It looks like the PCB changed on the Little Green Scream Machine, but the schematic doesn't match, at least not the clipping diode portion. Am I seeing this right?
It looks like the PCB changed on the Little Green Scream Machine, but the schematic doesn't match, at least not the clipping diode portion. Am I seeing this right?
Yeah, the schematic shows an asymmetrical clipping diode configuration, yet the BOM and PCB do not show a "D3". I've not seen the original "Little Green Scream Machine" PCB or build doc. My best guess is that because clipping diode configurations are so varied, he just left the schematic as it was. Diodes can be 'tented' to get a pair in series for one of the diode slots on the PCB for an asymmetrical configuration to match the schematic. Alternatively, both diodes can be left out and run the anode and cathode of either of the two diodes to a diode switching daughterboard with a rotary switch for selecting different diode clipping configurations.
It looks like the PCB changed on the Little Green Scream Machine, but the schematic doesn't match, at least not the clipping diode portion. Am I seeing this right?
It doesn't need them, they just seem to be more common. There's no problem with using 1/8W.
A couple years ago I started using 1/8W resistors on several of the PCBs and got all sorts of hate mail because of it. ?
I'd much rather see folks use 1/8W resistors on a board designed for 1/4W than the other way around. Standing resistors aren't so bad, but some folks like to smash 1/4W resistors into the board taking out pads and traces in the process.
Not to put too fine a point on it, but it's about the length of the resistor body & the lead diameter, not about power rating.
1/4W will fit, but the lead must be bent at a tighter radius and much closer to the resistor body. If you have to force a part into the board, you're doing it wrong.