Silver "Trace" on PCB, one side is messed up, is that OK? what is the sliver pad thing called?

[EGRENIER]

OK, cool. The pots were totally my fault because I did them all backwards by mistake and then i accidentally desoldered the wrong one, and then I f'd up again so that poor BOOTY C5K pot had to come in and out 3 times and i had to buy a new one because i broke it completely. Thanks for all the help from the forum. My next pedal will be....

THE DIRTY SANCHEZ!

Don't be to hard on yourself, we all mess up our builds, even the most experienced builder here still make silly mistakes and will not shy away from admitting them...

My favorite two mistakes that I can't seem to get away from are:

- Forgetting to clip the notch of the pots and wondering why the F%^&* isn't my board fitting properly in the box
- Soldering the 3PDT breakout board upside down, even though it's written in huge letter "This Side Goes Down"

 

[Feral Feline]

About the LED colors, I won't say it's a myth because the science supports the statement, however, I watch a few youtube videos demonstrating the differences between clipping of different colors, and I couldn't see a difference. There may be one and my ears can't hear the difference, or it's more obvious live than on a youtube video with headphones.... I dunno...

I'll make a statement to stirs things up a bit:

LED color clipping impact is like Tone wood...

LED colour tonal differences may depend partly on the circuit design, probably. So you're correct, the clipping impact IS like tone wood.

... "This Side Goes Down"

Well that all depends on your perspective...

"Down" when the build is completed and on your pedalboard while you're rockin' out, or "Down" when you're staring at the guts in the enclosure wondering WTFudgsicle went wrong?

 

[EGRENIER]

LED colour tonal differences may depend partly on the circuit design, probably. So you're correct, the clipping impact IS like tone wood.



Well that all depends on your perspective...

"Down" when the build is completed and on your pedalboard while you're rockin' out, or "Down" when you're staring at the guts in the enclosure wondering WTFudgsicle went wrong?

Thanks, I will use this excuse next time I make the same mistake... which is likely to be on my next build...

 

[music6000]

I just looked more closely at the schematic. Lug 1 of the C5K pot is left floating (it's wired as a variable resistor, not a voltage divider). It's a no connection (NC), so you're getting a correct reading.

I was just Testing to see if Members were on their Game!
Updated Picture above!

 

[Grubb]

Don't be to hard on yourself, we all mess up our builds, even the most experienced builder here still make silly mistakes and will not shy away from admitting them...

My habitual mistake is to put the board in the enclosure and solder the DC connection before realising I have once again forgotten to attach to the board the ground wires that go to the jacks. I'm getting really good at hooking those suckers in place from underneath the board!

 

[EGRENIER]

I was just Testing to see if Members were on their Game!
Updated Picture above!

Well I failed, I even pulled the schematic and circled exactly the lug that was going nowhere !

 

[Robert]

I'm getting really good at hooking those suckers in place from underneath the board!

I do all of my offboard wiring from the component side after the PCB is mounted in the enclosure.

 

[Grubb]

I do all of my offboard wiring from the component side after the PCB is mounted in the enclosure.

There you go. One man's mistake is another's modus operandi.

 

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

GENTS. I got my replacement C5K BOOTY pot today and I soldered it in. the broken pad I was worried about is definitely an issue. can anyone be so kind as to tell me where I will need to manually jumper the ground of the booty pot to on teh side that is opposite the components?

 

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

Also seems the sizzle pot had a lifted trace... I will for sure have to manually bridge one lug of each pot on the underside. I will heap praise and good karma upon any who can help me fix my booty and sizzle.

 

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

Test Updated picture for Continuity with matching circles.
The Green circle has no connection!

Music6000. Can u please do the same for me for the a100k pot called sizzle? Neither booty nor sizzle are changing pedal tone.

