SOLVED I’m the worst. Lot lizard

[xxvga]

Ok I had the thread about the Tyrian which I still can’t get working so o tried an easy circuit. Feel like I did everything great.
Looks clean. Followed all your recos from the Tyrian. And I go test it……nothing. Bypass works. Effect. Nothing. Not even a light.

Ahhhhhhhhh. Am I just not made for this?

Lol

 

[comradehoser]

I would check 9V jack connections. They look a bit sus--maybe a bit more solder, although I can't see the back side of the joint. If any offboard wiring connections move in the joint at all, reflow.

Also, since you soldered in the transistors directly rather than socketing, it could also be possible that you fried one of them.

You can do one of three probes in trouble shooting, and I would do these methodically following the schematic:
1. Continuity with continuity/diode mode on multimeter: pedal not plugged in; you are following the schematic to make sure that components are connected where they should be, to each other and to ground verified by beep. Usually I check all ground points first, then inter-component connections.

2. Voltage check: with pedal plugged IN to 9v, and multimeter on v you are seeing if your amplification components are getting the juice to do what they need. Start at 9v jack, 9v in, then at each IC or transistor leg. Post the results here.

3. Audio probe: starting at either end, follow the signal through the schematic and see where it drops out or gets funky. Usually this is a good indication for a troubled component, trace, or poor joint. I've messed up boards before lifting pads and tweaking soldered components (the sabbra cadabra in particular which you said you couldn't make work). You can also use jumpering in conjunction to test if it's that component.

 

[chris.knudson]

Changed the switch. Success. Noisy though but it’s not in a box yet.
Anyway it works. Thanks for giving me ideas and things to work though.

Now I have two other dead ones to fix lol.

Start with the foot switch.

 

[jwin615]

Short burst of soldering with cool down time on those switches.
Glad you got it up and going.

 

[xxvga]

LED polarity correct?

led polarity was correct and in fact i put in a third led. didn't work. it doesn't make sense. the pedal works but the led doesn't

 

[DailyDovetails]

You can test the LEDs outside the pedal with a 9V battery and a 4K7 resistor and see if it lights up. Just run them in series between the positive and ground of the battery or power supply.

 

[xxvga]

You can test the LEDs outside the pedal with a 9V battery and a 4K7 resistor and see if it lights up. Just run them in series between the positive and ground of the battery or power supply.

thanks i will do that. Maybe I got a bad batch from Tayda.

 

[DailyDovetails]

thanks i will do that. Maybe I got a bad batch from Tayda.

If not you can at least narrow it down. I seem to find more LEDs that are duds than anything else but 3 seems like a lot. Maybe check one of the ones you have removed to see if it lights up or is burned out. If the resistor marked
CLR has too little resistance they will burn out almost immediately.

 

[benny_profane]

Also, since you soldered in the transistors directly rather than socketing, it could also be possible that you fried one of them.

Has anyone ever had this happen with Si transistors?

 

[chris.knudson]

Has anyone ever had this happen with Si transistors?

I'm always paranoid about transistors. I used to buy them from Amazon, and I've gotten so may bad/fake ones that I almost never solder them in anymore -- I always socket them. However, I've had a lot of bad luck socketing transistors -- the machined sockets can sometimes grab the legs, but sometimes, you can actually feel how lose the transistor is. Lately, I have taken to testing them in sockets, and then if I'm satisfied that I have a good part, I'll solder it in.

I have lately been buying all of my transistors from Mouser -- if I know it's a good part, I'll just solder it up.

 

[DailyDovetails]

I'm always paranoid about transistors. I used to buy them from Amazon, and I've gotten so may bad/fake ones that I almost never solder them in anymore -- I always socket them. However, I've had a lot of bad luck socketing transistors -- the machined sockets can sometimes grab the legs, but sometimes, you can actually feel how lose the transistor is. Lately, I have taken to testing them in sockets, and then if I'm satisfied that I have a good part, I'll solder it in.

I have lately been buying all of my transistors from Mouser -- if I know it's a good part, I'll just solder it up.

Transistors are pretty much the only thing I solder in without testing which probably is a bad practice. I think I have had 1 maybe 2 that are bad. I think you can build a small circuit and test them on a breadboard but I haven’t done it yet. My meter doesn’t have a tester on it.

 

[chris.knudson]

Transistors are pretty much the only thing I solder in without testing which probably is a bad practice. I think I have had 1 maybe 2 that are bad. I think you can build a small circuit and test them on a breadboard but I haven’t done it yet. My meter doesn’t have a tester on it.

I have a DC-55 that could probably tell me if it's a PNP vs an NPN and stuff like that but in reality, I can't tell a fake from a real one until it doesn't work.

 

[comradehoser]

Transistors are pretty much the only thing I solder in without testing which probably is a bad practice. I think I have had 1 maybe 2 that are bad. I think you can build a small circuit and test them on a breadboard but I haven’t done it yet. My meter doesn’t have a tester on it.

The little made in China transistor tester box with the lever is a good investment

 

[chris.knudson]

thanks i will do that. Maybe I got a bad batch from Tayda.

LEDs are literally the easiest components to test. So long as you have them hooked up in the right direction and you have a CLR in series with them -- they literally light up when they test correctly.

 

[chris.knudson]

The little made in China transistor tester box with the lever is a good investment

Yeah, I have a TC-1 too. I just don't know enough to know what a good reading is for a given part.

 

[DailyDovetails]

The little made in China transistor tester box with the lever is a good investment

I will have to order one soon. Is the TC-1 the model people like?

 

[chris.knudson]

I will have to order one soon. Is the TC-1 the model people like?

It works for what it does. I don't think the TC-1 was too expensive, and I have found it helpful in a lot of situations. I really want to upgrade to a DCA 75 from my DCA 55. I want to be able to match fets, but I don't feel like the 55 is capable of that.

 

[comradehoser]

I will have to order one soon. Is the TC-1 the model people like?

that's the one

 

[xxvga]

Ok the pedal works so well. The led doesn’t but I don’t care. I’m not touching this thing anymore or I’ll fuck it up lol.
Just need to get some black knobs. If anyone wants the photoshop file I can post it.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[DailyDovetails]

Ok the pedal works so well. The led doesn’t but I don’t care. I’m not touching this thing anymore or I’ll fuck it up lol.
Just need to get some black knobs. If anyone wants the photoshop file I can post it.

Thanks for all your help.

Awesome! I have a feeling the next ones will go more smoothly for you.

 

[xxvga]

Awesome! I have a feeling the next ones will go more smoothly for you.

Thanks so much for your help. Have some more to build now.