Not Just a Phase - PedalPCB Duo-Phase

Fingolfen

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
Guess who has some time off for the holiday???? :D

Here's one I've been working on for a while but finally got done (with major help from Steggi in her holiday finest) - the PedalPCB Duo-Phase.

PedalPCB Duo Phase - Pteronodon Paraphaser - 01.jpg

The first part of this build was straightforward, if involved, as I was just populating the PCB. The Duo-Phase has two copies of the same circuit on the board - with few extra components in the middle. The biggest challenge is the sheer volume of components - nearly 100 resistors, almost 40 capacitors, and 15 integrated circuits! Although this is a vintage pedal, I stuck with newer components, so the resistors are all 1% metal film 1/4W (mostly Yageo), the film capacitors are a mix of Kemet and Panasonic, and the ICs are all new production TL072IP and TC1044SCPA - all of which are socketed. The biggest challenge comes in building the six stage optical phasor circuits. Unlike my previous multi-stage optical phasor build (the AionFX Quadratron clone of the Lovetone Doppelganger) which has four separate depth/rate LEDs, each side of the Bi-Phase has six stages coming off of one depth/rate LED. That means you have to carefully position six LDRs (light dependent resistors) around each LED. It also means you pretty much have to test the pedal while it is enclosed or in a very dark room!

Once the PCB was populated, I decided to modify my build process a bit for the jacks as this pedal has an option that I'd never used before. My previous combo pedal build (a Lovetone Cheese Source clone) uses a single set of input / output jacks because I decided to incorporate an order reverser. One version of this pedal just uses a single input and single output jack, but there is the option to have the pedal split. In other words, both "sides" have their own input and output jacks. It did, however, require my sourcing the correct switched input jack so I could use the pedal in single in / single out configuration without having to run a patch cable from one side to another. Since this was my first time using that particular 1/4" jack, I went ahead and built up the jacks, tested them, and then attached their ground wires to the PCB. The upshot of this order of operations is I'm able to shorten the ground connections from the jacks to the board, so I may start doing this on any pedal where I'm actually grounding the jacks to the board (as opposed to a star ground on the input).

PedalPCB Duo Phase - Pteronodon Paraphaser - 02.jpg

I ran the input / output wires to the ends of the enclosure. Some modulation pedals tend to pick up noise from op-amps or the modulation circuitry, and I wanted to make sure the signal coming out of the unit was as clean as possible. Because I'd pre-wired the jacks, I was able to minimize the lengths of the wires while still being able to wrap all of the connections in heat shrink tubing. The end result being perhaps one of my cleanest wiring jobs ever.

PedalPCB Duo Phase - Pteronodon Paraphaser - 03.jpg

For the enclosure, I decided to draw inspiration from Leonardo da Vinci - so instead of Steampunk, I sort of have "Da Vinci-punk." The text all uses a font that emulates da Vinci's handwriting. One side mirrors the other, and I decided to throw in that detail because da Vinci himself actually always wrote backwards.

The trimmer pots on the PCB are there to help you adjust the brightness at full on and dimness at full off on the LEDs. It didn't take much tweaking to get them dialed in, and once I had the enclosure suitably dark the sound of the pedal is absolutely amazing. The only drawback I see is the pedal is a bit large, but I'm sure it will see use on my board as the dual in/out jacks provide a lot of flexibility.

My build rating on this is an enthusiastic five stars. The only curveball in assembly was I used 470nF film capacitors which needed a little more space, but as they were all among resistors, it was trivial to raise them to a point to easily fit in the enclosure. Everything is nicely lined up which makes soldering all of the components easier, and the SOUND of the completed unit is nothing short of amazing.

A bit more at the blog (mostly preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2022/12/not-just-phase-mu-tron-bi-phase-clone.html

Edit - Update - I did end up moving to move the B side wires to the middle of the enclosure as I did have a slight LFO tick that wasn't noticeable until I cranked up a compressor pedal downstream of it. Fortunately it served as a good diagnostic tool and now there's absolutely zero tick! :D
 
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I built this recently as well. Really felt like an accomplishment when she fired up. I had a small issue with my wire routing as I was getting some lfo tick, easy fix. Build looks awesome, always look forward to see your enclosure graphics.
 
I built this recently as well. Really felt like an accomplishment when she fired up. I had a small issue with my wire routing as I was getting some lfo tick, easy fix. Build looks awesome, always look forward to see your enclosure graphics.
It's definitely a marathon, not a sprint. When I first fired it up it was more trem than phase, but after tweaking the trim pots and making sure the enclosure was completely dark (I hadn't installed the DC jack and was running on a alligator clip connector) - it smoothed out perfectly.
 
