gregsmakercorner
Member
I just completed a 3d printed Muroidea / Rat clone, which is my 4th completed pedal. I did a few things different and I thought I'd mention it in case anyone is interested.
1) I used the TL071 Op Amp instead of the LM308. I didn't need to use the 30p capacitor but I soldered two wires to it (not connected) in case I decide to try it later. Other than that, it's the same circuit as in the directions.
2) I have been in the 3d printing hobby for a while (and have a YT channel on DIY printer builds, etc.). I wanted to see how far I could go with 3d printing. I designed my own 125B enclosure with Open SCAD (CAD program) and after several prototypes I arrived with a case that I believe will hold up. I also used a high temp filament, ASA, which requires an enclosed print and a lot of heat (270C, 100C heated bed) to print successfully. This filament is similar to ABS but also has additional UV protection, so you could leave this out in the sun or in your car and not have to worry about it warping.
3) The cover art is also 3d printed. I used a program called "Hueforge" which allows you to take a 2d image, match filament colors to it, and then print by changing colors as you go. It takes into account transmission distance (TD) of filament, so you can do some pretty amazing art even with just a few colors. This print only required a handful of color changes.
This pedal sounds amazing. I don't have a real Rat to compare to, but I love the distortion on it.
1) I used the TL071 Op Amp instead of the LM308. I didn't need to use the 30p capacitor but I soldered two wires to it (not connected) in case I decide to try it later. Other than that, it's the same circuit as in the directions.
2) I have been in the 3d printing hobby for a while (and have a YT channel on DIY printer builds, etc.). I wanted to see how far I could go with 3d printing. I designed my own 125B enclosure with Open SCAD (CAD program) and after several prototypes I arrived with a case that I believe will hold up. I also used a high temp filament, ASA, which requires an enclosed print and a lot of heat (270C, 100C heated bed) to print successfully. This filament is similar to ABS but also has additional UV protection, so you could leave this out in the sun or in your car and not have to worry about it warping.
3) The cover art is also 3d printed. I used a program called "Hueforge" which allows you to take a 2d image, match filament colors to it, and then print by changing colors as you go. It takes into account transmission distance (TD) of filament, so you can do some pretty amazing art even with just a few colors. This print only required a handful of color changes.
This pedal sounds amazing. I don't have a real Rat to compare to, but I love the distortion on it.
![IMG_3307.JPG IMG_3307.JPG](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/74/74928-1f1810e431b61919e198a86f436933af.jpg)
![IMG_3308.JPG IMG_3308.JPG](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/74/74929-c2255d5c7a948e2eb70d2dc4c9aa09dd.jpg)
![IMG_3309.JPG IMG_3309.JPG](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/74/74930-7398d0b67268bf94dfcdd7f6435cbafc.jpg)
![IMG_3312.JPG IMG_3312.JPG](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/74/74931-06037d9a3c250efc8ad5e205f884da8c.jpg)
![IMG_3314.JPG IMG_3314.JPG](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/74/74932-b799359b1f61f9f799a3d0f2148b918b.jpg)
![IMG_3315.JPG IMG_3315.JPG](https://forum.pedalpcb.com/data/attachments/74/74933-71fb408f0b5dfe6621a296df52667f88.jpg)