Seabed Delay Dry Signal

[astinplus]

Hello! I recently built a Seabed Delay, but all I'm getting is a dry signal. Soldering is clean and saw a forum post about a difference between the build doc and the PCB, but I soldered according to the PCB (although the build doc lines up with the PCB). Is there a known issue with the board that causes it to do this? I measured the voltages at all the pins on both the PT2399 and TL072 (as another forum post about this board recommended) if that would help. I'm not sure what's wrong - the potentiometers, an IC or a resistor? If anyone has any experience with issues on this board and could help me troubleshoot that would be awesome. Thanks!

Also, I attached a picture of my soldering. It would be awesome if the whole issue is just a fixable soldering issue, but I've looked over this board so many times that I would actually be blind if I didn't see it.

 

[thomasbe86]

Hey, nice delay this one! do you have a picture of the other side of the board? if an electrolytic capacitor is reversed between pins, this could cause the issue, hope you did not fry the chip

 

[JohnnyCreepy]

Red = COLD JOINT/partial contact, reflow at higher temp and get yourself more familiar how your soldering tip behaves with your solder
Yellow = possible cold joint hiding, reflowing probably necessary
Green = excellent joint, congratulations

Pre-tin your wires before soldering! From my experience soldering station set to higher temp has caused less problems as tip contact time to pad and component reduces drastically compared to lower temp setting. If you can see solder going bad/brittle when soldering, temp is set too high. If it doesn’t flow freely, temp is too low.

 

[Erik S]

Gonna need some more pics. Components (clear enough to read the stripes), wiring, and all the jack and footswitch connections.

 

[astinplus]

Sorry for the late response! Here are photos of the top of the board - someone else ordered parts for me (since I was new to all this) and they ordered the wrong parts.

I did what I could with what I had, which means the 180k resistor is actually a combination of other resistors in series and parallel. I measured the resistance and it was equivalent to 180k. There are also ceramic capacitors where the build doc asks for film capacitors. However, all of the parts have the specified capacitance or resistance.

When I turn the pedal on, the light turns on and I see that the signal has resistance, so I'm confident the signal is actually going through the pedal (i.e. there isn't just a short on the footswitch or jack).

 

[Erik S]

That's some funky stuff you got going on there.

Props for working with what you've got, but take a look at some finished builds posted around here for some ideas on making your life easier on the next one.

Dry signal only, first thing I would want to look at would be jack and footswitch connections, which I don't see yet, but if like you say, the resistance from tip to tip changes when you engage the pedal, that seems positive.

Are you sure your pot orientations are correct? (Wired as though the pots were connected on the non-component side facing away from the board)

 

[thomasbe86]

Sorry for the late response! Here are photos of the top of the board - someone else ordered parts for me (since I was new to all this) and they ordered the wrong parts.

I did what I could with what I had, which means the 180k resistor is actually a combination of other resistors in series and parallel. I measured the resistance and it was equivalent to 180k. There are also ceramic capacitors where the build doc asks for film capacitors. However, all of the parts have the specified capacitance or resistance.

When I turn the pedal on, the light turns on and I see that the signal has resistance, so I'm confident the signal is actually going through the pedal (i.e. there isn't just a short on the footswitch or jack).

It seems there might be a couple of cold or missed joints, do you have a picture of the other side?

 

[astinplus]

Pictures of both sides of the board are in the original post and my previous reply, @thomasbe86 .

Also, for potentiometer wiring, the build doc didn't specify how to wire them up, but is this generally what you're suggesting, @Erik S ?

Potentiometer wiring was my first suspicion, but maybe I didn't try this configuration.

Again, thanks for your help!

 

[Erik S]

Pictures of both sides of the board are in the original post and my previous reply, @thomasbe86 .

Also, for potentiometer wiring, the build doc didn't specify how to wire them up, but is this generally what you're suggesting, @Erik S ?
View attachment 93262View attachment 93261
Potentiometer wiring was my first suspicion, but maybe I didn't try this configuration.

Again, thanks for your help!

Pot wiring should be reverse of what you've indicated there.

Pin 1 should connect to the square pads.

 

[Nic]

Look at a few build reports here, you will understand how it all goes together

 

[astinplus]

I wired the potentiometers with your direction, @Erik S , but it's still just the dry signal. Also, I just realized in my original post I said I measured voltages at different pins on the IC, but I never provided them. Here they are:

PT2399
Pin 1: 3.725
2: 0V
3: 0V
4: 1.165V
5: 3.686V
6: 1.815V
7: 0V
8: 0V
9: 3.382V
10: 0V
11: 0V
12: 1.811V
13: 1.810V
14: 0V
15: 0V
16: 0V

TL072:
Pin 1: 2.703V
2: 2.701V
3: 2.710V
4: 0V
5: 2.709V
6: 0V
7: 2.699V
8: 5.41V

Do any of these measurements have an obvious issue?

I looked at some build reports and I haven't seen any glaring differences (other than my improvised resistors/capacitors).

Also, next time I build a board I will make 1000% sure I order the right parts and consult some build reports. This is my first time, so I'm just trying to salvage this one. Thanks for helping!

 

[Erik S]

Does the dry signal go away/ change when you hit the footswitch?

What’s that switch looking like?

 

[swelchy]

I've built several seabed delays... Here is a build report pic of my latest for reference...

 

[Feral Feline]

Pictures of both sides of the board are in the original post and my previous reply, @thomasbe86 .

Also, for potentiometer wiring, the build doc didn't specify how to wire them up, but is this generally what you're suggesting, @Erik S ?
View attachment 93262View attachment 93261
Potentiometer wiring was my first suspicion, but maybe I didn't try this configuration.

Again, thanks for your help!

To add to what Erik S said, ie that you have the reverse of how it should be, that's on the pic of the PCB.
The picture of the POT is numbered correctly, but when attached to the PCB with the components facing you, the pot should face away from you with leg-lugs dangling, rendering the numbering L-R 3 2 1.

 

[Locrian99]

I wired the potentiometers with your direction, @Erik S , but it's still just the dry signal. Also, I just realized in my original post I said I measured voltages at different pins on the IC, but I never provided them. Here they are:

PT2399
Pin 1: 3.725
2: 0V
3: 0V
4: 1.165V
5: 3.686V
6: 1.815V
7: 0V
8: 0V
9: 3.382V
10: 0V
11: 0V
12: 1.811V
13: 1.810V
14: 0V
15: 0V
16: 0V

TL072:
Pin 1: 2.703V
2: 2.701V
3: 2.710V
4: 0V
5: 2.709V
6: 0V
7: 2.699V
8: 5.41V

Do any of these measurements have an obvious issue?

I looked at some build reports and I haven't seen any glaring differences (other than my improvised resistors/capacitors).

Also, next time I build a board I will make 1000% sure I order the right parts and consult some build reports. This is my first time, so I'm just trying to salvage this one. Thanks for helping!

None of these are right. Tl072! Should be right around 9 on pin 8. About half that on all but 4 which should be 0. 2399 pin 1 shpuld be 5v ish. I remember 9-16 should be about half that. I don’t remember the rest off the top of my head but youve got some major issues going on there