DEMO rosamp SLO-100

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Awesome build ! My Footswitch I already build for my Rosamp SLO is done and looks nearly the same like yours!
I ordered my SLO 30 some days ago, can you tell me how fast Rosamp is with shipping?
How many days have you waiting from ordering to shipping from rosamp to the arrival on your door?
Best regards from Germany.
Till
 
Awesome build ! My Footswitch I already build for my Rosamp SLO is done and looks nearly the same like yours!
I ordered my SLO 30 some days ago, can you tell me how fast Rosamp is with shipping?
How many days have you waiting from ordering to shipping from rosamp to the arrival on your door?
Best regards from Germany.
Till
cheers 🤙🏻
the kits come from italy, and given you’re in germany, i doubt you’ll be waiting as long as i did (about 22 days or so to australia, i didn’t mind though)
 
first go at trying out one of these plastic Fresnel lens type LED holders.
they’re alright, they look excellent, but boy howdy if I hadn’t drilled and filed the hole as tight and flush as I did, I dunno how well they'd stay in...

Turns out those lenses are designed to be used with a retainer ring. Tayda sells them, but the price is dumb. I've been making do with slices off the end of a piece of 3/8" tubing.

 
I imagine tubing in Oz is probably metric... The 3/8 inch stuff I had on hand has an ID of .250 inch so it works great.

6mm would probably work too.


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cheers 🤙🏻
the kits come from italy, and given you’re in germany, i doubt you’ll be waiting as long as i did (about 22 days or so to australia, i didn’t mind though)
Thanks for your fast answer ! Do you have in mind how many days it took when Rosamp ships the kit, after you ordered it? Was it like one day or two or three ?
 
Turns out those lenses are designed to be used with a retainer ring. Tayda sells them, but the price is dumb. I've been making do with slices off the end of a piece of 3/8" tubing.
ohhh right, i had no idea.
many thanks for the tip!
reckon i might even have some tubing lying around somewhere 🤞🏻hope it’s 6mm haha

Thanks for your fast answer ! Do you have in mind how many days it took when Rosamp ships the kit, after you ordered it? Was it like one day or two or three ?
it took at least a week to ship after purchase.
 
update / story time:
unfortunately rosamp nominated neutrik plastic cliff-style jacks for input and fx loop in this kit.. (not what i would choose)

so to help me rest at ease, I decided to go with a trusty switchcraft 12A for the input, and told myself that I probably wouldn't use the FX loop much anyway, so left those as is.

but then i actually started using the FX loop… 🥴 (it’s actually pretty good, not sure what the noise about the og loop being inferior is all about)
nek minut - switchcraft jacks ordered.

been on annual leave from work, parts turned up yesterday, and I guess since it's still out of a head shell, I had no excuses to delay.

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during the meddling, the shield snapped off the return cable, had to completely redo it, which was probably for the best, cos i did a better job of splicing it this time. i’ll call that a bonus.

extra bonus P90 content:
a friend just recently lent me his gibson les paul 60s tribute to try out.
i’ve never played a gibson or P90 pickups before.
so I gave it a fair shake through ALL of the gain levels :cool: and holy crap does it hum, noise gate is not optional. fantastic guitar though.

 
I've seen pics or Soldanos which have that style of wiring the power tubes and I'm amazed it doesn't cause noise. But obviously it doesn't otherwise Soldano wouldn't do it that way.
For heater wire, the main thing is to keep the pairs parallel. Twisting is a simple way to do this, but uses more wire. Straight parallel wire like the Soldano looks better in my opinion.
 
For heater wire, the main thing is to keep the pairs parallel. Twisting is a simple way to do this, but uses more wire. Straight parallel wire like the Soldano looks better in my opinion.
The original SLO wiring was a work of art- not an easy task for a PCB amp!

I’d also say, whenever someone tries to say “PCB amps are inferior” in any way (tone, reliability, serviceability etc), I always point them to the SLO as an example of PCB done right. And I really upset the cork sniffers when I say the SLO style PCB is how Fender should have done it gone far back as the early 70s when PCB tech was able to do that. The old handwired boards of the 70s had way too many problems
 
You're probably right. I build tweed style amps in the tweed style way and with careful lead dress and a decent ground scheme I can get zero hum. I sell some the friends from time to time and they seem to like the way they look inside. But then they get disappointed when I mention that a well-made PCB amp could sound just as good. Trouble is that most PCB amp manufacturers cut corners. I would guess that's why PCBs get such a bad rap. And if you design PCBs like Peavey or Fender then it's probably deserved. But Soldano and Suhr do an excellent job.

I think that's why some people hate modernist architecture. Great modernist architecture is sublime, but a lot of developers use the same "modern" construction techniques to cut costs and design poorly. Most people don't know the difference between good design and bad; they just know that bad design is unpleasant to live with and blame the materials, not the design.
 
You're probably right. I build tweed style amps in the tweed style way and with careful lead dress and a decent ground scheme I can get zero hum. I sell some the friends from time to time and they seem to like the way they look inside. But then they get disappointed when I mention that a well-made PCB amp could sound just as good. Trouble is that most PCB amp manufacturers cut corners. I would guess that's why PCBs get such a bad rap. And if you design PCBs like Peavey or Fender then it's probably deserved. But Soldano and Suhr do an excellent job.

I think that's why some people hate modernist architecture. Great modernist architecture is sublime, but a lot of developers use the same "modern" construction techniques to cut costs and design poorly. Most people don't know the difference between good design and bad; they just know that bad design is unpleasant to live with and blame the materials, not the design.
I agree- it’s the combination of older PCB designs not being as solid as modern AND the fact that people’s first impressions of PCB amps, unfortunately are not with the Soldanos, Engls or Suhrs of the world, rather they experience problems being the 3rd owner of an abused “budget price point” type amp (that likely has less in materials than just the PCB alone of a SLO or Engl cost).

For me, building classic amp designs (Tweed and AB763 Fender, Marshall Plexi/Jcm and Vox AC type), as one-offs, it just makes sense to build them like they did back in the day.
And also for me, it’s a relaxing thing (unlike when I worked on amps professionally— made me hate it for over a decade)… to sit with a chassis on my work table for an afternoon, routing wires etc helps take my mind off of the work stress of the week. Pedals are fun for me since I can knock one out when I have an hour or so free time
But if I was going into any scale of production, I’d definitely be getting PCBs made. Modern PCBs are affordable and NICE! Hell, just look at the boards we use for pedals: comparing PPCB boards to old school DIY boards like Tonepad (nothing against his boards, but you can tell they were designed 20yrs ago), and even back to when we would etch our own using sharpie or letraset, there is no comparison. Older style PCBs were somewhat fragile compared to PPCB boards— you’d have to really work hard to mess up one of these boards!!
 
update:
shortly after i had it running i got chatting with a builder in Melbourne (Sirius Amplification) and asked about building a cabinet for this chassis.
eventually it all came together, and i just got it all fitted up nicely this afternoon.

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pretty stoked with the black snakeskin tolex.
 
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