Search results

Will schematics for Loft Fuzzes be coming soon?

Nice work! You could probably fit in even more with compact jacks and compact 3PDT but that looks awesome!

I just need 1, but not heaps keen to wait 5-6 months. I'm happy to pay full price + shipping to Sydney, Australia if you don't mind posting overseas.

Congrats on the solid build, it looks great! Did you have the enclosure UV printed by Tayda?

I think your average resistor would be a bit more durable than that, maybe 10-20 bends before the leads snap. I haven't had a component lead snap from breadboarding yet and I've done a decent amount. But also they're 1 cent a piece. With those Amazon packs you'll wind up with heaps of values...

I've only ever had good experiences with Pedal Parts Australia, their parts have always been legit and decent prices too.

Oh sweet! Glad to hear you got it working!

If you're getting the same voltage on both pads it could be a short, either in the LED or on the board. Could you post some close up pics of the pads, both sides of the board?

Also remember to orient the switch the correct way. You can use a DMM to determine which side is normally open and which is normally closed.

Go for this one instead. It has solder lugs as opposed to PCB pins so will be easier to attach your wire to. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-stomp-foot-pedal-switch-momentary.html

Sick, glad you got it working!

All good. I'm pretty confident that the C9 is the culprit. Get that sucker turned around and you should be rocking!

I've checked the build docs and this cap is the wrong way around. This is your output coupling cap and is directly linked to output.

Your board looks really tidy so good work there! Sounds like it may be an incorrect component, may a 47k where it should have been 47R or something like that. First step is to go through each resistor and capacitor to make sure they're the right values. You also don't have dust caps on your...

Damn, that sucks! I've never ordered from Banzai myself, but have heard of other are having bad experiences so probably best to steer clear for now. As far as PF5102, these are only used for the input/output buffer so basically any JFET will work. I used J201's that I soldered on to an adapter...

Not super helpful, but I've never used solderless because I just don't trust it. Soldering your own cables is super easy, the connection is solid, and you can make them any length you want. Can you post a photo of the jack this is for? There are tones of 1/4" connector options, I'm sure there's...

All good! Hopefully you get that pedal DOOMING!

I wouldn't trust ebay for an LM308, and I believe that banzai has had some bad IC's and Q's of late so just be cautious. Best to stick with reputable stores you know will have the goods - tayda, smallbear, mouser, digikey to name a few.

I had a similar problem, replaced the LM308 with OP07 and it's working perfectly. Honestly, the LM308 is overpriced, overhyped and high chance it'll be a dud. The differences between it and the OP07 are almost inaudible and nobody will be able to pick them out in a mix. It may not be TRVE CVLT...

BAT46 and BAT41 are both good alternatives. I used BAT41 with no problems at all.