Yes, great idea! I just ordered a 5mm led inside a bezel. I might cover the hole. If it doesn't I can fit it with a washer. The bulb even had a built in resistor. I guess that means two fewer soldering points.
Modded Micro POG
- Thread starter Hexjibber
- Start date
didierleclair
New member
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Gut-shot, SVP.
I still don't have one of these, but have mapped out (a number of times/ways) how I think I'd do it (also modded to have the dual-channels) if I ever snag one (I have the 1590A-sized Mooer clone).
johann.guitars
New member
Greetings friend, currently I will modify mine, the manual work will be done by an expert in smartphone boards from my city. (I just need to be clear in telling him what to do).
Question #1: At points 2-5-8 in the schematic they look empty, however in your initial photo I see cables, can you clarify me, What should go there? (I already have all the parts for the mod)
Question #2: On the original, unmodified pedal, point 1 of the potentiometers is naturally already connected to ground? (to know if just hitting a single point in one PCB potentiometer they can go in "chain" with the new added potentiometers)
SORRY IF THESE ARE MAYBE ABSURD QUESTIONS I AM A NOVICE, BUT AN INTELLIGENT GUY.
Thanks!
Question #1: At points 2-5-8 in the schematic they look empty, however in your initial photo I see cables, can you clarify me, What should go there? (I already have all the parts for the mod)
Question #2: On the original, unmodified pedal, point 1 of the potentiometers is naturally already connected to ground? (to know if just hitting a single point in one PCB potentiometer they can go in "chain" with the new added potentiometers)
SORRY IF THESE ARE MAYBE ABSURD QUESTIONS I AM A NOVICE, BUT AN INTELLIGENT GUY.
Thanks!
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Hexjibber
Well-known member
Hi Johann,
Had to refresh my memory a bit on this but to answer your questions;
1) If you check the picture/schematic, the wiring for points 2, 5 & 8 on the switch is listed there;
"Sw2 to Dry Pad 2, Sw5 to Sub Octave Pad 2, Sw8 to Octave Up Pad 2" which is referring to those points on the original board, hope that makes sense.
2) If I understand your question correctly then yes, you can chain the grounds of pin 1 on all of the pots together, then from there, be sure to connect at least one of the pots to either a ground on the PCB, or the DC jack.
Definitely not absurd questions
I found it quite confusing at the time, hope this helps!johann.guitars
New member
I have finally finished making the mod, with the help of a very skilled cell phone technician with soldering tools. Everything works fine without noise, (I spent a total of about 30 dollars on everything parts required + assembly and hole making costs) I used 3 additional, B10K potentiometers, just like the originals of the Nano Pog (B10K). (all parts purchased from AliExpress).Hi Johann,
Had to refresh my memory a bit on this but to answer your questions;
1) If you check the picture/schematic, the wiring for points 2, 5 & 8 on the switch is listed there;
"Sw2 to Dry Pad 2, Sw5 to Sub Octave Pad 2, Sw8 to Octave Up Pad 2" which is referring to those points on the original board, hope that makes sense.
2) If I understand your question correctly then yes, you can chain the grounds of pin 1 on all of the pots together, then from there, be sure to connect at least one of the pots to either a ground on the PCB, or the DC jack.
Definitely not absurd questions
Thanks for your help!
Greetings from Colombia. (IG: @johann.guitars)
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johann.guitars
New member
Friend, I think something was done wrong, today I tried the mod again, and I think the 3 new knobs have no effect, I think my mistake is in the points2, 5 and 8 of the SW, I connected them to pin #2 of each of the original knobs, I don't know if it was from there that I had to take them? I feel that it is redundant in the circuit to connect pin #2 of each original pot to the SW twice, one on one side and the other in the center, I don't know if I misunderstood something, but I think the problem is there.
johann.guitars
New member
What I had done wrong is that I had not detached pin #2 from each original potentiometer on the motherboard. I already fixed it and it works perfectly.
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Zombie post here.
It's still early, so maybe I'm missing something but can anyone explain why doubling of the pots is needed here?
It seems that they're the non selected pot would be out of circuit with lug 3 common and wiper switches.
It would essentially be a resistor with one end connected. If it were in circuit, altering the position of the out of circuit pot would affect the response of the in circuit pot.
Am I missing something?
