Stock GE7 to XTS Version?

So...I've spent some time looking at this modification a bit further and I think I've answered one question but brought up another.

I used this site to calculate and verify the frequencies on the original (and bass version) Boss pedal, including the incorrectly labeled 6.4k value everyone seems to find. I also did some comparisons to the MXR pedal as well. This seems like the correct method and formula, so designing the circuit for the center of each adjusted frequency seems to work.

The next problem is determining the Q factor (aka quality or bandwidth). This is key in determining the width of frequencies affected. I went down a major rabbit hole, including: calculating Q for Boss & MXR pedals, calculating Q for rack mount 15 & 30 band equalizer schematics I could find, reading thesis papers, reading patents, etc!

Why does this matter? When changing the gaps between frequencies, keeping the Boss Q values while changing to different gaps between frequencies may not create a desired outcome. Below shows the difference between a wide width (low Q) and therefore large overlap with bands and small width (high Q) and therefore small overlap with bands.
1692647329661.png 1692647348129.png
"Opting for a high Q will preclude control over the larger frequency gap, while opting for a low Q may result in large internal gains for the closely spaced bands"

What I found in my journey was a large variation in Q for octave-based graphic EQ design. I assume this is due to the designer making offsetting choices when determining their design. For the Boss pedals, Q typically ranged between 3 and 4. MXR between 2 and 3. I saw some rack mount EQs in the 5's. And these are all for octave EQs with the same frequency spacing! Now change it to randomly spaced frequencies selected by a Nashville session guitarist - who knows how they selected their Q values!

What surprised me was the lack of information online on circuit design strategy and the factors that should go into choosing a Q for a given frequency range. I found the straight conversion formula / table and one could theoretically convert the distance in frequency to the Q factor but the 5 circuits I analyzed were always larger than these conversions, meaning they look like the 2nd picture above and will have gaps in adjustment between frequencies.

1692653934498.png 1692654138917.png

I think options here are:
1. Someone who has purchased an XTS modded GE-7 provides the component values online (hoping, but hasn't happened and pedal out for years)
2. Someone provides references or guidance on how to chose a Q value when given a frequency range, whether straight conversion or other, and this guidance is followed to provide an optimum overlap with the XTS frequencies. I spent several hours searching and couldn't find anything. I'm sure this answer is lying in many out of print textbooks, somewhere.
3. I'm going to continue to hunt down 2/3 octave (in rack-world 15-band) graphic equalizer schematics and see if there's consistent approach and post a design here. If anyone else has a schematic on hand, I'd love to see a reply. This would not be an exact XTS replica, but instead would follow what I've found to be a standard frequency range of 400Hz, 630, 1k, 1.6k, 2.5k, 4k, with the option of having 250 on the bottom or 6.3k on the top for the 7th frequency. I'd probably opt for 250 on bottom. This may be the route I take anyways, since this feels like a nice halfway point between the XTS and Boss version.

I just purchased a CE-2B / GEB-7 combo on eBay for a steal and the GEB-7 will make a perfect donor pedal for the conversion, so looking forward to working this project!
 
So...I've spent some time looking at this modification a bit further and I think I've answered one question but brought up another.

I used this site to calculate and verify the frequencies on the original (and bass version) Boss pedal, including the incorrectly labeled 6.4k value everyone seems to find. I also did some comparisons to the MXR pedal as well. This seems like the correct method and formula, so designing the circuit for the center of each adjusted frequency seems to work.

The next problem is determining the Q factor (aka quality or bandwidth). This is key in determining the width of frequencies affected. I went down a major rabbit hole, including: calculating Q for Boss & MXR pedals, calculating Q for rack mount 15 & 30 band equalizer schematics I could find, reading thesis papers, reading patents, etc!

Why does this matter? When changing the gaps between frequencies, keeping the Boss Q values while changing to different gaps between frequencies may not create a desired outcome. Below shows the difference between a wide width (low Q) and therefore large overlap with bands and small width (high Q) and therefore small overlap with bands.
View attachment 54952View attachment 54953
"Opting for a high Q will preclude control over the larger frequency gap, while opting for a low Q may result in large internal gains for the closely spaced bands"

What I found in my journey was a large variation in Q for octave-based graphic EQ design. I assume this is due to the designer making offsetting choices when determining their design. For the Boss pedals, Q typically ranged between 3 and 4. MXR between 2 and 3. I saw some rack mount EQs in the 5's. And these are all for octave EQs with the same frequency spacing! Now change it to randomly spaced frequencies selected by a Nashville session guitarist - who knows how they selected their Q values!

What surprised me was the lack of information online on circuit design strategy and the factors that should go into choosing a Q for a given frequency range. I found the straight conversion formula / table and one could theoretically convert the distance in frequency to the Q factor but the 5 circuits I analyzed were always larger than these conversions, meaning they look like the 2nd picture above and will have gaps in adjustment between frequencies.

View attachment 54962View attachment 54963

I think options here are:
1. Someone who has purchased an XTS modded GE-7 provides the component values online (hoping, but hasn't happened and pedal out for years)
2. Someone provides references or guidance on how to chose a Q value when given a frequency range, whether straight conversion or other, and this guidance is followed to provide an optimum overlap with the XTS frequencies. I spent several hours searching and couldn't find anything. I'm sure this answer is lying in many out of print textbooks, somewhere.
3. I'm going to continue to hunt down 2/3 octave (in rack-world 15-band) graphic equalizer schematics and see if there's consistent approach and post a design here. If anyone else has a schematic on hand, I'd love to see a reply. This would not be an exact XTS replica, but instead would follow what I've found to be a standard frequency range of 400Hz, 630, 1k, 1.6k, 2.5k, 4k, with the option of having 250 on the bottom or 6.3k on the top for the 7th frequency. I'd probably opt for 250 on bottom. This may be the route I take anyways, since this feels like a nice halfway point between the XTS and Boss version.

I just purchased a CE-2B / GEB-7 combo on eBay for a steal and the GEB-7 will make a perfect donor pedal for the conversion, so looking forward to working this project!
Wow! You really have dug in to this!

I probably could borrow an XTS modded GE7 and take a look inside. It might be a few weeks before I can get it though.
 
It's a guy I don't see very much and he forgot to bring it. We have some group plan to jam that keeps getting push back because off people getting sick. But I'll be better at reminding next time :)

Although you could be right, it might be easier for them to just replace the pcb.
 
I have it!

Since it's not mine I'm trying to be delicate with it and not scuff it up but let me know if there's more angles to photograph or ask a question about a part value.
 

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I have it!

Since it's not mine I'm trying to be delicate with it and not scuff it up but let me know if there's more angles to photograph or ask a question about a part value.
Nice!! There's a white box cap that I cannot see the value in the first picture.
If you take as much pictures as you can from different angles, and drop them in a google drive or similar. I would gladly go through them and write a diagram/document with the changes in the mod.

(ideally, unscrew the sliders board, to see all the missing components)
 
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We already worked with @joelorigo to get this reverse engineered, but I forgot to post the results.
I generated a PDF document with screen captures of the LTspice schematic and simulations for the EQ part of the schematic of the: GE7, GEB7, GE7B, and the XTS modded GE7.


Here are the images directly for the 4 variations:

GE7 (using mine + online schematic)
GE7_schem.png
GE7_sim.png


GE7B (using online schematics)
GE7B_schem.png
GE7B_sim.png


GEB7 (using mine + online schematic)
GEB7_schem.png
GEB7_sim.png


XTS modded GE7 (using the pictures and measurements kindly provided to me by @joelorigo )
GE7mid_schem.png
GE7mid_sim.png
 
I will add these. The schematic and BOM for the Effects Layouts Prismatic, with the parts mods to turn it into an XTS GE7, which is what I am planning to doing.
 

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I'm planning on customising the EQ points for my Prismatic-build.

What I'd like to know is for the various Boss EQs and derivatives, does anyone know what the Q for the final band-7 (highs) is?
Both the GE-7B and XTS are 4k, but the values to achieve that Hz differ wildly between the two, so I imagine the Q is very different.


BOSS GE-SERIES EQ BAND 7

GEBGEB-7GE-7BXTSFFFX
Capacitor47n27n68n39n?
Resistor820Ω560Ω560Ω1k02?
Q-Factor?????
Hz6k410k4k4k2k5

or if you prefer, same table oriented opposite...

