Matopotato
Active member
@bluedmc777 : how did you drill "bars". Template only has holes and they do not match the bars that well either...
King Nothing Low Volume
- Thread starter bluedmc777
- Start date
At the input 0.1 VAC sine wave 1KHz.
After the j201 : 2 VAC.
After the first triode 18 VAC.
After the second one 30 VAC.
All the potentiometer at 12 o'clock and switches at middle positions.
I tweaked my King nothing so don't worry if you don't find the exact same measurements, but you should be close.
Don't hesitate if you need extra information.
After the j201 : 2 VAC.
After the first triode 18 VAC.
After the second one 30 VAC.
All the potentiometer at 12 o'clock and switches at middle positions.
I tweaked my King nothing so don't worry if you don't find the exact same measurements, but you should be close.
Don't hesitate if you need extra information.
Attachments
Tassieviking
Member
I would not use an ON-OFF-ON DPDT switch on this build, it was made for a DPDT ON-ON-ON switch.
The single SPDT switch is ON-OFF-ON but the DPDT switch should be ON-ON-ON.
The build document specifies a certain switch from Tayda so you could get the switching from that switch document.
Mini Toggle Switch 1M Series DPDT On-On-On Short Lever
DAILYWELL ELECTRONICS - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com
Tassieviking
Member
There are drill templates for the Sushi C2CE PCB's boxes so you can get them machined at Taydas when you order the boxes, many other places will machine your box as well.
C2C Electronics - Tayda Drill Templates
It was requested that I put together some Tayda drill templates for my DIY projects for those that are inclined to use that sort of thing. These have all been verified for fit with the corresponding PCB. Please tag me in any build reports using these. Not because I need them for my records or...
forum.pedalpcb.com
Drill Templates and Artwork Files
Due to the amount of time and logistics required for offering pre-drilled enclosures, I have made the decision that I will not be offering them going forward. I will continue to include drill templ…
c2celectronics.com
If you use the drill template to mark out the holes yourself so you can drill them at home there are some things you should know.
1. All measurements are from the middle of the face, if you draw a cross in the middle of the front of the box you measure from there.
2. Left of center is a minus measurement. ( X axis)
3. Down from center is a minus measurement. (Y axis) (this one confused me to start with)
Just place some masking tape on the front and make a cross and go from there.
Start with the 12mm hole for the stomp switch and go from there, its on the center at the bottom so center is 0 on the X axis and near the bottom is - 48.931mm from the center of the box on the Y axis.
Good luck
Mick
Matopotato
Active member
Thanks for this!I would not use an ON-OFF-ON DPDT switch on this build, it was made for a DPDT ON-ON-ON switch.
The single SPDT switch is ON-OFF-ON but the DPDT switch should be ON-ON-ON.
The build document specifies a certain switch from Tayda so you could get the switching from that switch document.
Mini Toggle Switch 1M Series DPDT On-On-On Short Lever
DAILYWELL ELECTRONICS - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
I followed the Tayda link, and interesting enough they only have one DPDT On-On-On which is the type 2 from my understanding.
They seem to number the lugs
6 3
5 2
4 1
But it is symmetrical so my usual thinking
1 4
2 5
3 6
also show as Type 2
Compared with
Gives me Type 2.
Thanks @Tassieviking !
Matopotato
Active member
Thanks for the drill template @Tassieviking. The one I got from https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AhgdvQF9y32I8An0m1vaOU9VhufoSSim/viewThere are drill templates for the Sushi C2CE PCB's boxes so you can get them machined at Taydas when you order the boxes, many other places will machine your box as well.
There are also basic paint files so Tayda can print the front of the box for youC2C Electronics - Tayda Drill Templates
It was requested that I put together some Tayda drill templates for my DIY projects for those that are inclined to use that sort of thing. These have all been verified for fit with the corresponding PCB. Please tag me in any build reports using these. Not because I need them for my records or...
Drill Templates and Artwork Files
Due to the amount of time and logistics required for offering pre-drilled enclosures, I have made the decision that I will not be offering them going forward. I will continue to include drill templ…
If you use the drill template to mark out the holes yourself so you can drill them at home there are some things you should know.
1. All measurements are from the middle of the face, if you draw a cross in the middle of the front of the box you measure from there.
2. Left of center is a minus measurement. ( X axis)
3. Down from center is a minus measurement. (Y axis) (this one confused me to start with)
Just place some masking tape on the front and make a cross and go from there.
Start with the 12mm hole for the stomp switch and go from there, its on the center at the bottom so center is 0 on the X axis and near the bottom is - 48.931mm from the center of the box on the Y axis.
Good luck
Mick
only gave me a grid of holes.
I drill myself and buy enclosures locally.
Once you have the holes at each end of the 5 "bars", would you use a milling machine? Or just drill holes and the file to perfection?
Thanks
Tassieviking
Member
The drill template is there so you can get the enclosure machined at Tayda or any other machine shop, if I was to do it it home I think I would just pick a nice pattern and drill lots of holes.
The slots and holes are only there so you can see the tube, I don't think they are needed for cooling the tube so they are just decorative as far as I know.
All the drill files and art files are on the link at the C2CE shop, you might have to log in at Tayda to see them.
Tayda is very good with prices and I can save a fair bit using them for most of my shopping for stompboxes, try them out.
EDIT: Tayda has 1 type1 ON-ON-ON DPDT switch, its the blue one for 49cents.
www.taydaelectronics.com
The slots and holes are only there so you can see the tube, I don't think they are needed for cooling the tube so they are just decorative as far as I know.
All the drill files and art files are on the link at the C2CE shop, you might have to log in at Tayda to see them.
Tayda is very good with prices and I can save a fair bit using them for most of my shopping for stompboxes, try them out.
EDIT: Tayda has 1 type1 ON-ON-ON DPDT switch, its the blue one for 49cents.
Search results for: 'ON-ON-ON'
www.taydaelectronics.com
Last edited:
Matopotato
Active member
Thanks.The drill template is there so you can get the enclosure machined at Tayda or any other machine shop, if I was to do it it home I think I would just pick a nice pattern and drill lots of holes.
The slots and holes are only there so you can see the tube, I don't think they are needed for cooling the tube so they are just decorative as far as I know.
All the drill files and art files are on the link at the C2CE shop, you might have to log in at Tayda to see them.
Tayda is very good with prices and I can save a fair bit using them for most of my shopping for stompboxes, try them out.
EDIT: Tayda has 1 type1 ON-ON-ON DPDT switch, its the blue one for 49cents.
Search results for: 'ON-ON-ON'
Yes, I am sure Tayda are a good. I got an enclosure from them a while back. But shipping and customs to Sweden and whatever other fees they imagined made any bargain lose its value. Took over a month as well if I remember. Fast to EU border, but then...
I have a shop in my city with a really good selection of most parts and tools, so I try to support him when I can. More expensive, but I appreciate a shop that stocks caps, resistors, wire, switches, LEDs, bezels, jacks and when l'm lucky the odd IC and transistor.
Still, I think he gets his enclosures from Tayda mostly...
Tassieviking
Member
I think I am lucky in Australia that we don't have too much problems with taxes when we buy from overseas, I am glad that the family moved here when I was a young kid.
I did first strum a guitar in Sweden though when I was young, I think I was about 10 years old when I first started playing.
I did first strum a guitar in Sweden though when I was young, I think I was about 10 years old when I first started playing.
Matopotato
Active member
Can't wrap my head around this...
Please correct me if I am wrong.
The DPDT should be type2. Tayda pinout numbering does not seem to match the pcb and schematic.
It seems that looking ar pcb from component side/most text side would indicate pinout
4 1
5 2
6 3
And combining with schematic I think
UP: 5-6 is ground to nothing and 2-3 R16 to ground, thus shorting R16, but no change to MODE-6
DOWN: 4-5 ground to intersection C10 and R19 (wrong label in my pic sorry) thus shorting R19. 1-2 resulting in nothing.
Remains Type 2 MIDDLE position 5-6 and 1-2 result in no changes to main schematic.
Had it been type1 then both R19 and R16 would be bypassed to ground.
I'd be thankful if someone could confirm my ramblings above and clarify that type 2 is what should be the dpdt on on on.
But if so, and middle does not connect anything, wouldn't an on off on have done the same job?
EDIT: I just realized that my own pinout numbering above and in the picture is "wrong" when I want to compare with Tayda.
So where I write type 1 above, it should be type2. And vice verse
Sorry for this confusion.
See below for conclusion of the DPDT selection.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
The DPDT should be type2. Tayda pinout numbering does not seem to match the pcb and schematic.
It seems that looking ar pcb from component side/most text side would indicate pinout
4 1
5 2
6 3
And combining with schematic I think
UP: 5-6 is ground to nothing and 2-3 R16 to ground, thus shorting R16, but no change to MODE-6
DOWN: 4-5 ground to intersection C10 and R19 (wrong label in my pic sorry) thus shorting R19. 1-2 resulting in nothing.
Remains Type 2 MIDDLE position 5-6 and 1-2 result in no changes to main schematic.
Had it been type1 then both R19 and R16 would be bypassed to ground.
I'd be thankful if someone could confirm my ramblings above and clarify that type 2 is what should be the dpdt on on on.
But if so, and middle does not connect anything, wouldn't an on off on have done the same job?
EDIT: I just realized that my own pinout numbering above and in the picture is "wrong" when I want to compare with Tayda.
So where I write type 1 above, it should be type2. And vice verse
Sorry for this confusion.
See below for conclusion of the DPDT selection.
Attachments
Last edited:
bluedmc777
Active member
This has turned into a very informative thread. I appreciate everyone that has contributed. I’m still on vacation so I’m not able to give any updates. The switch could be an easy culprit to overlook. Greatful for the feedback everyone.
Matopotato
Active member
Thanks, was about to apologize for hogging and derailing your tread...
bluedmc777
Active member
Ok I’m an idiot. Swapped tubes and it freaking RAWKS now! I originally put in a new Tung-Sol that was working fine. I guess I did something to the tube while inserting or just didn’t have good connection because the pedal is night and day difference now. Thanks everyone for the help. Much appreciated.
Matopotato
Active member
Great to hear!
We all know the feeling when a (temporarily) failing build finally kicks into life and sounds as it should!
Reminds me I should get my amp checked...
We all know the feeling when a (temporarily) failing build finally kicks into life and sounds as it should!
Reminds me I should get my amp checked...
bluedmc777
Active member
Yea I’m not usually quick to troubleshoot because I rather be playing than pulling my hair out but new it’d be a quick and easy swap. Not sure if the Tung-Sol just didn’t have a good contact or if it maybe went bad on start up. I’d never had any issues with it being almost brand new. I’m gonna try it in my amp tonight. However I did break one tube in particle accelerato. An older TAD 7025s. Think I was trying to work it into the socket but had to pull it back out and doink…it the tip of enclosure. Didn’t break or release any gas or anything. Just didn’t work anymore.
Matopotato
Active member
I am still stuck with the DPDT on/on/on selection. According to the instructions and Tayda link, the DPDT should work like this (in red):
And by the schematics Position 1 will make R16 bypassed and no impact on R19 (see pictures in my earlier post and full doc in link in even earlier post)
While Position 3 will leave R16 engaged but R19 bypassed.
The middle position from Tayda picture indicate that both R16 and R19 end up bypassed.
(The other variant of DPTD on/on/on would mean both R16 and R19 are engaged)
And I am not sure what the switch is supposed to do in the middle position.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
And by the schematics Position 1 will make R16 bypassed and no impact on R19 (see pictures in my earlier post and full doc in link in even earlier post)
While Position 3 will leave R16 engaged but R19 bypassed.
The middle position from Tayda picture indicate that both R16 and R19 end up bypassed.
(The other variant of DPTD on/on/on would mean both R16 and R19 are engaged)
And I am not sure what the switch is supposed to do in the middle position.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
bluedmc777
Active member
This is a curios one. Over my head on this one.
bluedmc777
Active member
That’s how mine is. Lowest bass content in middle position. Sounds like it atleast.
Matopotato
Active member
Decided to move my specific question to a thread of its own
forum.pedalpcb.com
Asking if anyone can check the pinout of the DPDT. No need to activate, power on etc. Just need to remove the backplate and check continuity for middle position.
Which switch for DPDT King Nothing?
I have a humble request for those who built the King Nothing. I have read schematics, checked Tayda link and asked around to try and understand what type of DPDT swich to use. On/on/on is clear, but it comes in two different topologies: The naming of which one that is "type 1" vs "type 2" is...
forum.pedalpcb.com