It seems like they're being used as variable resistors but wired as voltage dividers for some reason.
It's still early, so maybe I'm missing something but can anyone explain why doubling of the pots is needed here?
It seems that they're the non selected pot would be out of circuit with lug 3 common and wiper switches.
It would essentially be a resistor with one end connected. If it were in circuit, altering the position of the out of circuit pot would affect the response of the in circuit pot.
Am I missing something?
It seems like they're being used as variable resistors but wired as voltage dividers for some reason.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I'm a big fan of having a 2nd set of controls, be it volume, gain, blend, depth, rate...
The switch effectively takes whichever pot isn't in use out of the equation, 'lectrons can't run up a dead end.
I'm totally with you on all that and get it, but if you view the original mod documentation for this in the first post, everyone says to double the value of the pots because they are in parallel. But I don't see how they're in parallel cuz you are effectively lifting one end by switching the wiper.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Right, I see what you're saying now.
I'm going to think aloud here...
The grounds are common, we can take that out of the equation, because we're only interested in the amount of resistance between lug 3 and wiper (lug 2)
If the pot is being fed from the board via lug 3 (ie "IN"), then that's what I would switch out, as opposed to the wiper.
Looking at some of the diagrams I've posted, with the wiper common going to the shared output on the board, signal from the active pot looking to swim upstream after hitting the board and finding another path (to the inactive pot) goes upstream but cannot complete the circuit because inactive pot's lug 3 isn't connected...
The same works if the wiper is what's switched. Either way, signal cannot close the circuit.
So I join you in asking "why, indeed, would the pots need to be doubled?"
[EDIT:]
When people double the value of the pots, they're still making a circuit that works, albeit it behaves differently because of the different mod-value of the pots to stock.
Two equal-value resistors in parallel, the value is halved; but the pots aren't of equal value (presumably you don't want to change to the same setting in pot-b as in pot-a). That would take me into online parallel-resistor calculator land to figure out what they're doing, but since the circuit isn't closed on the innactive pot, the point moot if not mute.
Something to play with on the breadboard and see if there's audible differences between two different sized pots, stock and doubled. What the hell, throw it on the oscilloscope, too.
Ahhh but, in my making lug-3 the switched part of the circuit, when the signal swimming upstream on lug 2 gets to the "inactive" pot, some of it IS going to go to GND and complete that side of the circuit even if it can't do anything at lug 3.
So we cannot ignore ground as I first assumed. At least not the way I wanted to swap out lugs (L3).
So back to the wiper...
I shouldn't try this when I haven't slept all night.
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I'm curious if there is audio on the pots or it's just sweeping a 5v circuit up and down for control.
A a lot of those who modded report issues with taper and dead spots(only sweeps to 3 o'clock and whatnot)
I have to wonder if that's due to value doubling and nothing to do with the switch pot mechanics.
I assume the full signal is on the wiper, and if that's switches, the other pot isn't in play aside from basically being an antenna.
Back to the digital 5v part. It's this is sweeping 5v.or 3.3v for digital, it may have a parallel resistance baked into the board to accommodate for pot tollerance variation. I e., it's not sweeping 0-3.3v but actually 1-3v.
If something like that is even remotely true, doubling the pot value could absolutely screw up the response.
I think the anti log pots recommended as replacement for the linear pots may just be trying to hide the fact that the 2x pot is wrong.
I guess I'll have to buy one and find out.
A a lot of those who modded report issues with taper and dead spots(only sweeps to 3 o'clock and whatnot)
I have to wonder if that's due to value doubling and nothing to do with the switch pot mechanics.
I assume the full signal is on the wiper, and if that's switches, the other pot isn't in play aside from basically being an antenna.
Back to the digital 5v part. It's this is sweeping 5v.or 3.3v for digital, it may have a parallel resistance baked into the board to accommodate for pot tollerance variation. I e., it's not sweeping 0-3.3v but actually 1-3v.
If something like that is even remotely true, doubling the pot value could absolutely screw up the response.
I think the anti log pots recommended as replacement for the linear pots may just be trying to hide the fact that the 2x pot is wrong.
I guess I'll have to buy one and find out.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Micro or Nano?...
I guess I'll have to buy one and find out.
Toggle on the Nano — I don't see the point of the Nano having an extra footswitch, if I used just my pinky toe I'd still be stepping on both stompers.
