SOLVED Pre-fix questions (Aion Proxima)

[Noodles]

At the risk of outing myself as a bigger dummy than my previous post...

So, let's assume you are working on your first pedal, the Aion Proxima, and, in the midst of a massive brain fart, you wire the DC jack backwards...oops. Possibly luckily, you are just testing the LED and the spidey senses start tingling pretty quickly. Hmm, weird, the battery is pretty hot. Ohhhhhh.... Nothing else is visually torched.

Redo the jack. LED turns on, but seems dimmer than it should. Engaged, the only thing that seems to work is the clean volume.

Probing around with the DMM exposes continuity on C13 and R17 and R18 both reading less than 10K (one is about 0K and the other about 5K).


Can I assume that D1, C14, and C12 are likely toasted as well?

The other obvious anomaly is R3 which is also reading less than 10K (~5K).


Voltages on Q1 are:
D = 9V
S = 1.2V
G = 0V

Full schematic here: https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/proxima_documentation.pdf (P6)

Basically, I'm trying to understand and figure out if I should just replace the obviously damaged parts, the obviously+likely damaged parts, or start over with a new PCB (facetious....worst case, this is probably a good chance to learn more troubleshooting skills). All values double-checked visually. First 10 or 11 resistors checked with DMM.

Appreciate any/all thoughts.

 

[jimilee]

At the risk of outing myself as a bigger dummy than my previous post...

So, let's assume you are working on your first pedal, the Aion Proxima, and, in the midst of a massive brain fart, you wire the DC jack backwards...oops. Possibly luckily, you are just testing the LED and the spidey senses start tingling pretty quickly. Hmm, weird, the battery is pretty hot. Ohhhhhh.... Nothing else is visually torched.

Redo the jack. LED turns on, but seems dimmer than it should. Engaged, the only thing that seems to work is the clean volume.

Probing around with the DMM exposes continuity on C13 and R17 and R18 both reading less than 10K (one is about 0K and the other about 5K).

View attachment 72607
Can I assume that D1, C14, and C12 are likely toasted as well?

The other obvious anomaly is R3 which is also reading less than 10K (~5K).

View attachment 72610
Voltages on Q1 are:
D = 9V
S = 1.2V
G = 0V

Full schematic here: https://aionfx.com/app/files/docs/proxima_documentation.pdf (P6)

Basically, I'm trying to understand and figure out if I should just replace the obviously damaged parts, the obviously+likely damaged parts, or start over with a new PCB (facetious....worst case, this is probably a good chance to learn more troubleshooting skills). All values double-checked visually. First 10 or 11 resistors checked with DMM.

Appreciate any/all thoughts.

Naaa, you don’t toast any film caps. Check for solder bridges and see what your voltage is on your diode. The diode is supposed to assist with things like this.

 

[jwin615]

D1 hopefully sacrificed itself for the tribe, if anything.
R18 is parallel to C13 so it's going to read little to no resistance unless you lift one side.
R17 is likely in parallel to other components in the circuit that rest between VA and VB, so that reading will be screwed unless, again, you lift one side.
You can't always trust in circuit measurements, continuity or resistance, without considering the entire circuit. Have to consider parallel circuitry.
Check your diode on your diode setting, replace if needed and boot it up.
Also, resistors rarely have an issue with reverse polarity. It's usually diodes and polarized caps you have to worry about.

 

[Noodles]

On the diode setting, I get .212V one way and OL the other.

 

[jwin615]

that sounds spent but schottky diodes can be difficult for some multimeters to measure properly.
If you have another 5817 to measure, I'd see if you get the same measurement
If it's different, pull and replace.
About to board a plane so hopefully others will step in and help if needed
Edit, speech to text fix

 

[Noodles]

I have two more from that batch. They all measure about the same.

 

[jimilee]

I have two more from that batch. They all measure about the same.

Are you getting voltage on both sides of the installed diode?

 

[Noodles]

Correct.

9.36V on one side, 9.08V on the other.

 

[jwin615]

Plug it in to the correct power. See what happens.
It won't burn down the house.

 

[Noodles]

Plug it in to the correct power. See what happens.
It won't burn down the house.

I did. I get Clean Volume side to work, nothing else. I need to replace C13 first and then see. I get continuity between the leads of C13.

 

[music6000]

When Continuity testing, you should have the power to the Circuit disconnected or yo will get a false reading.
Also make sure your pots are somewhere in the middle as when fully clockwise or anti clockwise will give false readings!

 

[Noodles]

When Continuity testing, you should have the power to the Circuit disconnected or yo will get a false reading.
Also make sure your pots are somewhere in the middle as when fully clockwise or anti clockwise will give false readings!

Double checked. Still continuity on C13. I’ll replace it and report back.

 

[Noodles]

C13 replaced. Still get continuity across the leads . My voltage is not dividing correctly (Vb not 4.54V), so I'll go back to R17 and R18 to see if I can get them straightened out. Pin 1 and 4 on both ICs read correctly (9.08V and 0V). Pin 2 and 3 on IC1A operate correctly (pin 3 V 1/2 of pin 2). All the other voltages are incorrect.

 

[music6000]

I would look for solder bridges on the back of the Board on both IC's that are connected to C13 , you should have checked for Continuity across C13 before replacing it!

 

[airbud]

Can we get some pics of the soldering? Might be something a different pair of eyes could spot quickly.

 

[Noodles]

Can we get some pics of the soldering? Might be something a different pair of eyes could spot quickly.

Yes....funny was just about to post.

Voltages:

IC1
1 - 9.08
2 - 7.18
3 - 3.45
4 - 0
5 - 0
6 - 1.06
7 - 2.51
8 - 2.62

IC2
1 - 9.08
2 - 8.56
3 - 8.54
4 - 0
5 - 0
6 - 0
7 - 8.56
8 - 8.56

Q1
D - 9.08
S - 1.26
G - 0

Pics (weird looking components were mistakes or tried replacing to resolve issues):

 

[music6000]

I'm trying to work out where R17-10K is connected???
The Pictures are too small that you sent, can't make out the resistor values or solder pads.

 

[music6000]

You need to bend those 2 pots up so we can see the solder pads underneath.
Does the junction pad of R17 & R18 go to Ground with Continuity Test?

 

[Noodles]

I’ll add larger ones And bend the pots. I swapped a new 10K for R17 and my desoldering methods needs refining. I figured it might be the problem since the voltages go from 9.08 to 0 across R17 (still do after swapping). Anyway, the leads are connected to the pads…poorly, but connected.

The side of R18 not directly connected to R17 goes to ground confirmed by continuity.

 

[Noodles]