RESISTORCAPACITORQ-FACTORHERTZ
BOSS GEB820Ω47n?6k4
BOSS GEB-7560Ω27n?10k
BOSS GE-7B560Ω68n?4k
XTS1k0239n?4k
FFFX???2k–2k5


BAND COMPARISON

BAND 1BAND 2BAND 3BAND 4BAND 5BAND 6BAND 7
BOSS GE-71002004008001k63k26k4
BOSS GEB-7501204005008004k510k
BOSS GE-7B621252505001k2k4k
XTS MODS4008001k21k62k2k54k
FFFX50120250400/5008001k22k5

Haven't really decided on what band 4 will be, might just split the difference at 450Hz. Also...
I'm not totally married to having Band 7 be 2k5, but 2k's pretty close to what I think I want.


Further to determining Band 7...
What's the result of just doubling the R/C values, what would that get me?
For example: the GE7's 6k4, doubling 47n and 820Ω to 94n & 1640Ω (82n or 100n and 1k6 nearest approximate values) will get me close to 3k2;
but doing the same for the GE-7B or XTS... well that's what made me wonder what the Q factor will be for those.
For my band 7's target Hz of around 2k, I should double the Band-7 values of either the GE-7B or XTS.

So, feeding the R/C combo for Band-7 into AMZ's filter calc matches the info in CR0SSBL4DE's graphs and charts.
I plugged in both the GE-7B and the XTS and both came out at 4k (again there's no info on what the Q is).
Bigger caps = more lows, right? I'm trying to drop band 7 to around 2k, as mentioned, so I should double up on the cap values, right?
Double the resistors, too?

So doubling the R/C, 1k6 and (closest value to 94n) 100n = 995Hz corner frequency in the AMZ R/C calc. NOT going in the right direction.
Scratch doubling the resistor value...
If I retain that 820Ω, but bump just the cap value to that 100n, I get 1941.9Hz on the calc. Getting closer finally!

Continuing with the GE-7 guitar EQ resistor value:
820Ω + 82 n = 2368.2Hz

Boss should know what they're doing, so I'll stick to the GEB-7 and GE-7B bass EQ resistor value and just mess with the cap:
560Ω + 100n = 2843.5Hz
560Ω + 120n = 2369.6Hz
560Ω + 150n = 1895.7Hz

For gits & shiggles, let's see what the XTS resistor value gets while playing with the caps:
1k + 150n = 1061.6Hz
1k + 180n = 884.6Hz oops! Going in the wrong direction!
1k + 120n = 1327Hz
1k + 100n = 1592.4Hz
1k + 82 n = 1941.9Hz
1k + 68 n = 2341.7Hz

So, going Hz value (lowest to highest) nearest my target freq, I'll go with either :
1 k / 68 n = 2341.7Hz
820Ω / 82 n = 2368.2Hz
560Ω / 120n = 2369.6Hz

However, still no clue to the Q.

If I could figure out the Q-factor for those, that would inform my final choice.
I'm thinking I want a wide Q for the final band.

Speaking of Qs — I've got more or less stock values in bands 1,2,3 and then it starts to get crowded in the rest of the bands.
I'm still using stock R/C combos cherry-picked from the Boss values, so I suppose I should have a narrower Q for those crowded bands...


HOW WIDE ?

Q DESMOND LLEWELYN how wide?.jpeg


Is the linked AMZ R/C calc the correct online calc for this job?
Overthinking in the wrong direction? Underthinking?
Am I finally on the right track?
 
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I recently watched this YouTube video with Tom Bukovac talking about his "secret weapon" aka the Boss GE-7. I got the impression he was directly responsible for the XTS creating their GE-7 mods (the intent being a midrange-specific EQ). Anyway, what he said he wanted was a subset of a 31-band studio EQ, i.e. just the midrange bands.

The point is - without doing a trace we can't say for sure exactly what Q-values XTS used, but we can look to bigger EQ units for inspiration. IOW, there's a good chance XTS found a representative many-band studio/rackmount EQ and reverse-engineered that (or found a schematic) for hints as to the frequency bands and Q values.
 
I'm planning on customising the EQ points for my Prismatic-build.

What I'd like to know is for the various Boss EQs and derivatives, does anyone know what the Q for the final band-7 (highs) is?
Both the GE-7B and XTS are 4k, but the values to achieve that Hz differ wildly between the two, so I imagine the Q is very different.


