Maybe the 47pF's needs to be bought down to 50V values to bring the voltages back!
Honest question, why should that matter? You always choose capacitors with a higher voltage rating that what you're working with, for some safety margin. I've heard 50-100% margin is the typical rule of thumb for electrolytics. I know some multilayer ceramic types have dramatic voltage versus capacitance curves, so people often get those with voltage ratings as high as budget/footprint will allow. I've never heard a technical reason as to why you shouldn't go too high on a capacitor's voltage rating. But I am just a hobbyist, learning from forums and such, so there are definitely gaps in my knowledge! I'd definitely like to know if there are some reasons beyond cost/size why capacitor voltage ratings shouldn't be too high.
I'm surprised it works at all!
When you stray from the BOM, this sort of thing tends to happen, You know this too well.
As long as it looks Cool , why stick with the correct parts is not the way to build a pedal!
This is why some of the long term Members just don't participate in these situations.
I just happen to see the voltages, Own a genuine pedal & gave the voltages
My 2 cents.
The Cattle Driver BOM doesn't call out capacitor chemistry, nor voltage ratings.
Electrolytics are shown on the schematic (and implied by the BOM footprints). I only deviated from that in four cases: C11, C16, C17, C19. C11 appears to simply be a coupling capacitor, film is very common for that role; here I assumed electrolytic was specified simply for cost/size reasons (as film above 1uF tends to get expensive). C16 and C17 I believe are just frequency filters, and I've seen every kind of cap used in this kind of role. Again, my assumption was electrolytic was chosen for cost reasons, and the chemistry shouldn't matter. I'm not exactly sure what C19's role is, though.
I would definitely like to learn how using film instead of electrolytics could affect the functioning of the circuit, so I can be smarter about this in the future!
I do have some 47pF ceramic caps that I could use to replace C12, C13. But C13 is a frequency filter cap, so I'd really be curious how a 1kV film cap could be a problem here. C12 is the LM301's compensation cap, ceramic does indeed seem more common for that role. I might go ahead and swap that out?
Here is my Original Buffalo TDX readings, Supply Voltage 9.09v
LM301:
pin 1: 7.63 - Did you read yours wrong, I rechecked 3 times?
pin 5: NEARLY 0. , DMM fluctuating.
I just re-checked, indeed mine is 1.46 on pin1 and 1.36 on pin5.
What kind of caps is your TD-X using for C12 and C13 (chemistry and voltage)?
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