Parenthesis Fuzz, Rat side not working

alan441

New member
So I just finished my Parenthesis fuzz but only the boost side is working atm. and the octave sounds very subtle. when I click the other side all I get is a hum that seems to be adjusted by the distortion control.

I'm using the first run board so I heard there might be some errors? I wasn't sure if just d6 was reversed or all of the diodes. If any of you dudes have a chance to check out these photos to see if you see any obvious issues that would be awesome! im excited to get this up and running.

Thanks again!

Frankie a.

Ps. forgot to mention that the bypass works fine. also that d6 and toggle octave led dont illuminate, but the bypass and boost ones work normally.
 

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Last edited:
My apologies guys, this is entirely my fault. ?


Move the left end of that jumper wire over one pad so it looks like this:
Parentheses.png

If you want the octave LED to light you'll also need to jump the two pads on the right.
 
My apologies guys, this is entirely my fault. ?


Move the left end of that jumper wire over one pad so it looks like this:
View attachment 1252

If you want the octave LED to light you'll also need to jump the two pads on the right.
Thats brought signal through, but i find the gain gets pretty low with the octave cranked and i can barely hear an octave. Even on neck pup with tone rolled off.
 
Weird, mine was working just fine when I first built it but then the same issues arose (rat side not working, weird octave, boost ok). Why do I have 6 more hours in my work day... and want to go home and see! Haha
 
Thats brought signal through, but i find the gain gets pretty low with the octave cranked and i can barely hear an octave. Even on neck pup with tone rolled off.

Sounds like your octave circuit doesn't have much output. With the octave control at max the majority of the signal is coming through the octave path.

I'll have the schematic posted shortly so you can get it worked out.
 
My apologies guys, this is entirely my fault. ?


Move the left end of that jumper wire over one pad so it looks like this:
View attachment 1252

If you want the octave LED to light you'll also need to jump the two pads on the right.


Sweet!! No trouble, thanks for the quick response!
I'll update when I get it running.

Nostradoomus, good luck on that etching! I'm gonna give that a shot in a few weekends
 
Thanks...I’m going to try and use Gustavo Dore’s The Empyrean so I’ll have to be on my etching game with that much detail :D


On a side note, the octave seems to ring out best at about 15% on the pot...after that it’s just more of a gainy texture.
 
I used D9E in mine.

The only issue with diode orientation was the silkscreen on the clipping LED. The pads were correct, the A and K were just on the wrong sides.
If you installed the Anode into the round pad you're good to go.

I've mentioned this before, but in the original the octave diodes might have been installed backwards... I'm not sure whether this was intentional or an accident. The bands on the diodes lined up with the silkscreen on the board but since they were germanium the band was actually on the Anode, not the Cathode. (This was confirmed out of circuit)

This oriented the diodes backwards compared to the original Green Ringer circuit.
 
Right, i want to confirm-
1n60p not good. Changed to 1n34a and it bloomed alive like a doomy kitten jumping into life.
Those with octave issues may want to tend to the germanium if there are issues. D9e and 1n34a both workin. Dont use 1n60p.
 
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