Foxxey Fuzz...

[Coda]

Just finishing up a Tone Machine that has been beset by issues from day one. Naturally, no sound when plugged in, though I do get bypass. No LED, either. So, a power issue. I’m working on getting a pic of the underside ( I have to de-solder either the LED or the 9v). As I work on that, however, I have a question: should I get continuity between the positive of the 9v jack and the anode of the LED?...

Update: no bypass now. Something must be grounding out. I give up with this pedal.

 

[Barry]

Is there a cover on that Pot in the middle or something to keep it from shorting the board? Some of those solders could use a reflow

 

[Nostradoomus]

Is any stray wiring from your dc jack touching the toggle switch pads up top there?

 

[Coda]

Is there a cover on that Pot in the middle or something to keep it from shorting the board? Some of those solders could use a reflow

There is tape and card stock insulating that pot. My dust covers havnt arrived yet.

Is any stray wiring from your dc jack touching the toggle switch pads up top there?

That was my first thought, but as far as I can see it looks clear.

I’m setting this one aside for now. I’ve gotten tired of looking at it. This pedal has seen one set-back after another: wrong parts arrived, mis-drilled the original enclosure, ordered pcb-mount pots instead of solder lug, mis-drilled the second enclosure slightly, and then it doesn’t work. Sometimes you just gotta admit defeat...

Tomorrow or the next day I’ll tear it open again, reflow some soldered, and cover everything in a few layers of electrical tape...

 

[BuddytheReow]

Unfortunately, some of our best leading experiences come from troubleshooting. At the same time, it's sometimes best to walk away and refresh. I remember spending hours troubleshooting and turns out I bought a fake part from ebay.

 

[Dan0h]

I built a General Tso and it didn’t work. Turns out I plugged my input into the output and vise versa, now I always make sure I plug in the right way. The whole mirror thing can easily mess with your head since the entire build it’s reverse of how it is when you flip it over.

 

[Coda]

I took the pedal apart (mostly) today, resoldered a few spots, reflowed in others. I taped up the jacks as best I could, and did eliminated any stray wires. All back together now...and there is nothing. No bypass signal (only when jacks are unhooked from the enclosure), no LED. Nothing. I think I’m gonna set this one aside for a while, and start something else. It looks pretty, just no sound...

 

[music6000]

Just finishing up a Tone Machine that has been beset by issues from day one. Naturally, no sound when plugged in, though I do get bypass. No LED, either. So, a power issue. I’m working on getting a pic of the underside ( I have to de-solder either the LED or the 9v). As I work on that, however, I have a question: should I get continuity between the positive of the 9v jack and the anode of the LED?...

Update: no bypass now. Something must be grounding out. I give up with this pedal.

No, This circuit has the Resistor (R100) between 9v power & Anode, you should have continuity Top side of R100 to 9v Power & Bottom side off R100 to Anode!

You transistors legs have Cold joints.
A good sign is if you can see any form of a empty pad on component side it is lack of heat & penetration of Solder
The Red circles are all suspect spots, there are probably more :

 

[Coda]

No, This circuit has the Resistor (R100) between 9v power & Anode, you should have continuity Top side of R100 to 9v Power & Bottom side off R100 to Anode!

You transistors legs have Cold joints.
A good sign is if you can see any form of a empty pad on component side it is lack of heat & penetration of Solder
The Red circles are all suspect spots, there are probably more :View attachment 7685

Thanks for the extra eyes, I went back over every single solder joint, and still nothing. Something is shorting out and I cannot find it...

 

[Nostradoomus]

Does it fully work when you take the jacks out of the enclosure, or just sorta?