SOLVED Blue Breaker no bias voltage

clarksjc

New member
Hello, I am new here. I have built a few pedals point to point but not with a pcb. I will consider myself a newbie at this point since I can't seem to get this working. I have replaced some of the off board wiring that has since broken from moving it too much 😵‍💫
I found that my voltage at the op amp is about 9v at pin 8, 0 at pin 4, about 2.5v at pin 2. All other pins are 7.49 to 8v. I will get the exact voltage tomorrow if needed.

I get about 9v at the junction of R11 and R12. 9v both sides of D5. So no bias voltage after the voltage divider if I am saying that correctly. Nowhere on the board.
I have since replaced C9 since it had a bad connection and I thought maybe I damaged it. Voltage also almost 9v at the positive side.

Anyway, the bypass works, the led comes on, but no sound. I used an audio probe and had a signal until C1 but nothing after. I also reflowed joints and cleaned the board.
I am fairly certain its my own doing, but need some help to figure it out please. I just want to get it working and then clean up some of the wiring. Thanks for any suggestions.

Sean
 

Attachments

  • 20231005_135129.jpg
    20231005_135129.jpg
    502.4 KB · Views: 26
  • 20231005_134957.jpg
    20231005_134957.jpg
    463.5 KB · Views: 26
  • 20231005_184810.jpg
    20231005_184810.jpg
    444.1 KB · Views: 26
Continuity checked out good. Here are the voltages for the TL072:

Pin 1: 8.59 volts
Pin 2: 8.54 volts
Pin 3: 6.89 volts
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 7.58 volts
Pin 6: 7.57 volts
Pin 7: 7.34 volts
Pin 8: 9.10 volts

Pin 3 is higher since my first post interestingly.
 
Last edited:
I agree, Robert said that early on and you've been pointing there too. Pin 3 seemed to change right after I replaced R11, not a bad resistor but something must be wrong in that area (caused by me).

Could be a short even though reading continuity? I'll poke around a bit more, then I may just build another board. The rest works great.

I learned a boat load from this, and really appreciate the help!
 
I agree, Robert said that early on and you've been pointing there too. Pin 3 seemed to change right after I replaced R11, not a bad resistor but something must be wrong in that area (caused by me).

Could be a short even though reading continuity? I'll poke around a bit more, then I may just build another board. The rest works great.

I learned a boat load from this, and really appreciate the help!
When Testing Continuity for Yellow & Red, put Yellow to Green & Red to Green to see if there is continuity, there shouldn't be!

Continuity test 3.jpg
 
All checks out good, in other words no continuity between different colors.

Question, could this IC internally cause this hard to find "short" or whatever if it were malfunctioning? I ordered
more sockets and IC's so I can do it right.

As I mentioned, I soldered it in (n)😞.
 
Yours looks like a Genuine TL072 BUT if too much heat is absorbed, it could screw it up internally.
I only used Machined Sockets on all my OpAmps.
Personally, I would cut each leg off at the top of the IC so you have 8 pieces you can grab with Tweezers & desolder one at a time.
Once removed, you can heat each pad individually and with a straw or plastic tube & you blow really quick at the same time as you take the soldering iron away with a Pffffff and you end up with a clean hole.
 
I want to thank everyone too and music6000 for your expertise and help. My lack of experience building pedals has just been stepped up a notch by learning from dumb mistakes of my own.
Feel free to let me have it, I deserve it!

It was the IC, or a short I caused when I soldered it. I don't know.

But here are the voltages now, with it pressed in to test.

Pin 1: 8.44
Pin 2: 4.48
Pin 3: 4.04
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 4.48
Pin 6: 4.49
Pin 7: 1.46 (Not sure about this one since it is not soldered in and might have moved around)
Pin 8: 8.98

I did a quick check that the pedal is working and it is. I might still build another!
 
I want to thank everyone too and music6000 for your expertise and help. My lack of experience building pedals has just been stepped up a notch by learning from dumb mistakes of my own.
Feel free to let me have it, I deserve it!

It was the IC, or a short I caused when I soldered it. I don't know.

But here are the voltages now, with it pressed in to test.

Pin 1: 8.44
Pin 2: 4.48
Pin 3: 4.04
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 4.48
Pin 6: 4.49
Pin 7: 1.46 (Not sure about this one since it is not soldered in and might have moved around)
Pin 8: 8.98

I did a quick check that the pedal is working and it is. I might still build another!
You did well, others would have thrown in the towel & put it in the Box of Shame!
 
Back
Top