SOLVED Grover drive help

G

gilmouring

New member
Hey guys,

hope this is the right place to post.
Please try to be lenient, this is my first build.

1st question: should I turn this? It says "If you can read this your switch is on the wrong side".
1720722157915.png


2nd question: the guy who sent me the components kit, send some wrong diodes and missed a 120k resistor

1st diode expected was 1N34A (D2) and he sent OA1182 instead
2nd diode expected was 1N4148 (D100) andhe sent 1N5817 (this one I still can't believe it, but 8 years ago I bought some components to build a big muff that I never used...and ta-da! I have the right one. But still curious if they could be swapped (I won't of course)

About the 120K resistor (Would be R9 in the docs), I have a lot of 100K...maybe it's moronic, but can I use a 100K?
I thought about serializing a 100K and a 20K but the space is too tiny...

By the way I opened a claim to the guy, cause I'm still missing the D2...

Here's the result so far


photo_5796279273756148344_y.jpg
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
Ah I almost forgot...from the docs it looks like you need to bridge some pins of the switch..
But I saw the build from another guy here in the forum and it didn't look like he did anything..

Thanks again and sorry for my ignorance, I know almost nothing about electronics!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Welcome to the forum.

1. It’s obvious that the 3pdt PCB is on the wrong side. Better to use a new 3pdt and wire it manually like in the build doc.
2. The OA1182 will work as well, any germanium with a forward voltage close to 0,3v will work. BAT46 is often used as well in other Zendrive like pedals. Try the OA1182 first to see how you like it.
The 1n5817 should work as well in the position of the 1n4148.
You can serialize 100k and 20k together and connect them in a V like shape so it will fit. We often do that when we don’t have the exact value in stock or need to create a more exotic resistor value.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
gilmouring said:
Ah I almost forgot...from the docs it looks like you need to bridge some pins of the switch..
But I saw the build from another guy here in the forum and it didn't look like he did anything..

Thanks again and sorry for my ignorance, I know almost nothing about electronics!
Click to expand...
You don’t need to bridge some pins on the switch when using the 3pdt mini pcb.
Without it you do.

Did you order via Musikding? Klaus has many orders and sometimes makes little mistakes like a missing component.
He will fix the issue but it might take some time.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Hey Harmaes,

thanks a lot! Very helpful!
Yes I ordered via Musikding...the guy had the BOM of the 2014 version of the pedal, but the PCB was the latest..
In the meantime Klaus answered he's sending the second and final fix with the 120K and the diode.
But I'll try with the one like you suggested.
About the mini pcb I wouldn't have a replacement....I'll try removing the soldering and turn it..
If I fail I'll make another order for a new one...and while I'm there I'll take some components, maybe for a future build ;)

Thanks again!!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
gilmouring said:
Hey Harmaes,

thanks a lot! Very helpful!
Yes I ordered via Musikding...the guy had the BOM of the 2014 version of the pedal, but the PCB was the latest..
In the meantime Klaus answered he's sending the second and final fix with the 120K and the diode.
But I'll try with the one like you suggested.
About the mini pcb I wouldn't have a replacement....I'll try removing the soldering and turn it..
If I fail I'll make another order for a new one...and while I'm there I'll take some components, maybe for a future build ;)

Thanks again!!
Click to expand...
Great, good luck.

Desoldering a mini PCB board is a major pain and you will break the switch probably. I've had more luck cutting it off with some cutting pliers and removing the residu solder joints as quick as possible. Otherwise a new 3PDT is advisable.
And shorten the wires to the 3PDT and make sure that the input and output wires aren't close to elco caps. Position the input/output wires alongside the PCB as shown in the build doc. You can order some longer wire to be able to do that. The wire Klaus is often too short for that.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Ok I'm ordering a new 3PTD.
And yes, cable wasn't long enough.
I'm getting some cable as well :)

No I did not know it was a fuzz into a zendrive!!

But I did noticed the 2 transistors and I thought it could be something like that!

I'll take a look at the zendrive circuit out of curiosity!

Can't wait to turn on my Grover...

Thanks again for the tips!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
So, it took almost an eternity but finally today I got the final parts!!

I got the missing diode early last week and soldered them...
Klaus confirmed the second diode could be swapped without problems...
I was still missing the replacemend switch + mini pcb...and while we were at it, I asked for 3 knobs and some extra cable...
5864048295704379390.jpg

Tomorrow or saturday at most I'll complete the build...
5864048295704379387.jpg

Maybe it's a very dumb question, but I'm not sure anymore....
The switch can fit the mini pcb in 1 way...
But does it change anything if the switch is turned by 180 degrees (I'm guessing not, but I don't want to wait another 2 weeks for another one :D)

Apart from that I should be good...I'll solder the new cable from the minipcb to the jacks...
And everything should by tidy and comfy :D

Will post a demo of the pedal if in the end it works 😂😂😂
 

Attachments

  • 5864048295704379394.jpg
    5864048295704379394.jpg
    112.4 KB · Views: 9
Upvote 0 Downvote
Upvote 0 Downvote
Hello there,

I finally completed the build yesterday.
I have to say...great pedal.
Just a few issues that I'll explain in the video below, where you can also hear a small demo.

Thanks everyone for the support!

 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Oops, my bad.

Post a picture of the inside, showing all of the wiring.

The wires from the board to the stomp switch must be very short. The blue and brown wires must be kept apart. The orange and green wires should run along the wall of the box and not get near the board or each other.

If you think there is a bad solder joint, ask your friend to check it and fix it if necessary.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
So...here's the cap that doesn't seem soldered properly...
I could fix it myself...
2024-08-06 17.29.26-1.jpg
And here's the full pedal...
I'm assuming those connections to the switch are too long...I can shorten them..
And that ground cable is not soldered well, I'm adjusting it now as we speak...

Thanks again

2024-08-06 17.29.26.jpg
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Ok, found it.
The ground in the mini pcb caused the noise when the gain was maxed.
Now it's gone.
Works pretty good.
Just curious about the gain...is it normal?

Could it be that second diode that is not the one from the docs?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Upvote 0 Downvote
jcpst said:
Sorry this doesn’t answer your direct question. Just coming into this thread to say if you didn’t toss the 3pdt with the upside-down breakout board, you can still use it!

@Feral Feline helped me out with this a while back.
Post in thread 'N00b Question: using a backwards 3PDT daughterboard'
https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/...ackwards-3pdt-daughterboard.22021/post-278712

It worked well for me! Just not as clean looking as the proper orientation.
Click to expand...
Damn, if I had known I could have saved a few bucks!
But no, I didn't toss it...so I could use for some future build...

Thanks a lot for letting me know!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

SweetBerryWine
  • Question
Parenthese Octave no effect and loud hum at full
Replies
11
Views
275
SweetBerryWine
SweetBerryWine
Y
  • Question
Cobbler voltage question
Replies
0
Views
207
Yalesmith
Y
A
  • Question
Help navigating with audio probe
2
Replies
20
Views
676
Feral Feline
Feral Feline
B
Adding Mid Control To Russian Big Muff?
Replies
5
Views
554
jwin615
J
mybud
  • Question
SOLVED Rangefinder (negative ground) problems
Replies
3
Views
205
mybud
mybud
Back
Top