Please recommend a black 3PDT + dress nut (that fits)

[jessenator]

I recently made an order from [redacted vendor] where they sold (separately) a black finished 3PDT switch and subdued, discrete footprint dress nuts. I bought them thinking, well this is nickel'n'diming me a bit, but I want this build to look nice. Get it delivered and it does not seat properly on the black 3PDT. Other switches the fit is just fine, as pictured. Also, regular nuts from any of the switches I have are interchangeable (i.e. the black regular nut and chrome nuts and switches will all work with each other, just this black dress nut doesn't want to fit the black switch), so I really don't know where the thread pitch is a mismatch.

I've sent them an email about it, so that's not the topic, but what I would like is a a suggestion for matching switch + dress nut that will actually fit together. And I'm really looking for a smaller footprint dress nut, not the big ol' arcade button bezel lookin things (at least not for this build).



Many thanks

 

[finebyfine]

I recently made an order from [redacted vendor] where they sold (separately) a black finished 3PDT switch and subdued, discrete footprint dress nuts. I bought them thinking, well this is nickel'n'diming me a bit, but I want this build to look nice. Get it delivered and it does not seat properly on the black 3PDT. Other switches the fit is just fine, as pictured. Also, regular nuts from any of the switches I have are interchangeable (i.e. the black regular nut and chrome nuts and switches will all work with each other, just this black dress nut doesn't want to fit the black switch), so I really don't know where the thread pitch is a mismatch.

I've sent them an email about it, so that's not the topic, but what I would like is a a suggestion for matching switch + dress nut that will actually fit together. And I'm really looking for a smaller footprint dress nut, not the big ol' arcade button bezel lookin things (at least not for this build).

View attachment 63122

Many thanks

Which one is the arcade button one? Does that include both dress nuts at LMS?

 

[jessenator]

Which one is the arcade button one? Does that include both dress nuts at LMS?

These: I'm not trying to be an askhole, but ones like these protrude too far outside the regular nut footprint—at least on the original destination, the unoriginal gangster.

Dress Nut for Foot Switches

Dress up your finished pedal or project for a super-polished look. Our dress nut for foot switches covers the mounting nut for most standard foot switches.

lovemyswitches.com

The reason I went with the one in op was its size.

I did get in touch with the vendor. They actually thanked me for bringing it to their attention, because it looks like their supplier changed the thread tolerances or something.

 

[finebyfine]

I totally agree with you about the footprint of those too, only real reason I don’t use them

 

[Feral Feline]

Sub 'd.
I need what the OP needs.

 

[Erik S]

I like the look of that nut!

My guess is those switches are standard dimension with a coating applied and the thickness of the coating is coming into play here. There would be enough slop in a standard hardware grade nut, but those dress nuts are machined for a closer fit.

The data sheet for the ones I get from Tayda say the thread is m12 X 0.75 thread. It’s possible you could solve your problem by getting a tap and running it through your nut, but I suspect the nut is already close to on-size. You could almost certainly run a die over the switch threads and be in business, but that would take the black off and look terrible.

Not a big market for sloppy dress nuts unfortunately.

 

[eh là bas ma]

I just saw @Nic 's new build report with some footswitches that could suit your needs :

AionFx Lab Series L4 Bass Preamp

I must say, that board was the most intimidating I have ever bought. It's a fact, some people here dont like AionFx daughter board concept and I do not wish to start that debate again. To me it's never been a problem and I'll deal with it if I ever need to. My greatest fears was having to...

forum.pedalpcb.com

Is that what you are looking for ?

 

[Nic]

I just saw @Nic 's new build report with some footswitches that could suit your needs :

AionFx Lab Series L4 Bass Preamp

I must say, that board was the most intimidating I have ever bought. It's a fact, some people here dont like AionFx daughter board concept and I do not wish to start that debate again. To me it's never been a problem and I'll deal with it if I ever need to. My greatest fears was having to...

forum.pedalpcb.com

Is that what you are looking for ?

Those are the basic tayda ones. They have a really soft clic.

 

[jessenator]

You could almost certainly run a die over the switch threads and be in business, but that would take the black off and look terrible.

Yeah that's definitely a good solution for a better fit. I'd also be fine with tapping the nut a bit more, like you mentioned. But knowing me, I'd muck up the where the thread stops so it seats flush on the switch.

Tapping would be the least noticable as well. At any rate I'd be fine experimenting on this combo I've got. Since the reseller did refund me, I'd feel dishonest actually using it in a build that's going to someone/making any sort of money. If it does work, and I don't screw up, it might be viable to just get others and finesse the machining.

Those are the basic tayda ones. They have a really soft clic.

Just looked again on Tayda and I'm betting it's from the same manufacturer. Like you said, very soft click, black case, black epoxy, same clip arrangement.

 

[jwin615]

Yeah that's definitely a good solution for a better fit. I'd also be fine with tapping the nut a bit more, like you mentioned. But knowing me, I'd muck up the where the thread stops so it seats flush on the switch.

Tapping would be the least noticable as well. At any rate I'd be fine experimenting on this combo I've got. Since the reseller did refund me, I'd feel dishonest actually using it in a build that's going to someone/making any sort of money. If it does work, and I don't screw up, it might be viable to just get others and finesse the machining.



Just looked again on Tayda and I'm betting it's from the same manufacturer. Like you said, very soft click, black case, black epoxy, same clip arrangement.

If you go with black taydas, I'll add those are the last switches I borked in soldering. Was on a breakout board and one pole failed. The second one I ordered worked fine.
So move quick and pace it out plenty. Don't feel I rushed the first one...
My tip was at the end of its usable lifespan though.

 

[jessenator]

switches I borked in soldering.

Bogus epoxy? I feel like that was omnipresent a decade ago. Hope it's not making a comeback

 

[jwin615]

Bogus epoxy? I feel like that was omnipresent a decade ago. Hope it's not making a comeback

Maybe just soft plastic rockers?
They are very soft, not in a gorva kinda way. Kinda sloppy.

You could try Niblack 40 if the footswitch is stainless. IDK if theyre typically stainless or chromed or something else.
I've never used it myself.
Have soaked a number of carbon steel tools in high % vinegar to get a nice black oxide coating though.
There are a handful of aluminum blackeners out there as well. But I don't the most 3pdt are Al...

 

[Nic]

If you go with black taydas, I'll add those are the last switches I borked in soldering. Was on a breakout board and one pole failed. The second one I ordered worked fine.
So move quick and pace it out plenty. Don't feel I rushed the first one...
My tip was at the end of its usable lifespan though.

I've used those at least 4 times lately and never had any trouble.
I always solder one lug at a time and go solder a pot to let it cool down a little. I also start in the center, then do 4 corners, then the remaining.

 

[Fama]

I've used those at least 4 times lately and never had any trouble.
I always solder one lug at a time and go solder a pot to let it cool down a little. I also start in the center, then do 4 corners, then the remaining.

I've used a lot of them too (the basic, cheap Tayda ones, soft click and fully black with a normal small nut, just black) and never have any trouble. I don't usually intentionally pace myself, but I often do the two resistor leg hooks in the bottom first and maybe the two topmost ones, so four lugs from three different poles on the first pass, then probably another four poles next, then just the top left one last. So maybe that helps.