Bass Big Muff Pi
- Thread starter lukegalea
- Start date
Popnfreshbass
Well-known member
Build the Green Russian version listed in the build docs. It is what the bass big muff was inspired by, and frankly, sounds a lot better on bass IMO.
Definitely. Especially since the Muffin is a Big Muff Pi clone with 9 different BoM configurations to better match various Muffs. IMO, The main thing for bass is to make sure that C1 is large enough (greater than the common 0.1uF), since it, along with R2 form a high-pass filter which defines the main low-end response. Other coupling caps (3, 4, 7, 12, 13 - those "inline" with the signal), with higher values will also pass more lows.
It looks like the "Mask Us", "Bigger Muffin" and "Fox" are intended for a lower range. Like Popnfreshbass says though, the Green Russian is likely the predecessor to the "Bass Big Muff".
This site compares many muff models and some of the other Mods and clones including schematics and some component analysis: http://www.bigmuffpage.com/Big_Muff_Pi_versions_schematics_part3.html
Can I just say here, googling "Big Muff" might distract you from your original intent.
It looks like the "Mask Us", "Bigger Muffin" and "Fox" are intended for a lower range. Like Popnfreshbass says though, the Green Russian is likely the predecessor to the "Bass Big Muff".
This site compares many muff models and some of the other Mods and clones including schematics and some component analysis: http://www.bigmuffpage.com/Big_Muff_Pi_versions_schematics_part3.html
Can I just say here, googling "Big Muff" might distract you from your original intent.
Replace the 100n coupling caps with 220n caps and the 100n clipping caps with 47n caps. This will give you more bass and the fuzz will be a little more saturated and not just on the top end.
To figure out what the coupling and clipping caps are, check out this page and compare the schematic to the Muffin one: http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_guts.html#Circuit
To figure out what the coupling and clipping caps are, check out this page and compare the schematic to the Muffin one: http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_guts.html#Circuit
Also, socket the clipping diodes and try some things out. There are a lot of different variations:
No diodes in first stage: more bass, but may be too much
LED's in both stages: more of a fuzz/hoof sound. Different color LED's clip differently. Red clip quickest with the least amount of headroom. green/blue/violet, the most headroom before clipping.
Silicon in both stages: traditional muff
No diode in second stage: louder more uncompressed muff, but may be too much
I landed on yellow LED's in the first stage and violet in the second.
I also have an Ungula with green LEDs in both stages and that sounds great too. Red were too compressed for me. But socket and see what your ears like.
Also make c10 .01uf for flat/not scooped mids... if you want more guidance on this, check out the kitrae large beaver mid-range switch: http://www.bigmuffpage.com/images/schematics/1976_BMP_Schem_Mids_Switch_Mods.jpg
You can see that c9 and c8 (in this diagram... not sure exactly how they match up with the Muffin) need to be the same for flat mids. Personally, I think that flat mids are enough, esp if you don't want to put in a mids knob.
No diodes in first stage: more bass, but may be too much
LED's in both stages: more of a fuzz/hoof sound. Different color LED's clip differently. Red clip quickest with the least amount of headroom. green/blue/violet, the most headroom before clipping.
Silicon in both stages: traditional muff
No diode in second stage: louder more uncompressed muff, but may be too much
I landed on yellow LED's in the first stage and violet in the second.
I also have an Ungula with green LEDs in both stages and that sounds great too. Red were too compressed for me. But socket and see what your ears like.
Also make c10 .01uf for flat/not scooped mids... if you want more guidance on this, check out the kitrae large beaver mid-range switch: http://www.bigmuffpage.com/images/schematics/1976_BMP_Schem_Mids_Switch_Mods.jpg
You can see that c9 and c8 (in this diagram... not sure exactly how they match up with the Muffin) need to be the same for flat mids. Personally, I think that flat mids are enough, esp if you don't want to put in a mids knob.
Last edited:
peccary
Well-known member
Have you built the J Mascis version? I'm wondering how that sounds with bass if you've had any experience with it.
I would think that the J Mascis Fuzz would be too fuzzy and not have enough low end... but I haven't tried one myself!
tymguitars.com.au
Here's a board of it: https://www.deadendfx.com/product/trible
Build doc: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VEhySsGf8St2pYcb_50k34kOBtm0vAyF/view
Tym Fuzz Munchkin
This is a limited edition clone of J Mascis from Dinosaur Jr’s live fuzz pedal. Reverse engineered from J’s original pedal and built here at Tym guitars by hand it is endorsed and used by J. These are electronically exact clones of this famous pedal and uses the exact component values and...
tymguitars.com.au
Here's a board of it: https://www.deadendfx.com/product/trible
Build doc: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VEhySsGf8St2pYcb_50k34kOBtm0vAyF/view
