Byzantium Flanger Parts Identification, Source, and Build Documentation Issues

B

BQFS

Member
Hi -

Just got done going through the parts list and putting together orders for what few components I didn't have in stock.

I found a source for almost everything between Tayda and Mouser, making sure to find caps that were less than the 7mm height maximum.

But I couldn't find a source for the 2-pin Female Headers 2.54mm, 2-pin Male Headers 2.54mm, or the 6-pin Male headers. Suggestions very much appreciated. The fundamental problem is that I don't know what I am looking for (physically) so it's tough to find things when I don't know what they are supposed to look like.

The other thing is that there doesn't seem to be actual build instructions that accompany most of the other pedal PCBs I have built in the past. It isn't obvious to me where the headers go. So, I would appreciate some guidance there as well. I presume the headers are used to join the two boards, but that's about as much of an assumption as I am comfortable in making.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice, suggestions, and assistance.

Bud
 
I haven’t built mine yet, but pretty sure I ordered the headers from Tayda.

Edit:

From the main tayda menu - Connectors and Sockets, then Pin Headers should get you to the right section
 
You want the ones that say they are 2.54mm spacing.


The way I like to do it is put the female one on the face of the bottom PCB (the one with the pots), and then the male pins on the bottom of the top pcb.

I like to put the male/female pins together, then tack one pin on each side, and make sure it looks lined up before soldering the rest.

Also, use the search in the build reports sub-forum and see if you find some visual examples. Maybe even in the troubleshooting sub-forum.
 
jcpst said:
You want the ones that say they are 2.54mm spacing.


The way I like to do it is put the female one on the face of the bottom PCB (the one with the pots), and then the male pins on the bottom of the top pcb.

I like to put the male/female pins together, then tack one pin on each side, and make sure it looks lined up before soldering the rest.

Also, use the search in the build reports sub-forum and see if you find some visual examples. Maybe even in the troubleshooting sub-forum.
Click to expand...
A lot of them say 2.54. I am sure you think I am an idiot, which is alright, because I think the same thing. Would you please indicate specifically which ones you use for the two-pin male, which for the two-pin female, and which for the 6-pin male? I sure can't figure out which ones to use. Thanks again. - Bud
 
Erik S said:
I haven’t built mine yet, but pretty sure I ordered the headers from Tayda.

Edit:

From the main tayda menu - Connectors and Sockets, then Pin Headers should get you to the right section
Click to expand...
I found the right section. Now if I only knew specifically which ones I need....
 
I needed to order some from Mouser so used these Samtec part numbers for the 2-pin:

TSW-102-07-L-S
SSW-102-01-L-S
 
BQFS said:
A lot of them say 2.54. I am sure you think I am an idiot, which is alright, because I think the same thing. Would you please indicate specifically which ones you use for the two-pin male, which for the two-pin female, and which for the 6-pin male? I sure can't figure out which ones to use. Thanks again. - Bud
Click to expand...

For the male headers I’ve always bought the breakable 40 pin strips and cut off whatever I needed.

www.taydaelectronics.com

40 Pin 2.54mm Single Row Pin Header Strip

GTK - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com

For female ones I’ve usually bought the pre made ones like this

www.taydaelectronics.com

2 Pin 2.54mm Single Row Female Pin Header

GTK - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com

But now I see that they also have breakable female ones, so I’ll probably just order some of those next time.


Also, looks like they’re mostly available in gold plate or not depending on how fancy you’re feelin.

As long as whatever you get is single row, 2.54, and not “right angle” (the ones with the bent pins, you should be good.

I’ve also made a 4 pin female work in a three pin spot by pulling the 4th socket out of the housing with pliers.
 
Erik S said:
For the male headers I’ve always bought the breakable 40 pin strips and cut off whatever I needed.

www.taydaelectronics.com

40 Pin 2.54mm Single Row Pin Header Strip

GTK - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com

For female ones I’ve usually bought the pre made ones like this

www.taydaelectronics.com

2 Pin 2.54mm Single Row Female Pin Header

GTK - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com

But now I see that they also have breakable female ones, so I’ll probably just order some of those next time.


Also, looks like they’re mostly available in gold plate or not depending on how fancy you’re feelin.

As long as whatever you get is single row, 2.54, and not “right angle” (the ones with the bent pins, you should be good.

I’ve also made a 4 pin female work in a three pin spot by pulling the 4th socket out of the housing with pliers.
Click to expand...
Just what I needed. Thank you so much! I was wondering if I could just break off what I needed, so that clarified that issue. I am very grateful for your excellent assistance. - Bud
 
southpaw-dd said:
I needed to order some from Mouser so used these Samtec part numbers for the 2-pin:

TSW-102-07-L-S
SSW-102-01-L-S
Click to expand...
I will have to keep these in mind, since, of course, I just completed and paid for the Mouser order. I figured I would find what few items remained on Tayda, which I did, but Mouser gets here faster so there's that. Thanks very very much! - Bud
 
Definitely use the good headers that EriK S said. They are very sturdy. I built this a few weeks ago and it’s great. The other thing to notice is q6. It’s BC560. You may or may not find it but make sure you are aware that it’s NOT BC550 like the others. Its’s very easy to miss. I didn’t have one so I used 2n5087 which is a great substitute that is easy to find. Just make sure your turn it 180 degrees from the screen print.
 
