re-tinning a pre-tinned tip

jessenator

Well-known member
Just want to make sure I don't screw up my new investment, and future ones.

My Hakko tips come pre-tinned for lead-free soldering, or so the packaging says. I've got new 63/37 wire and matching tinning paste. Do I just straight up stick it in the gray stuff or do I need to do anything to the pre-tinned tip before that?
 
I only use the tinning paste down the road.
When I've left it dry or plugged through a plastic bag and scrubbed it or it generally isn't taking solder well.
New tip: heat it up. Glob as much solder as you can on it. Clean. Go.
Hakko is playing that tip with better stuff that what's in that tub.
 
Couldn’t help you with mixing lead free and leaded, although my gut wants to say that shouldn’t make a difference. I always make sure I leave a big blob of solder on the tip whenever it’s sitting around for more than a few minutes, and always before I turn it off. I pretty much avoid lead free, but I do like to lead an exciting life.

I’ve only used those little tins of tinning paste when I’ve had a tip that gotten screwed up, and they generally look close to new after a dip and wipe. Good stuff.
 
Man, now I want to have a stern talking to with the person who told me to clean the tip completely after every session! This is several times (having tried to search about tip tinning specifically) I've seen that you should leave a blob to protect the tip.

I use the Hakko's built-in sleep function, so hopefully that's enough between soldering bouts.
 
You leave a blob for electronics soldering irons, unless you are using something with caustic flux like a plumber or stickman.
It's just to prevent oxidation of the tip, which probably doesn't matter in Utah.
 
Ditto the blob. I go through very few tips, honestly cannot recall last one I had to throw away.

I've never had any problem using leaded on a lead-free tip. As @jwin615 said I think they are just ROHS compliant. I don't use lead free so can't say if it's a problem with a leaded tip. Guess that makes me ROHS non-compliant.
 
Usually a bit of new solder and wipe on heatup and it’s good to go.

Weller tip activator works wonders when the iron has too much oxidation or impurities to clean normally. This is basically an agressive fllux solder. Stick the hot soldering iron in it, take it out and leave it bubbling untill it’s finished bubbling completely. Wipe and it’s now silver tipped, if not just repeat or repeat to increase thickness of the plating.

I use mg chemicals SAC305 lead free solder, I’ll dig out the precise product tomorrow. I know people find lead free more difficult but if you’re cleaning the solder points heating up the metal of the parts and then wipe adter with a qtip and iso, the results are pretty good.
I do know why people love the pb 70/30 but I’m used to this pb free solder now.

Edit:
I'd advise against any bismuth (Bi) blends due to the fragility of the solder joint given foot pedals are knocked around. Here's the all the stuff I use:
MG Chemicals #4900-454G SAC305 Sn96.2Ag2.8Cu0.4 (96.2/2.8/0.4) 21 gauge wire
MG Chemicals #837P Flux pen (it has a fibreglass tip for scrubbing clean too. Then heat the solder point and the flux cleans.
Chip Quik TS3915SNL Solder paste Sn96.5/Ag3.0/Cu0.5 T4 for SMT/Small pad THT
Weller Tip Activator - works fine for both leaded and lead-free and I normally do a couple of dunks.

Only reason I use the silver blended older is to prevent any silver (Ag) corrosion for any wiring if it has silver in it. Normal solder will attempt to absorb the silver from wire over time. The MG solder is decent but needs the parts hot to properly solder and takes a higher temperature and there is a little learning curve for lead free solder. The ChipQuik paste is really nice, works well for soldering SMT with a normal iron.
For desoldering - braid and a a draper metal solder sucker.
Lastly the finished joints don't get left uncleaned, although water works technically, 99.9% isopropyl alcohol works better with a qtip to rub, leaving the joints sparkly and the boards clean.

There is life after lead..
 
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