Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask

Harry Klippton said:
Do it
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I actually shifted my ric-o-bass yesterday. It’s bound for climate-controlled storage along with the Marshall stack. I considered encasing it (not the Marshall…it’s bulletproof) in carbonite but that stuff is harder to source than a NOS SAD1024.
You’ve got me seriously looking at the 12er (like that was a challenge eh?), though I doubt I’ll by them together. I hopefully have an upcoming down payment on a home to consider!
 
fig said:
I actually shifted my ric-o-bass yesterday. It’s bound for climate-controlled storage along with the Marshall stack. I considered encasing it (not the Marshall…it’s bulletproof) in carbonite but that stuff is harder to source than a NOS SAD1024.
You’ve got me seriously looking at the 12er (like that was a challenge eh?), though I doubt I’ll by them together. I hopefully have an upcoming down payment on a home to consider!
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Can we see the Marshall?
 
Harry Klippton said:
Can we see the Marshall?
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This is not long before I boxed it up last year.

HC7P9ip.jpg
 
Yep, I see that darned Voodoo PSU that crapped out about that time too! :mad:

That uke sounded great through the JVM :ROFLMAO:
 
For anyone looking at the fender BF RI amps I would strongly recommend watching the Psionic videos on Youtube on how to mod them for longer life. If you can build a pedal you can do this - it's very straightforward and will make a big difference to your amp. Possibly the biggest improvement you can make is to get the filament current off the PCB. For some reason Fender decided to connect the PT filament winding to the PCB and from there to the tubes. They went to all of the trouble of hand-wiring the filaments (quite well too) to the individual tube sockets but all of that current goes via the PCB. It's an easy thing to disconnect the wiring from the board - it attaches with clips - and solder the filament wires from the PT directly to the last tube socket.

This will save your PCB from getting cooked and your amp from failing. Changing the filter caps is easy too.
 
HamishR said:
For anyone looking at the fender BF RI amps I would strongly recommend watching the Psionic videos on Youtube on how to mod them for longer life. If you can build a pedal you can do this - it's very straightforward and will make a big difference to your amp. Possibly the biggest improvement you can make is to get the filament current off the PCB. For some reason Fender decided to connect the PT filament winding to the PCB and from there to the tubes. They went to all of the trouble of hand-wiring the filaments (quite well too) to the individual tube sockets but all of that current goes via the PCB. It's an easy thing to disconnect the wiring from the board - it attaches with clips - and solder the filament wires from the PT directly to the last tube socket.

This will save your PCB from getting cooked and your amp from failing. Changing the filter caps is easy too.
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Thanks for the tip, I have all the supplies here needed for the mod except the amp.
 
HamishR said:
For anyone looking at the fender BF RI amps I would strongly recommend watching the Psionic videos on Youtube on how to mod them for longer life. If you can build a pedal you can do this - it's very straightforward and will make a big difference to your amp. Possibly the biggest improvement you can make is to get the filament current off the PCB. For some reason Fender decided to connect the PT filament winding to the PCB and from there to the tubes. They went to all of the trouble of hand-wiring the filaments (quite well too) to the individual tube sockets but all of that current goes via the PCB. It's an easy thing to disconnect the wiring from the board - it attaches with clips - and solder the filament wires from the PT directly to the last tube socket.

This will save your PCB from getting cooked and your amp from failing. Changing the filter caps is easy too.
Click to expand...
I was just watching some of those YT videos yesterday. I don't even have one of those amps, so I am not sure why. But good knowledge to keep stashed for later.
 
cwsquared said:
I was just watching some of those YT videos yesterday. I don't even have one of those amps, so I am not sure why. But good knowledge to keep stashed for later.
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If you're like me it's just good to know this stuff. Plus I love the way he speaks. It's as if it's all he can do to fix one more sad, inadequate amp.
 
HamishR said:
If you're like me it's just good to know this stuff. Plus I love the way he speaks. It's as if it's all he can do to fix one more sad, inadequate amp.
Click to expand...
That may well be it. Never know when that bit of previously useless knowledge comes on handy.
 
I have a PNP circuit (say a Tone Bender) in a true bypass pedal.
I power the pedal with a standard center negative power supply, the DC jack is connected to a voltage inverter (TC1044SCPA), which sends -9V and positive ground to the circuit board. Everything works and it's daisy chainable.

The LED takes +9V from the DC jack and negative ground from the 3PDT footswitch.

How do I ground the board input on bypass using the footswitch? Can I send it to negative ground using the standard true bypass wiring?

I ask because I'm not sure even after examining several such schematics like the Sunflower.
 
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daeg said:
Negative ground? Ground is just ground mang.
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Having no knowledge of electronics, the concept of ground eludes me. All I know is it's the black wire.

I see circuits referred to as having positive or negative ground and the two shall never mix.

Anyway that means I can wire up the 3pdt as usual, right?
 
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