Best place to order resistors?

[swelchy]

View attachment 89902
love my lead bending tool

(i have no idea what a lead bending tool looks like)
googles...

wtf

View attachment 89903
WHY DID NO ONE TELL ME ABOUT THESE

if anyone stateside needs one I can rip these out with the 3d printer in like 5 minutes.... just cover postage and i'll send you one.. just pm me

 

[CheapSuitG]

Good to know. I didn’t realize the tolerances could waver that much. I’ll definitely watch out for that. Out of curiosity, is returning them an option?

I saw that Mouser does returns but not sure the policy on it.

Recently I ordered some electrolytics from them that are about 10 times too big. Didn't look at the sizing, just the value. I didn't look into returning them since it was just a handful and assumed shipping would have been more. than the loss.

Let me know what you find out for future reference, I am bound to screw something else up in an order.

 

[jessenator]

Good to know. I didn’t realize the tolerances could waver that much. I’ll definitely watch out for that. Out of curiosity, is returning them an option?

I mean, probably, but in this economy and now knowing it was my fault for just blindly buying it I'm not too bothered But lessons learned, all the same. Look!


I'm sorta falling out of love with the idea of putting Wimas in everything---I mean, not gonna chuck out the ones I've got. I'm also not going to resort to using the no-name box caps I got from beezosmart a while back for doing verification builds and breadboarding, but I'm not going to invest in more red bois without reason. I've had this nagging in the back of my brain that we bandwagon and/or cargo cult them; we build for other builders to ogle in build report gut shots, and its added value is bling factor. Not talking about specific people who use them, but just our collective acceptance.

If someone brings me a breakdown of different cap brands, large sample size stress testing, in double blind testing fashion, demonstrably showing that they are worth the premium, that's another story, and I'll stand corrected.

 

[CheapSuitG]

I have the nicer caps like wimas for PPCB builds but have a bunch of greenies for breadboarding. 2 cents a piece, longer legs to make strange jumps and look cooler which is really important for TOAN.

I think greenies are a little more noisy than box style but I haven't a/b'd them directly. With breadboarding it is already noisy, doubt I could hear the difference in that situation anyway.

I mean, probably, but in this economy and now knowing it was my fault for just blindly buying it I'm not too bothered But lessons learned, all the same. Look!


I'm sorta falling out of love with the idea of putting Wimas in everything---I mean, not gonna chuck out the ones I've got. I'm also not going to resort to using the no-name box caps I got from beezosmart a while back for doing verification builds and breadboarding, but I'm not going to invest in more red bois without reason. I've had this nagging in the back of my brain that we bandwagon and/or cargo cult them; we build for other builders to ogle in build report gut shots, and its added value is bling factor. Not talking about specific people who use them, but just our collective acceptance.

If someone brings me a breakdown of different cap brands, large sample size stress testing, in double blind testing fashion, demonstrably showing that they are worth the premium, that's another story, and I'll stand corrected.

 

[kootenaykid]

If they're like me, they ordered the wrong size and even the smallest one is too big for the PedalPCB builds we're doing.
So we (I) just use... bare fingers, maybe needle-nose pliers sometimes. Mostly fingers.

I also found the tool to be the wrong size no matter what. Fingers is what I ended up doing.

 

[Feral Feline]

There are smaller sizes, but I never bothered to get a smaller size after realising it's just as easy/accurate for me to bend them by hand.

As owlexifry noted, they are handy for vero builds.

 

[swelchy]

I also found the tool to be the wrong size no matter what. Fingers is what I ended up doing.

just printed and checked... yes the normal 1/4 W pedalpcb spacing is literally the smallest size on the versions I downloaded to 3d print... currently messing with tinkercad to design my own that's just for pedalpcb 7.6'ish mm spacing

 

[jdduffield]

I realize it’s slightly off topic, but how important is it to bend the leads on the flip side of the board when soldering? Most builders do this to hold the leads in place. Some say it is better because of the mechanical connection aspect (in other words, not depending solely on the solder for conductivity). I prefer to skip that step and just put a piece of electrical tape down to hold it. I usually do like ten at a time anyway. I guess I’m wondering if that’s ok or if I’ll regret that.

 

[owlexifry]

I realize it’s slightly off topic, but how important is it to bend the leads on the flip side of the board when soldering? Most builders do this to hold the leads in place. Some say it is better because of the mechanical connection aspect (in other words, not depending solely on the solder for conductivity). I prefer to skip that step and just put a piece of electrical tape down to hold it. I usually do like ten at a time anyway. I guess I’m wondering if that’s ok or if I’ll regret that.

doesn’t matter.
if it’s soldered in, it’s not going to fall out.
i don’t bend leads once it’s in the board. that’s what tape is for.
your method is just fine
i honestly despise the practice of bending leads as it increases the chance of shit shorting out on each other.

 

[GAStan]

I do bend my leads but only approximately 45°. Not so much for a mechanical connection but just enough hold them in. Bending them flat to the board could cause potential shorts as mentioned in the previous post. Then I cut them pretty close. In a circuit board the lead is close to the eyelet in the hole, plus 360° of solder for the thickness of the board, so electrical connection as well as mechanical strength are sufficient. Now turret, potentiometer or switch lugs and the like should have a solid mechanical connection prior to soldering.

When I learned Mil Spec soldering they taught us not to bend the leads but to use small clamps, tape or other means to hold component in place until soldered. I bend them because it works well for me, it's quick, and I don't expect my pedals to ever see combat so I'm not too worried about meeting Mil Spec.

 

[jdduffield]

potentiometer or switch lugs and the like should have a solid mechanical connection prior to soldering

I’ve wondered about this too. For a potentiometer, is it not enough to simply put the wire through the lug and solder it? Does it really make a difference if the wire is wrapped around and clamped prior? I guess my question is how strong is solder and if the solder didn’t hold wouldn’t it still short?

(Not being lazy, just trying to understand.)

 

[GAStan]

I guess my question is how strong is solder and if the solder didn’t hold wouldn’t it still short?

Great question. I don't know the mechanical strength of solder. It would probably be ok inserted through the hole and soldered provided the entire hole is filled with solder-this largely depends on the size of the hole vs the wire size. Closer fit = stronger joint.

In Mil Spec a primary concern is extended periods of vibration. This is also a concern with amps in combo cabinets or heads that can be set on speaker cabinets which is where my head tends to stay these days. Maybe not as big an issue with pedals but not a bad mindset to have. If the component soldered is a wire with a fairly long unsupported length the solder joint can be subjected to substantial vibration. Over time it can developed internal fractures and have symptoms similar to a cold joint.

Yes to the second part of your question, it would likely still short but it would more than likely be noisy or static sounding. Keep in mind that just because a solder joint sounds great  now it may not withstand a test of time.

If you have ever opened a piece of electronics and noticed a large component such as a capacitor with a blob of hot glue securing it to the board more than likely this was to prevent a vibration related failure-the designer didn't want to trust only the soldered leads in the long term. This is a method we can also use if a situation calls for it.

 

[kootenaykid]

just printed and checked... yes the normal 1/4 W pedalpcb spacing is literally the smallest size on the versions I downloaded to 3d print... currently messing with tinkercad to design my own that's just for pedalpcb 7.6'ish mm spacing

That would be sweet for sure! Definitely interested if you come up with something.

 

[swelchy]

That would be sweet for sure! Definitely interested if you come up with something.