SOLVED HAARP Settings all sound the same

Hexjibber

Well-known member
Hi there,

Got an issue with a HAARP build where switching between the rotary positions doesn’t actually change the arpeggio sequence at all. Well to be precise, positions 1,3,4,5,6,7 & 8 all sound the same and position 2 is different. Any ideas where would be a good place to start troubleshooting this one?

I’ve checked the components against a working build and it all looks ok, I’ve swapped the EEPROM from my working one but that made no difference. Apart from the rotary, everything else is working as expected. I tried reflowing the 1P8T pins but that had no effect. I’ve noticed the voltage regulator getting quite warm so wondering if that’s related? It’s not normally a good thing!

My best guess would be a fault rotary switch but really not sure where to start with this one as I don’t know what is really responsible for selecting between the arpeggiation programs?

Any insight or best places to take readings etc would be much appreciated

BE559C42-A169-41F4-AF90-76E3351DB2AB.jpeg
 
Last edited:
you can check your switch to see if it is creating a connection between the center pin and a different one of the outer pins every time you rotate the pot to a different position.

If the rotary switch is working OK you can check the connections between the switch and the FV-1. If you look at the schematic in the build document you will see that the rotary switch changes the voltage going to the FV-1 by adding in diodes with each setting. that is why there is a row of diodes on the board underneath the rotary switch. you can use your meter to measure the voltage at the FV-1 on pins 16, 17 and 18 to see if the voltage changes on at least 1 of those pins every time you change the setting on the rotary pot.
 
Hi, thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated! So from checking continuity on the switch pins it looks like the switch must be faulty as I only get a successful reading on pins 1 & 2, the rest are dud. Looks like I'll have to order another rotary! 😖 I'm guessing it's more likely to be the switch than the solder connections themselves?
 
Yes I realised that just after I posted it that I'm checking the pins on the switch directly so it must be that. Annoying that I've got a dud, but I suppose these things happen!

Thanks again for the advice and also info around how the switching between the FV-1 and diodes works, that makes sense and will help me debug in future if I still run into problems after a new switch.
 
Turn the rotary switch all the way counter clockwise then use a clip lead or jumper wire to connect the center pin of the rotary to each of the outer rotary pins one at a time and see if the modes change.
 
Back
Top