Golden Falk (Colombo Plexi Breed)

I also have the golden falk board sitting close to the top of my backlog. I haven't played through it or the marvel but from sound clips I think I like the sound of the marvel with single coils and the falk seems to just want to be let out to do it's thing with some hot pickups... But it is clear to me that I now need to add a marble drive to my list so I can really see how the sausage is made. And which flavors of sausage I prefer. Unless you're playing through a marshall everyone needs a MIAB.... Or maybe two or three.
 
Falk me that'd be coolio!
It could be called the "Mahvelously Guilded Big Falker"




Michael's Golden Falk build looks Falken A, by the by.




If I build it, I may call it "Gold Member"...

62b25d518448a436b675eae2a803b08a.png


Controls:

Bong & Blintz

Smoke & Pancake


Toggles: Pipe & Crepe
 
MichaelW said:
I wonder if there's a way to emulate a "bright cap" feels like it could use it.
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C7 and C8 are "bright caps". C8 is like the 470pF cap used in Marshalls at the mixer stage. The front end in particular of this circuit is based on Marshall amp circuits. It even has the cathode resistors for each channel on the source pins of the first two transistors (R4 and R5). Ad just like a later Plexi it has the same coupling cap values for the first stage - 22n for the normal channel and 2n2 for the bright channel (C5 and 6).
 
Another thing to keep in mind is the biasing can be dialed-in for 9V or 18V. If you want to be able run at either voltage, then the bias setting has to be a compromise between the two.
 
Chuck D. Bones said:
Another thing to keep in mind is the biasing can be dialed-in for 9V or 18V. If you want to be able run at either voltage, then the bias setting has to be a compromise between the two.
Click to expand...
If you're sticking with one or the other, it's half the supply voltage?
 
Yeah, more or less. Usually somewhere between 1/2 & 2/3 Vcc is good. Start there and tune by ear. Q3/Q4 bias themselves. Nothing to do there except make sure Q3 has a higher Idss than Q4.
 
MichaelW said:
Wait a minute, the Golden Falk can't run at 18v? Why not? I'm actually running at 18 it sounds better than 9.
Click to expand...
Question -- I just got the board yesterday and am going to build it. I have the right caps to tolerate 18V. My question: Did you have to bias the transistors differently at 18V or did you just "hit the 18V switch on the power supply and go"? I built the Viceroy which worked just fine when I "hit the switch" and I didn't need to re-bias it -- I think it also sounds better at 18V.
 
gtt said:
Question -- I just got the board yesterday and am going to build it. I have the right caps to tolerate 18V. My question: Did you have to bias the transistors differently at 18V or did you just "hit the 18V switch on the power supply and go"? I built the Viceroy which worked just fine when I "hit the switch" and I didn't need to re-bias it -- I think it also sounds better at 18V.
Click to expand...
I did not re-bias it.
 
I rebiased my build after giving it to a friend. I had it with 9 and 12v, but my friend has a 9v only board. He said the sound has improved after the bias.
 
MichaelW said:
The original pedal uses ceramic disc capacitors. Of which I have none....heh. But I was able to populate most of the ceramic pads with MLCC caps.
I really have no idea if it would sound any different with box film caps or cheap ceramics but if the designer of the pedal went with ceramics then there must be a reason. I'm toying with the idea of building another one with the disc ceramics just to see if it makes a diff.
Click to expand...
The only reason I can think of for a pedal builder to use disc ceramic caps is MONEY.

Pros:
dirt cheap

Cons:
unreliable
microphonic
non-linear
dielectric absorption (muddies the tone, may or may not be audible depending on the circuit)
 
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