Anyone know where to find this part?

That seems one step below the behringer spring against the bottom plate. It just doesn't inspire a whole lot of confidence for me personally.

I'll say that what @KR Sound describes is a good method as opposed to ground springs. I used ground springs for early revisions of the Pompeii and what I did not like was how much pressure was put on the solder joints.

My Mooer E-Lady had a PCB mount tab that connected at the screw for the backplate and that was a really low friction, high contact connection, assuming the screw did not come loose!
 
The moment you daisy chain more than one pedal together the "single ground point" concept goes out the window.

Very true and honestly, were it not for how seamless and easy the Cliff washer is, I would not bother.

When "best practice" is this easy, you do it because, "Why not?"
 
I'll say that what @KR Sound describes is a good method as opposed to ground springs. I used ground springs for early revisions of the Pompeii and what I did not like was how much pressure was put on the solder joints.

My Mooer E-Lady had a PCB mount tab that connected at the screw for the backplate and that was a really low friction, high contact connection, assuming the screw did not come loose!
That's fair. I guess as long as the pressure is minimal then it's a step above the ground spring. Anything that pushes or pressures boards inside the enclosure seems like it would be undesirable in the long run though. But I have never seen a production pedal fail due to either of these options so I admit I am unjustified in my bias.

I saw a Mooer E-Lady locally for like 25$ the other day and remembered that there was a fan base for it. It was tempting for sure.
 
Cliff washers are the classiest solution in my opinion. Like Monk said, they're seamless and once installed you don't have to worry about them anymore... They're out of the way, no washers to remember to install.

Every modern Wampler pedal I've seen uses them on both jacks.


I don't mind the ground spring method, but they can be a little finicky when installing the PCB back in the enclosure. I'm always afraid the spring is going to catch the side of the enclosure and scratch the powdercoat when reinstalling...

They also take up a pretty good bit of PCB real estate. For perspective, this is the footprint of a Keystone 628 compared to a small PCB like the Super Stevie.

1711469908740.png
 
The house I grew up in had an old 1950's water heater that only had two wires, no ground...

Somewhere along the line some electrician realized that wasn't safe and wedged a ground wire into the cover that went over the heating elements.

Wheew, thank goodness for old Sparky, for a minute there (okay, like 60 years) that thing wasn't up to code! :ROFLMAO: 😬
 
The house I grew up in had an old 1950's water heater that only had two wires, no ground...

Somewhere along the line some electrician realized that wasn't safe and wedged a ground wire into the cover that went over the heating elements.

Wheew, thank goodness for old Sparky, for a minute there (okay, like 60 years) that thing wasn't up to code! :ROFLMAO: 😬
When I lived in Memphis, my house was built in 1926, and the house I have in DC was built in 1930 -- wanna talk about not up to code? Hell my Memphis house had knob and tube wiring. Every time I opened up a wall I got a surprise. Not much different here, but I've lived here for 23 years, and little by little, I've been bringing her up to code.
 
When I lived in Memphis, my house was built in 1926, and the house I have in DC was built in 1930 -- wanna talk about not up to code? Hell my Memphis house had knob and tube wiring. Every time I opened up a wall I got a surprise. Not much different here, but I've lived here for 23 years, and little by little, I've been bringing her up to code.

I used to spray loose fill insulation and there were many work stoppages in the city of Poughkeepsie, NY when pre install inspections found knob and tube.
 
I used to spray loose fill insulation and there were many work stoppages in the city of Poughkeepsie, NY when pre install inspections found knob and tube.
Ironically, knob and tube is fairly safe compared to some of the things I've seen. With knob and tube, you just need to add a ground -- and in those old houses, you have a network of radiant heat piping that can provide your ground. Some of the most dangerous stuff I have seen is in houses built in the late 60s and 70s with aluminum wiring and Federal Pacific (or as a lot of electricians refer to them -- Federal Pathetic) breaker boxes. Talk about a fire hazard...
 
Ironically, knob and tube is fairly safe compared to some of the things I've seen. With knob and tube, you just need to add a ground -- and in those old houses, you have a network of radiant heat piping that can provide your ground. Some of the most dangerous stuff I have seen is in houses built in the late 60s and 70s with aluminum wiring and Federal Pacific (or as a lot of electricians refer to them -- Federal Pathetic) breaker boxes. Talk about a fire hazard...
I recall a few Zinsco models from that era that were pretty bad as well.
 
I recall a few Zinsco models from that era that were pretty bad as well.
That whole era was bad. The first house I owned was built in the 70s, and I was scared to live there because of what was inside the walls. I'll take a historic house any day over that.
 
Ironically, knob and tube is fairly safe compared to some of the things I've seen. With knob and tube, you just need to add a ground -- and in those old houses, you have a network of radiant heat piping that can provide your ground. Some of the most dangerous stuff I have seen is in houses built in the late 60s and 70s with aluminum wiring and Federal Pacific (or as a lot of electricians refer to them -- Federal Pathetic) breaker boxes. Talk about a fire hazard...
I worked for a few years reconditioning/rebuilding those big power circuit breakers (the ones the size of a dorm sized refrigerator and larger). In our shop we saw the good, the bad and the ugly in breakers built anytime over the last 100 years.
We also had the same love for the FP breakers… we called them “fk’n pathetic”
 
When I started building pedals I was concerned about ground loops, coming from building amps. But I guess the voltages are simply not high enough to form eddy currents or whatever. I used not to ground to both jacks thinking that I would induce a ground loop, but was told I should do to ensure a good ground in case the first ground failed. So I tried and have not heard any difference whatsoever. In an amp the hum could be overwhelming, but in a pedal? No difference. Not in any pedal I have yet built anyway. There may come a time...
 
When I started building pedals I was concerned about ground loops, coming from building amps. But I guess the voltages are simply not high enough to form eddy currents or whatever. I used not to ground to both jacks thinking that I would induce a ground loop, but was told I should do to ensure a good ground in case the first ground failed. So I tried and have not heard any difference whatsoever. In an amp the hum could be overwhelming, but in a pedal? No difference. Not in any pedal I have yet built anyway. There may come a time...
The only ground loops I had with pedals was back in the day, I had one of those DOD steel pedalboards that the pedals bolted to. So you had pedals all bussed with common ground plane, then connected with patch cables and of course the power supply was non-isolated so you had that ground path, and since the power supply had a grounded cable, you also had that ground path to the amp.
Solution- every other pedal power cable and every other patch cable between pedals needed to have a ground lift to minimize paths.
Within a single pedal though? Never had a loop.

Coming from the amp world as well, grounding is a bit of an art, with some science involved and just a little bit of luck/magic involved to make it work right!!! Always cracks me up when people connect their pedalboards or multi-fx into a tube amp using 4 cable method, then blaming the pedals for ground loops (which they just call “noise”, and it takes you 3 hours to get them to tell you what you are trying to diagnose), when the reality is they don’t realize they are upsetting that fragile little balance of the internal amp ground scheme
 
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