 

[Mcknib]

Did you continuity check to confirm there's no connection

Using the schematic this is where you'd place jumpers I've just done them all obviously you'd only do the damaged one's

You will need to continuity check the components to make sure you solder your jumper to the correct side

Sizzle lug 1 solder a jumper directly to the pot lug then over to C24 side that doesn't connect to ground

Lug 2 jumper from pot lug to R35 side that doesn't connect to C17

Lug 3 pot lug to R36 side that doesn't connect to R37 / C25

Booty

Lug 1 not connected

Lug 2 from pot lug to C26 side not connected to ground you can jumper to Q1 source but I'd go C26

Lug 3 pot lug to C7 + side

I usually do it on the solder side of the pcb I'll put solder both ends of the jumper and just melt onto the component solder joint that's already there kinda like tack it on

You can if it's easier do it on the component side but you're better doing it on the solder side to avoid touching components with your iron

You can use the shop pcb image where you'll see some traces, but not all, those pads that have a faint crosshair through them connect to ground so if you zoom in and look at C24 the 100n for example left pad has it, so that's the ground side



I don't have the pcb and as I say you can't see all the traces but with a little continuity checking you'll get there just take your time

All your actually doing is bypassing a broken trace, a trace is effectively a wire so you just replace the trashed 1 with a wire

 

[Feral Feline]

Also seems the sizzle pot had a lifted trace... I will for sure have to manually bridge one lug of each pot on the underside. I will heap praise and good karma upon any who can help me fix my booty and sizzle.

You mentioned that the Booty's ground is an issue, but which pad of the Sizzle has become suspect?

You didn't list the name of the pedal in the title of the thread, nor the complete name "Face Melter" in the OP, so it took me a minute to find the correct schematic...

As already discussed in the thread by Music6000, Booty pot's leg #1 is left floating — it has no connection ie N/C, don'wurreebowdit; leg #3 goes to C7 which in turn goes to ground. So if legs 2&3 of Booty are properly soldered (and their respective connected-components) then you're good there, but you say you're not getting any change. So something else is up with that. Once the pot is vetted, check C7 next, make sure no cold solder joints. One side of C7 should beep with ground on your DMM's continudity testes ehr tester. (whoops, must be the original circuit's influence). The other side of C7 should beep with Big Booty #3.

Similarly, Sizzle's Schlizzle #1 should beep with C24, and the opposite side of C24 will RoadRunner with ground. Sizzle #2 & #3 and one side of both R35 and R36 should all go beepity-boppity with each other. If any one of these connections, for example #3 and at least one side of R36, don't beep, then Angelica Houston we have a probe-lemming.

That oughta keep you busy for a red-hot minute.

 

[Feral Feline]

DOh, Mcnib beat me to the scene of the accident, by a short blonde straight one.

Mcnib has better advice, anyway.

 

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

Did you continuity check to confirm there's no connection

Using the schematic this is where you'd place jumpers I've just done them all obviously you'd only do the damaged one's

You will need to continuity check the components to make sure you solder to the correct side

Sizzle lug 1 solder a jumper directly to the pot lug then over to C24 side that doesn't connect to ground

Lug 2 jumper from pot lug to R35 side that doesn't connect to C17

Lug 3 pot lug to R36 side that doesn't connect to R37 / C25

Booty

Lug 1 not connected

Lug 2 from pot lug to C26 side not connected to ground you can jumper to Q1 source but I'd go C26

Lug 3 pot lug to C7 + side

I usually do it on the solder side of the pcb I'll put solder both ends of the jumper and just melt onto the component solder joint that's already there kinda like tack it on

You can if it's easier do it on the component side but you're better doing it on the solder side to avoid touching components with your iron

You can use the shop pcb image where you'll see some traces but not all those pads that have a faint crosshair through them connect to ground so if you zoom in and look at C24 the 100n for example left pad has it, so that's the ground side

View attachment 14040

God bless u man! I'm at the vet with my dog and will be here for about 4 hours and will do this/try this soon as I get home. This community is awesome. I'm in my smartphone reading articles on how to interpret wiring schematic starting with the newbie basics. Is LUG 1 of the potentiometer always GROUND? Whether to ground directly or thru a cap or resist and then to ground? Thank u for the reply!!!!!! I am on a mission to fix my melter. I must restore booty and sizzle. Bless u.

 

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

You mentioned that the Booty's ground is an issue, but which pad of the Sizzle has become suspect?

You didn't list the name of the pedal in the title of the thread, nor the complete name "Face Melter" in the OP, so it took me a minute to find the correct schematic...

