S.Bear Alpha 3PDT vs StompBoxParts 3PDT Pro?

pcb rookie

Active member
I have parts to order from both SB and PPP.

Quality difference between Alpha 3PDT ($5.25) from SmallBear and the 3PDT Pro ($3.25) from StompBoxParts?

Both links bellow:

Txs
 
I'd get the Pro ones. Especially if you're using the pedalpcb 3pdt breakout boards (Alpha doesn't fit).
 
I was going to pull the trigger on the SB Alpha ones and yes I intended on using the PedalPCB daughter boards. You just saved me some problems ahead and a few $$$ as well!

Thank you for your help!
 
I’m late but I figured I’d post because I was looking up the difference between the alpha and regular and I came across this thread l. The breakout board appears to fit my alpha switch from Tayda. A-4191
 

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Unrelated but HOLY CRAP smallbear wants $9 for that switch???

You should see what STEWed MACkincheese wants for it, about $22-$23.




Here's the various prices at SynthBearSmallCube:
(I wonder what's up with the dollar difference between the two Alpha SF17020Fs in the upper right)

SynthBearSmallCube 3PDT prices.png
The Gorvas are nice, recently got some and like the actuation-feel.


BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ahhhhhh … ok. I’m ok now.

BAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAhahahaaaaaa. they want WHAT?!

No Way is that switch worth $9. Get the ones from SBP. You’ll be fine.

2:27 = me


I laugh like that, too, when it's soo-ooh funny I can't breath.
 
I’d definitely say to try the @StompBoxParts 3PDTs, nicer than the Gorvas both to solder and the way they feel to actuate, and they’re a buck cheaper on average (you can get the Gorvas cheaper elsewhere too, what did SynthCube do to Smallbear??)
Those are the ones I’ve been buying and I really like them. Especially the softer ones. My friends really like them too. Hopefully they’ll stand up to years of abuse.
 
The pros are the same as the tayda premium brand. Although I do like the black version sbp sells with the lower actuator tension.
Which ones are the “premium”, the $2.99 Dailywells? I used to use those but the actuation force was *heavy* (not as heavy as the Alpha, but definitely up there), good switches but definitely a different look and feel from the SBP

They SBPs are definitely *not* the same as the $2.30 Tayda-branded ones (the red with 1.1kg actuation force and the black one with 3kg actuation force), the epoxy doesn’t stand up to heat nearly as well so you gotta solder those ones *super* fast or you’ll break the switch, and I’ve experienced more long-term failures with them than any other switch I’ve tried. Ultimately wasn’t worth saving a buck IME; if I’m buying 3PDTs from Tayda it’s Alphas so I don’t have to stress about reliability.
 
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I've been wondering why SBP never restocked their normal $3 switch... that's been my staple switch for over a year and now they only have the pro's...
Ultimately want to stock only the best stuff. The Pro's are nearly indestructible, never had a single person mention a failure (yet, it's bound to happen). The standard ones couldn't hold up to wave soldering but did fine with hand soldering. I can dip one of the Pro's directly into the bed of 260°C solder for 20+ seconds and the casing is still perfectly in tact as is the rest of the switching mechanism. Hold the iron on a lug for 10 seconds and see what happens. Now try on a cheap switch. Clear choice to us. Treat yourself, try 'em out!

The pros are the same as the tayda premium brand. Although I do like the black version sbp sells with the lower actuator tension.
Most likely yes or similar. But we need variety so figured the rest of you did too.

They SBPs are definitely *not* the same as the $2.30 Tayda-branded ones (the red with 1.1kg actuation force and the black one with 3kg actuation force), the epoxy doesn’t stand up to heat nearly as well so you gotta solder those ones *super* fast or you’ll break the switch, and I’ve experienced more long-term failures with them than any other switch I’ve tried.
Yuuuuup.
 
Ultimately want to stock only the best stuff. The Pro's are nearly indestructible, never had a single person mention a failure (yet, it's bound to happen). The standard ones couldn't hold up to wave soldering but did fine with hand soldering. I can dip one of the Pro's directly into the bed of 260°C solder for 20+ seconds and the casing is still perfectly in tact as is the rest of the switching mechanism. Hold the iron on a lug for 10 seconds and see what happens. Now try on a cheap switch. Clear choice to us. Treat yourself, try 'em out!


Most likely yes or similar. But we need variety so figured the rest of you did too.


Yuuuuup.
true... I've been using the pros from you guys since I ran out of the others..... They are indeed nice
 
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