It's definitely a marathon, not a sprint. When I first fired it up it was more trem than phase, but after tweaking the trim pots and making sure the enclosure was completely dark (I hadn't installed the DC jack and was running on a alligator clip connector) - it smoothed out perfectly.
I had that issue with a clone of eqd the depths once. Just tremolo. It was my Ldr choice in that situation.
 
Which LDR did you end up using? The Depths is quickly rising to the top of my queue.
I ended up doing something super weird. I used a gl5528 with a 330k resistor across the legs. I don’t think I’d recommend this the tayda one that is 10-20k with the 500k dark is supposed to be pretty good. And this was a bit of a pain in the ass and for sure doesn’t look pretty. My understanding is pretty much get the 10-20k range and 500kish is great. I love the way mine sounds and there’s a few other options out there with similar stats around 300k dark resistance with the 10-20k light. The idea of the resistor in parallel is to not let the dark resistance go above that value.

And I really recommend it. I did mine on strip board but I’d buy the pcb if I was to do it again. I had a few weird issues that I solved by adding an offset trimmer etc. But was way more involved than it should’ve been.
 
Hi,
What voltage do you use? I experience some noise (affected by LFO) with a 9 V DC adapter. When I plug in 12 V the noise is gone.
Do you experience something similar?
 
Hi,
What voltage do you use? I experience some noise (affected by LFO) with a 9 V DC adapter. When I plug in 12 V the noise is gone.
Do you experience something similar?
I'm using 9V, but I don't have any noise once I moved the input/output lines away from the LFO on the one side. I'd try 1) a different 9V source and 2) checking where your lines are running relative to the LFO in the enclosure.
 
I'm using 9V, but I don't have any noise once I moved the input/output lines away from the LFO on the one side. I'd try 1) a different 9V source and 2) checking where your lines are running relative to the LFO in the enclosure.
I too had the lfo noise due to the input wire. @BGroen do you hear it in bypass as well? That’s what tipped me off as it being the input wire.
 
Hi @Fingolfen and @Locrian99 . Thanks.
There is no noise in by-pass. So not the wires, they are running on the outers sides of the enclosure underneath the PCB.

I do notice a difference with different power supplies. Maybe that's just it.
 
Love the choice of Knobs here. It’s just ties everything together. Do you hand draw these and then have them UV printed, or is it something else like sticker paper?
 
Love the choice of Knobs here. It’s just ties everything together. Do you hand draw these and then have them UV printed, or is it something else like sticker paper?
This one is a mix of licensed art heavily edited and worked up in Illustrator and then UV printed by Tayda.

For example, the Pteranodon started out looking like this:

stock-vector-the-steampunk-of-pteranodon-esport-logo-design-of-illustration-2028969689.jpg


I edited it in Illustrator to make it look more wood, leather, brass, etc. and then combined it with a parchment background and some other licensed Leonardo designs.
 
Well damn, all these really cool Tayda UV prints are going to finally force me to Learn how to format it the way they want. It looks great.
This one is a mix of licensed art heavily edited and worked up in Illustrator and then UV printed by Tayda.

For example, the Pteranodon started out looking like this:

stock-vector-the-steampunk-of-pteranodon-esport-logo-design-of-illustration-2028969689.jpg


I edited it in Illustrator to make it look more wood, leather, brass, etc. and then combined
 
Hi @Fingolfen and @Locrian99 . Thanks.
There is no noise in by-pass. So not the wires, they are running on the outers sides of the enclosure underneath the PCB.

I do notice a difference with different power supplies. Maybe that's just it.
@BGroen outside edge of the enclosure runs the input wire right under the lfo where I had the issue. 6591703F-73A0-4684-9303-EA340BD69CA3.jpeg
See that white wire on the top. Running under the pcb on the edge that was causing the problem. If you have a wire in the same area I bet that is the issue. I didn’t take a picture but I actually moved mine to the top of the board and ran it if I remember right so it goes kind of between the two trim pots on the far side of that transistor problem instantly solved. If you wire is running along the out edge it’s going past the lfo.
 
I have placed the wires away from the LFO and altough relatively quiet now, it still is more quiet using a 12 V adapter. So I will keep using the 12 V adapter. If anyone else experiences the same, the only adaption I needed to do is to replace the 4k7 resistor in front of the indicator LED for a 10k resistor, becaus the indicator LED's were a little bright.
 
Sorry to revive this thread: I thought the bottom switch top position was phase-reversed and the bottom one in phase?
 
Sorry to revive this thread: I thought the bottom switch top position was phase-reversed and the bottom one in phase?
I also would like to know and honestly this info should be included on the PCB or the build docs.
Same thing with the Caesar. Is the sine wave top or bottom? And so on for many other circuits.
 
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