would rather talk about what the components are rather than the why/how...
May be some bits to glean here, too:
Best of luck with your build.
