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How to fix the LFO tick in the Sea Horse and Dark Rift

Bobbyd67

Active member
I realize my comment was open to interpretation. I was asking for a look of the modification itself, not the part.

English is not my main language... Sorry.

I can imagine how it will look but sometimes I learn a better way to do stuff by seeing exemples and builds from people here.
I totally understand ! English isn't my first language as well :)
 

Dali

Well-known member
Thanks a lot @K Pedals !

I was right that having a picture would be useful for me. My reflex would have been to use the other side of the PCB and not using some isolation as you did! You're a pro!

Thank you again !!!
 

badpioneer

New member
That did the trick! I had the capacitor soldered in the wrong spot before, but redid it just like in K Pedals' photo above. Tick is gone and the pedal sounds great! Thanks to everyone for their info, and Chuck D Bones for the mod!

Anyone know how hard it would be to make wet/dry know go completely wet? I suppose that might be best in its own topic.
 

Chuck D. Bones

Well-known member
Do you want to do it with a switch? Or do you want the MIX control to be 100% dry at zero and 100% wet at 10? Go ahead and start a new topic.
 

PedalPCB

Administrator
Staff member
I should probably add this to the first post, but...

Any PCB shipped from today (April 2, 2020) and beyond does not require the modification/fix.

The updated PCBs can be identified by the "Rev 1.3" marking on the back. This applies to both the Sea Horse and Dark Rift Delay.
 

bengarland

Active member
Is PedalPCB tracking these types of changes anywhere? I'm always curious if I've built a pedal but missed a fix like this.
 

tommasz

New member
I should probably add this to the first post, but...

Any PCB shipped from today (April 2, 2020) and beyond does not require the modification/fix.

The updated PCBs can be identified by the "Rev 1.3" marking on the back. This applies to both the Sea Horse and Dark Rift Delay.
I have a Rev. 1.3 PCB but it still has the 47nF for C30. Do these instructions still apply? I get some ticking at certain settings.
 

Chuck D. Bones

Well-known member
The value of C30 is not critical. How it's connected on the board is. The previous rev produced ticking at all settings. Specifically, which settings produce ticking on your pedal?
 

tommasz

New member
Screen Shot 2020-05-03 at 3.48.02 PM.png

This is in the version of the build docs I have labeled 04.01.20. I just looked at the version on the site and it shows 10n but is also labled 04.01.20. What other changes are there?
 

PedalPCB

Administrator
Staff member
What about the marking on the actual PCB? You should generally always follow the marking on the PCB unless a value is blacked out on the board.

Aside from relocating that capacitor there were no circuit changes, but some components may have been moved around to better accommodate trace routing after the change.
 

tommasz

New member
The PCB looks like it's marked 10n. Since I have the 1.3 board should I just replace the 47n in C30 with a 10n or should it be soldered between pins 6 and 7 on IC5?
 

Nostradoomus

Well-known member
An update to this issue.

I built the new Dark Rift board and had ticking once it was all boxed up (and sold, of course!🕵️‍♂️). It was only once the rate pot reached its almost extreme which isn’t a big deal to me as I don’t use it like that but could be an issue for the buyer. What I ended up doing was using TL022s in place of the 072s as they are lower current draw and have cured tick in quite a few LFO based builds of mine. I also grounded the footswitch PCB output with a 1M to ground and now it’s just fine and the footswitch pop is a lot more quiet as well.
 
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