BOSS GE-SERIES EQ BAND 7

GEBGEB-7GE-7BXTSFFFX
Capacitor47n27n68n39n?
Resistor820Ω560Ω560Ω1k02?
Q-Factor?????
Hz6k410k4k4k2k5

or if you prefer, same table oriented opposite...

RESISTORCAPACITORQ-FACTORHERTZ
BOSS GEB820Ω47n?6k4
BOSS GEB-7560Ω27n?10k
BOSS GE-7B560Ω68n?4k
XTS1k0239n?4k
FFFX???2k–2k5


BAND COMPARISON

BAND 1BAND 2BAND 3BAND 4BAND 5BAND 6BAND 7
BOSS GE-71002004008001k63k26k4
BOSS GEB-7501204005008004k510k
BOSS GE-7B621252505001k2k4k
XTS MODS4008001k21k62k2k54k
FFFX50120250400/5008001k22k5

Haven't really decided on what band 4 will be, might just split the difference at 450Hz. Also...
I'm not totally married to having Band 7 be 2k5, but 2k's pretty close to what I think I want.


Further to determining Band 7...
What's the result of just doubling the R/C values, what would that get me?
For example: the GE7's 6k4, doubling 47n and 820Ω to 94n & 1640Ω (82n or 100n and 1k6 nearest approximate values) will get me close to 3k2;
but doing the same for the GE-7B or XTS... well that's what made me wonder what the Q factor will be for those.
For my band 7's target Hz of around 2k, I should double the Band-7 values of either the GE-7B or XTS.

So, feeding the R/C combo for Band-7 into AMZ's filter calc matches the info in CR0SSBL4DE's graphs and charts.
I plugged in both the GE-7B and the XTS and both came out at 4k (again there's no info on what the Q is).
Bigger caps = more lows, right? I'm trying to drop band 7 to around 2k, as mentioned, so I should double up on the cap values, right?
Double the resistors, too?

So doubling the R/C, 1k6 and (closest value to 94n) 100n = 995Hz corner frequency in the AMZ R/C calc. NOT going in the right direction.
Scratch doubling the resistor value...
If I retain that 820Ω, but bump just the cap value to that 100n, I get 1941.9Hz on the calc. Getting closer finally!

Continuing with the GE-7 guitar EQ resistor value:
820Ω + 82 n = 2368.2Hz

Boss should know what they're doing, so I'll stick to the GEB-7 and GE-7B bass EQ resistor value and just mess with the cap:
560Ω + 100n = 2843.5Hz
560Ω + 120n = 2369.6Hz
560Ω + 150n = 1895.7Hz

For gits & shiggles, let's see what the XTS resistor value gets while playing with the caps:
1k + 150n = 1061.6Hz
1k + 180n = 884.6Hz oops! Going in the wrong direction!
1k + 120n = 1327Hz
1k + 100n = 1592.4Hz
1k + 82 n = 1941.9Hz
1k + 68 n = 2341.7Hz

So, going Hz value (lowest to highest) nearest my target freq, I'll go with either :
1 k / 68 n = 2341.7Hz
820Ω / 82 n = 2368.2Hz
560Ω / 120n = 2369.6Hz

However, still no clue to the Q.

If I could figure out the Q-factor for those, that would inform my final choice.
I'm thinking I want a wide Q for the final band.

Speaking of Qs — I've got more or less stock values in bands 1,2,3 and then it starts to get crowded in the rest of the bands.
I'm still using stock R/C combos cherry-picked from the Boss values, so I suppose I should have a narrower Q for those crowded bands...


HOW WIDE ?

View attachment 77318


Is the linked AMZ R/C calc the correct online calc for this job?
Overthinking in the wrong direction? Underthinking?
Am I finally on the right track?
Didn't read you fully. Sorry. But the following links may be useful for you:

Consider this design has not constant Q on the bands, so I would recommend you go the easy way: base your design on what commercial circuits are doing, simulate your design to confirm everything responds as expected, and finally build it and maybe adjust it by ear. Since this is the easy way, you may even skip the middle step, if you dare xD
 
Hi everyone

I have gone through this thread. It is filled with tons of terrific info. After getting my head wrapped around what parts to order and getting the correct schematic for the GE-7 I plan to mod (V2), I ordered the parts from Mouser.