As already discussed in the thread by Music6000, Booty pot's leg #1 is left floating — it has no connection ie N/C, don'wurreebowdit; leg #3 goes to C7 which in turn goes to ground. So if legs 2&3 of Booty are properly soldered (and their respective connected-components) then you're good there, but you say you're not getting any change. So something else is up with that. Once the pot is vetted, check C7 next, make sure no cold solder joints. One side of C7 should beep with ground on your DMM's continudity testes ehr tester. (whoops, must be the original circuit's influence). The other side of C7 should beep with Big Booty #3.

Similarly, Sizzle's Schlizzle #1 should beep with C24, and the opposite side of C24 will RoadRunner with ground. Sizzle #2 & #3 and one side of both R35 and R36 should all go beepity-boppity with each other. If any one of these connections, for example #3 and at least one side of R36, don't beep, then Angelica Houston we have a probe-lemming.

That oughta keep you busy for a red-hot minute.

At vet for a long time today but I'm pretty sure the ground lug of sizzle is also fubar. Neither pot changes tone. I had to remove and reinstall them and really Fd up my board and those pads in doing so. I cannot thank u guys enough for replying to me with the help. I need to get home and do exactly what you pedal doctors are prescribing.

 

[Mcknib]

Mcnib has better advice, anyway.

That's a wild statement

I wish my advice was more like yours good wit and a tad shorter

I always seem to write a novel

Chapter 2

See I'm doing it again

I can prattle

As my kids always say at social events.......

Please Dad don't start talking about pedals

 

[Mcknib]

Is LUG 3 of the potentiometer always GROUND? Whether to ground directly or thru a cap or resist and then to ground? Thank u for the reply!!!!!! I am on a mission to fix my melter. I must restore booty and sizzle. Bless u.

Depends on what the pots used for in this circuit only one is a voltage divider (all 3 lugs used)

Load or volume that either lets signal through turned up or dumps it to ground turned down dividing the voltage / signal by adding resistance between lug 2 and either lug 1 or 3

So if you turned it down there would be little to no resistance between lugs 1 and 2 and following the path of least resistance all signal would get dumped to ground turn it up you'd gradually get less and less resistance between lugs 3 and 2 letting more and more signal through to the output

The others are wired as variable resistors where only 2 lugs are used to alter resistance one booty has a lug floating the others have 2 joined together basically the same thing

If you take dirty for example put simply it's a gain pot which varies the resistance in IC1.1 negative feedback loop more resistance = less negative feedback and more gain (I think)

Booty is bass I don't know how it works exactly but it's got larger value caps to allow bass frequencies through in combination with the pot varying resistance

Sizzle smaller value caps = treble

For 99.9% of pedal circuits these are the only 2 pot configurations

Reading a schematic isn't that difficult it's basically join the dots from in to out knowing what each circuit node does is a bit more difficult

Just remember your guitar signal is AC the active components in the circuit are DC powered so you want your small AC guitar signal to get from in to out be amplified, alter frequency etc caps block DC and allow your guitar AC signal to pass through them, alter high / low frequency etc in combination with resistors and other components

 

[Feral Feline]

At vet for a long time today but I'm pretty sure the ground lug of sizzle is also fubar. Neither pot changes tone. I had to remove and reinstall them and really Fd up my board and those pads in doing so. I cannot thank u guys enough for replying to me with the help. I need to get home and do exactly what you pedal doctors are prescribing.

Family first, take care o' the wee doggie. Nothin' serious I hope.

I'm no pedal doctor, not even a vet, but if you had to compare, I'd be sorta like Doctor Q, a quack.

Pics of the doggo, SVP, when you get a chance.

 

[burger-patty-and-bacon]

I am officially back from the Vet. $540 USD later for an infected duclaw removal on left paw, full knock-out anaesthesia, plastic cone on the head so she cant lick the thing, 2 diff meds and some ointments... on my 8 year old shepherd/hound mix.

I am going to print out the schematic for the face melter now and go over all of these replies in great detail now that I am at my main workstation PC and can actually work the pedal. THANK YOU FOR WRITING TO ME IN THIS THREAD. I am concinced I can fix the pedal based on what is listed above.

here is my dog: