Sanguine (revv g4)

Keith

Member
Extremely easy to build , no issues like most times.. Tons of gain on tap, probably the most brutal distortion ive heard from a pedal especially running into the return jack on my heads.. Ive built the thermionic and as heavy as that can get , this has way more brutality.. Metal heads rejoice \m/
 

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Great build! Nice to see someone build a high-gain pedal that doesn't oscillate. Where did you get those cool invisible knobs?
 
Great build! Nice to see someone build a high-gain pedal that doesn't oscillate. Where did you get those cool invisible knobs?
I dont know how much of this comment is sarcastic so I wont touch it.. Obviously havent put any knobs on it before the photo was taken.. Thanks tho
 
Yeah, it was late and I had to give the picture a double-take. I was serious about the oscillating pedal part of my comment. We see so many posts in the Troubleshooting forum where folks have trouble with squealing pedals, particularly the high-gain ones.. When they're built right, they work right, as you have shown.
 
Yeah, it was late and I had to give the picture a double-take. I was serious about the oscillating pedal part of my comment. We see so many posts in the Troubleshooting forum where folks have trouble with squealing pedals, particularly the high-gain ones.. When they're built right, they work right, as you have shown.

I bet it’s those pesky knobs that cause oscillation.
 
Yeah, it was late and I had to give the picture a double-take. I was serious about the oscillating pedal part of my comment. We see so many posts in the Troubleshooting forum where folks have trouble with squealing pedals, particularly the high-gain ones.. When they're built right, they work right, as you have shown.

How would building it wrong cause oscillation? Too long of wire?
 
I could never get mine to work....if i remember correctly it sounded like a Fuzz...then a Treble booster ! Messed with it to much and destroyed a trace coming off a pot....

The Tyrian i had trouble with that one...put the IC in backwards...put a 10R in place of a 10K or vice versa..it smoked !...i got that one going but has all the usable gain i need

I have the Malachite PCB....im still gun shy about building it ....this series of distortions doesn't like me ! lol But they have all been my mistakes, builder error !

Again awesome job Keith !

Mike
 
How would building it wrong cause oscillation? Too long of wire?

The short answer is "build the pedal per the drawing, use quality parts and follow the Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB." Do those things and your success rate will approach 100%.
Bad wire routing can cause oscillation. For most pedals it's a long run from the IN & OUT jacks to the stomp switch. The input and output wires should be run along the chassis walls away from the pots, board and each other.
 
The short answer is "build the pedal per the drawing, use quality parts and follow the Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB." Do those things and your success rate will approach 100%.
Bad wire routing can cause oscillation. For most pedals it's a long run from the IN & OUT jacks to the stomp switch. The input and output wires should be run along the chassis walls away from the pots, board and each other.

I didn't know people had issues with this build. I would agreed with quality components, but I am starting to question the use of ceramic capacitors. I have been seeing them in a lot of professional pedals, which is counter what I was led to believe.
 
I didn't know people had issues with this build. I would agreed with quality components, but I am starting to question the use of ceramic capacitors. I have been seeing them in a lot of professional pedals, which is counter what I was led to believe.

My issues were rookie/ newbie mistakes and my own inexperience ..buying parts off eBay that most likely seconds ive learned a lot on this Forum since last Sept !

Spending the extra buck instead of saving a buck goes with out saying on components ive learned

Mike
 
... I am starting to question the use of ceramic capacitors. I have been seeing them in a lot of professional pedals, which is counter what I was led to believe.

Some of the worst caps are ceramic and some of the best caps are ceramic, it really depends on what you need the cap to do. MLCC caps have very low resistance and inductance, which makes them ideal for power supply bypass in digital circuits, like the FV-1 pedals. They are also very compact. The downside for ceramic caps is that they can be microphonic, exhibit dielectric absorption (which can muddy the signal) and for large signals can be non-linear (not an issue in pedals). Some are cheaply made and unreliable.

The advantage of film and tantalum caps is they are transparent. They don't alter the sound.

As for the "professional pedals," depending on the builder they either select parts based on what sounds good to them or they use whatever is the cheapest. Back in the early days, the pedal builders all used ceramic caps and CC resistors because that's what was affordable and readily available.
 
The short answer is "build the pedal per the drawing, use quality parts and follow the Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB." Do those things and your success rate will approach 100%.
Bad wire routing can cause oscillation. For most pedals it's a long run from the IN & OUT jacks to the stomp switch. The input and output wires should be run along the chassis walls away from the pots, board and each other.
That's one of the reasons why I prefer side mounted jacks - super-short wires directly to the stomp switch.
 
Extremely easy to build , no issues like most times.. Tons of gain on tap, probably the most brutal distortion ive heard from a pedal especially running into the return jack on my heads.. Ive built the thermionic and as heavy as that can get , this has way more brutality.. Metal heads rejoice \m/
I agree on the placement of this pedal - sounds absolutely massive when run in the effects loop, bypassing the amp's preamp. A real monster!
 
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