At first I was not at all clear on what filters to choose on the Mouser page for Box Film Caps or Resistor beside the values I wanted.

I found this on the Aion Effects site it helped me 'fill in the blanks' so to speak.


Since I have built 3 of these kits which are very much great IMO and the docs were top notch, I felt that the info in that link would guide me through what filters to select.

I have always thought that Box Film Caps like I ordered for this mod could be soldered in the PCB in any direction (e.g. Non-polarized) but I found something called "Outside Foil Lead" and how if caps are not oriented correctly, IOW the Outside Foil Lead is not closest to ground, noise can be an issue.

Is this correct? Does this apply to Box Film Caps? I do not have a scope and have seen videos of folks using alligator clips and their ears to figure it out but those were all done on Canister style caps with the - marked with a Band or Arrow.

I know when I did the Aion kits, I oriented the Box Film style Caps (like I bought for this mod) so that I can easily read the markings. The Aion docs say:

"MLCCs and box capacitors are not polarized and will work in any direction." It says they will work but will there be less noise if oriented a certain way?

Thanks
Brian
 
The short and practical answer is to follow Aion’s docs. Indeed, ceramic (mlcc), film, and mica caps aren’t polarized, and therefore you don’t have to worry about polarity.

That said, I’ve read a bit about film caps potentially having a slight difference in noise performance depending on orientation. To be clear, electrically, they can go either way. But depending on how they are constructed, you might be able to get a tiny shielding effect if oriented a certain way.

I came across this when I built my Trinity Triwatt amp, as it’s mentioned in the docs. At the time I didn’t have the tools to determine the optimal orientation, and everyone said it’s really not necessary.

So, I would be surprised if it makes an audible difference in a pedal. I suspect it’s one of those things that can only be measured with precise equipment. It’s certainly cool for bragging rights though!

As for how to do it, you’d have to first identify this “shield polarity” in the cap, and then understand the circuit schematic to know where you might benefit from a deliberate orientation.
 
The short and practical answer is to follow Aion’s docs. Indeed, ceramic (mlcc), film, and mica caps aren’t polarized, and therefore you don’t have to worry about polarity.

That said, I’ve read a bit about film caps potentially having a slight difference in noise performance depending on orientation. To be clear, electrically, they can go either way. But depending on how they are constructed, you might be able to get a tiny shielding effect if oriented a certain way.

I came across this when I built my Trinity Triwatt amp, as it’s mentioned in the docs. At the time I didn’t have the tools to determine the optimal orientation, and everyone said it’s really not necessary.

So, I would be surprised if it makes an audible difference in a pedal. I suspect it’s one of those things that can only be measured with precise equipment. It’s certainly cool for bragging rights though!

As for how to do it, you’d have to first identify this “shield polarity” in the cap, and then understand the circuit schematic to know where you might benefit from a deliberate orientation.
Thanks MattG.

I do not notice any real noise in my Aion pedals as opposed to some of the analog Boss pedals that I have modded over the year to tame noise. I will not worry about the orientation.

Coincidentally, the first Boss pedal I ever modded was another GE-7 using a Monte Allum kit. It was quite noisy but the one I plan to mod now is actually quieter than the Monte Allum modded GE-7.

The one I plan to mod now is from 2007 and I believe the ICs are different than what is in the first one I modded (Monte Allum mod) is from 2006. Both have a Silver labels.

Brian
 
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well it worked the first time. no odd noises or anything. i will get more time tomorrow to play with it.

i did accidentally pull a grey wire and did not notice it had come off until i was putting it back together.

luckily i have the other GE-7 and found out it connects to the input where the black wire is. whew!

thanks again folks. this was fun.
 
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MattG is on the money, regarding non-polarised caps and noise.

My friend that repairs amps (and has designed amps for companies such as EBS) once showed me (listening tests) how a non-polarised film cap would have less noise when placed in a circuit depending on which lead was used as the input; you've a 50/50 chance if placing them randomly.

As MattG already pointed out, my amp sifu noted the difference is negligible in a guitar pedal, though. If you were building a studio, or an extremely clean hifi system, you might want to suss out which end of each and every capacitor is the "quiet end", as cumulatively it might make a difference; however on a pedalboard...

I just orient my non-polar caps so I can read them all on the PCB, and resistor colour coding are in keeping with the PCB's silkscreen beneath them readling left to right.
 
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