Cutting Perf board

ryan z

Member
I got some of these to work on a project and I want to cut into small sections. What is a good way to do it nice and clean? The site says just score and snap, but it hasn't been that easy in my 1st attempt.

 
I just score and snap a little bit further than I need the final size to be (1/16” or so) and then I clean it up with a file or a belt sander. If you sand, be SURE to wear safety goggles and a very secure face mask (not just a regular dust mask, which will have gaps. Airborne fiberglass dust will ruin more than just your day)
 
I just score and snap a little bit further than I need the final size to be (1/16” or so) and then I clean it up with a file or a belt sander. If you sand, be SURE to wear safety goggles and a very secure face mask (not just a regular dust mask, which will have gaps. Airborne fiberglass dust will ruin more than just your day)
thanks!!
 
I usually go to the next row over then use a nice sharp knife and a metal rule to cut across the board approximately 20 times. Then just apply a little pressure and it will snap it off on that line
Once it snaps and is fully bent over I then run the knife down that edge to make sure all the copper traces have cut cleanly. If you don't and some of them are still attached they'll lift when you seperate the two parts.

Once you get a feel for it they will usually snap pretty cleanly. I never need to do any cleaning up anymore. These boards are as they snapped after scoring

20210813_170056_resized_1.jpg
 
It may seem obvious, but it wasn't mentioned yet — score the board on BOTH sides.


Of course that means making sure you're scoring is on the same line both sides, but it's easy to miss-count/miss-measure so warrants mentioning.

The more you score the more likely you'll have results like SillyOctpuss gets and not have to do clean up.

What Bricksnbeatles said cannot be emphasized enough — this stuff seems innocuous, but in fact is super-nasty what with the dust particles being so small. Damage done to your lungs might not show up for years to come, I don't know, and eye-irritants aplenty. I'd encourage using the already suggested protective gear for not just clean up of the edges, but even the scoring process.


In the past, I've used a small jeweller's-like hacksaw, and I know some people use a small cutting wheel (Dremel etc) — too much dust — Score & snap is the best way to go.
 
It may seem obvious, but it wasn't mentioned yet — score the board on BOTH sides.


Of course that means making sure you're scoring is on the same line both sides, but it's easy to miss-count/miss-measure so warrants mentioning.

The more you score the more likely you'll have results like SillyOctpuss gets and not have to do clean up.

What Bricksnbeatles said cannot be emphasized enough — this stuff seems innocuous, but in fact is super-nasty what with the dust particles being so small. Damage done to your lungs might not show up for years to come, I don't know, and eye-irritants aplenty. I'd encourage using the already suggested protective gear for not just clean up of the edges, but even the scoring process.


In the past, I've used a small jeweller's-like hacksaw, and I know some people use a small cutting wheel (Dremel etc) — too much dust — Score & snap is the best way to go.

+1
score on both sides, specially for this thick perf. And snap with plier. Its just enough. But, if you're perfectionist. Sand paper the outer for smooth look and easily to drop in enclosure.
Other method to cut with other tool
 
If you're cutting a large piece, clamp it in a vise, and if the vise isn't as wide as the piece you're about to snap, get some wood strips to stick on each side of the vero — that way if you've not scored an area enough it should still snap along the line you've cut and not snap into a jagged scrap.

Don't ask me how I know this.
 
I use the score & snap method that perfboarder mentioned & it works great. I usually run the blade 2-3 times per cut and it snaps easily by hand. Sanding the edges to get rid of any extra copper can be helpful in preventing short circuits & intermittent grounding against an enclosure. As fig said, make sure you wear a mask or use a dust extractor as the FR4 dust is much gnarlier that it appears.

It took me a bit of experimentation to find a method for marking the board for cuts & components. I usually mark cuts on the component (non-solder) side of the board with a sharpie, making sure to get a bit into the hole. That way when I turn it over, I can see the mark if I tilt the board a little bit. From there, I cut with a 3/32" bit (by hand or with a drill), and clean the edges of each hole with a 1/8-1/4" bit (by hand). I usually clean the board with 99% IPA before marking the component side with different colors for jumpers, resistors, film caps, electro caps, etc. If you mark the edge every 5 holes, it's easier to keep track of the component placement.
 
Depends on the perfboard. I have some that you can score and snap, but I have some heavy ones that are a pain to snap, so use a small hacksaw to cut. As @Feral Feline advices, I use a vice to hold it when I break it (or saw it), and find that effective.

I sand the edges smooth after cutting, wearing a mask of course--hmm remember when having a mask was a specialty item and not an everyday accessory? I'm not well-equipped with gear like dust extractors, so I do all my cutting/sanding out in the backyard.
 
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