How to fix the LFO tick in the Sea Horse and Dark Rift

[music6000]

An update to this issue.

I built the new Dark Rift board and had ticking once it was all boxed up (and sold, of course!?️‍). It was only once the rate pot reached its almost extreme which isn’t a big deal to me as I don’t use it like that but could be an issue for the buyer. What I ended up doing was using TL022s in place of the 072s as they are lower current draw and have cured tick in quite a few LFO based builds of mine. I also grounded the footswitch PCB output with a 1M to ground and now it’s just fine and the footswitch pop is a lot more quiet as well.

Try changing the 100k to 10k to Ground @ R15, you can remove the 1M
to ground on the Output after as this usually fixes the pop.

 

[Nostradoomus]

I put it in the mail earlier today, next time!

 

[music6000]

I put it in the mail earlier today, next time!

EQD tends to do this with their Builds & they all vary, My Stockade had 1M to ground at the same spot & Popped like hell.
If you left it for 5 minutes, it went away & with the more times you pushed the Footswitch.
I did what you did with Input & output resistors but it was still bad.
I persisted with Mr PedalPCB & he said try 100K in place of 1M.
It improved a lot but was still a pop.
Tried a 10K and it completely disappeared.
Chongmagic also had the same issue & this fixed it.
It is the Electrolytic before it that causes this.
PedalPCB has since changed the Value!

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

EQD tends to do this with their Builds & they all vary, My Stockade had 1M to ground at the same spot & Popped like hell.
If you left it for 5 minutes, it went away & with the more times you pushed the Footswitch.
I did what you did with Input & output resistors but it was still bad.
I persisted with Mr PedalPCB & he said try 100K in place of 1M.
It improved a lot but was still a pop.
Tried a 10K and it completely disappeared.
Chongmagic also had the same issue & this fixed it.
It is the Electrolytic before it that causes this.
PedalPCB has since changed the Value!

Anti-pop resistors only work if the capacitors to which they're connected don't leak DC. Aluminum electrolytics are leaky and the leakage current varies with temperature. Another reason to use MLCC, film or tantalum.

 

[Nostradoomus]

Yeah my output caps were C0G ceramics so it worked out fine.

 

[Fingolfen]

I'm getting ready to build a couple of Dark Rift Delays - is this fix still needed or has the board been updated?

Also, on the LM324 chip - I don't have any "A" models handy, but I do have an "N" - can't seem to find an "A" - thoughts?