I read through your post again and have some other tips for this one. Build the top and bottom boards just like you would any other board. Populate the items from small to large. Do not do the headers until both boards are completely loaded (except Ic’s). Once both boards are populated its time for the headers. The way i do it is to use the female header pin for the bottom board and the header strip for the top board. The easiest way to assemble it is to place the long pins of the header strip into the female header so they are one piece. Place all of them on the bottom board (do not solder yet) and then line up the top board with the headers and place it on top. Check and make sure everything is as straight as possible and you have no clearance issues then solder the top then flip the whole thing over together and solder the bottom. It should look like this.
 

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I typically use internal lock washers on 16mm pots, but on stacked board pedals, I now exclude them. It does make a bit of difference on the clearance between the top board and the enclosure lid.
 
Audandash said:
I read through your post again and have some other tips for this one. Build the top and bottom boards just like you would any other board. Populate the items from small to large. Do not do the headers until both boards are completely loaded (except Ic’s). Once both boards are populated its time for the headers. The way i do it is to use the female header pin for the bottom board and the header strip for the top board. The easiest way to assemble it is to place the long pins of the header strip into the female header so they are one piece. Place all of them on the bottom board (do not solder yet) and then line up the top board with the headers and place it on top. Check and make sure everything is as straight as possible and you have no clearance issues then solder the top then flip the whole thing over together and solder the bottom. It should look like this.
Click to expand...
Thank you very very much. Up until reading your post I had absolutely NO idea how to solder the headers. Your idea is great, and that's my goal for today. Visualizing how things go together has always been a major weakness, so thanks again for clarifying this. Before finding your answer, I was getting ready to offer to pay someone to complete the build for me. Now I have the confidence to proceed on my own. Thanks again! - Bud
 
BQFS said:
Thank you very very much. Up until reading your post I had absolutely NO idea how to solder the headers. Your idea is great, and that's my goal for today. Visualizing how things go together has always been a major weakness, so thanks again for clarifying this. Before finding your answer, I was getting ready to offer to pay someone to complete the build for me. Now I have the confidence to proceed on my own. Thanks again! - Bud
Click to expand...
Your welcome. Just take your time. It’s a great build. With a little practice the stacked boards are just like any other build, they just fit in a smaller box (usually, lol). When you have multiple headers like that too, you may just want to solder one leg of each one first. That way if it’s not straight it’s easier to adjust. You will eventually treat the headers just like any other component. You may find another way to put them together that’s just the way I prefer and have had success with. One last tip. If you have an issue finding low profile electrolytic for a project like this use smd electrolytics. The plastic piece on the bottom is just a spacer. You bend the legs straight and the plastic spacer comes off. You now have a through hole electrolytic that is low profile. Tayda doesn’t have specific low profile electrolytics (sub 11mm) per se but they do have some values of smd electrolytics so you don’t have to order from multiple vendors.
 
Audandash said:
Your welcome. Just take your time. It’s a great build. With a little practice the stacked boards are just like any other build, they just fit in a smaller box (usually, lol). When you have multiple headers like that too, you may just want to solder one leg of each one first. That way if it’s not straight it’s easier to adjust. You will eventually treat the headers just like any other component. You may find another way to put them together that’s just the way I prefer and have had success with. One last tip. If you have an issue finding low profile electrolytic for a project like this use smd electrolytics. The plastic piece on the bottom is just a spacer. You bend the legs straight and the plastic spacer comes off. You now have a through hole electrolytic that is low profile. Tayda doesn’t have specific low profile electrolytics (sub 11mm) per se but they do have some values of smd electrolytics so you don’t have to order from multiple vendors.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the encouragement - I need all I can get! Also, great tip about the smd electrolytics. I have a bunch lying around that I will never likely use due to a design change so I will experiment with your idea on that. Thanks again - Bud
 
Here and here are some on amazon. I like the second kind as they are a bit shorter, just be mindful on the male pin of which end goes into the solder pads as they are slightly different diameters and the solder pad side is thinner. The way you do it is assemble both boards, then break off the pin heads you need (in pairs for this one) then connect the male and female sides together, insert them in both circuit boards so they are stacked and mocked up (do all the pins at the same time like this), make sure it all fits well, then while holding the boards together (flat on the table with some pressure from the hand feeding solder in) solder them together. This way you don't have to worry about lining them up since they are all lined up before you start soldering.
 
falco_femoralis said:
Here and here are some on amazon. I like the second kind as they are a bit shorter, just be mindful on the male pin of which end goes into the solder pads as they are slightly different diameters and the solder pad side is thinner. The way you do it is assemble both boards, then break off the pin heads you need (in pairs for this one) then connect the male and female sides together, insert them in both circuit boards so they are stacked and mocked up (do all the pins at the same time like this), make sure it all fits well, then while holding the boards together (flat on the table with some pressure from the hand feeding solder in) solder them together. This way you don't have to worry about lining them up since they are all lined up before you start soldering.
Click to expand...
I used that BLUE-TACK stuff to hold the headers in place. Worked a treat, and the boards sandwiched together just fine! I found those exact same headers on Tayda but thanks for the link to Amazon. I always like to have more than one parts source in case I don't have enough of an order to justify the shipping from Tayda. So thanks for that too!
 
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