SWITCH-CRAFT (got any creative uses of switches?)

[Feral Feline]

 

[Feral Feline]

FOR THOSE TIMES YOUR TOGGLE NEEDS VISUAL-AUGMENTATION BY LEDs

[EDIT]
Explanation of the situation:
To get LED indication for an SPDT on-OFF-on toggle (ALL THREE POSITIONS), I had to resort to a 4PDT on-ON-on toggle.
You say: "Why not just look at the position of the BAT?"
Well on a darkened stage away from your pedalboard, you can just look over at it and SEE THE LIGHT, but not the BAT, man. Woah Man!

The left-most 2 poles operate as per the SPST on-off-on. The middle position is off, nothing connected.
The right 2 poles are for manipulating the RGB-LED, getting a colour for even the "OFF" position of the switch.

To reiterate from its original posting:

Toggle Down = top row connected to common, RED & BLUE (gives you magenta)​

​

Toggle Centre = no connection for SW-1, BLUE ONLY​

​

Toggle Up = bottom row connected to common, GREEN & BLUE (gives you cyan)​

NOTE JUMPERS placement.
Make sure you get the right type of 4PDT on-on-on — DPDT equivalent is a TYPE 2. Read the datasheet(s)!

You can mix up the order of colours to taste, and achieve different hues with different CLR value, juggling their values to achieve the desired colour AND brightness.


*** IGNORE R12, that's just there as a reference point from the original circuit this lit-switch was intended for.
R12's NOT PART OF THE SWITCH(ING)!
Use the 4PDT switchery, minus R12, for any situation you want to replace the SPDT on-off-on for same functionality with LED indication.

IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER WAY OF GETTING LED-INDICATION IN THE "OFF" POSITION, PLEASE POST IT IN THIS THREAD!

 

[mckillacuddy]

View attachment 91008
FOR THOSE TIMES YOUR TOGGLE NEEDS VISUAL-AUGMENTATION BY LEDs

Whaa? You’re gonna have to explain this one to the mint-flavored paste kid

 

[Feral Feline]

Whaa? You’re gonna have to explain this one to the mint-flavored paste kid

It's for someone who wanted LED indication for each position of a SPDT on-off-on switch.
Explained in the following quoted post from that thread:

....

View attachment 91009
Toggle Down = top row connected to common, RED & BLUE (gives you magenta)

Toggle Centre = no connection for SW-1, BLUE ONLY

Toggle Up = bottom row connected to common, GREEN & BLUE (gives you cyan)

NOTE the JUMPERS; also, there are different kinds of on-on-on configurations, so make sure you know which configuration your middle position is when ordering 4PDT on-on-on switches. Read the datasheet(s)!

That gives you 3 different colours, one for each position of SW-1. You could stick any of the three colours in the middle position, for instance if you wanted a YELLOW light, you'd combine RED & GREEN.

Since the individual colours on the RGB-LED each have a different forward voltage from their neighbouring colours, it would be best to breadboard the switch to determine what value each CLR needs to be for an even brightness (if so desired!) and colour mixed to taste.


Here's a quick 1-minute primer on colour-mixing with light:

...

I'll edit the post #22 above with the switch diagram.

 

[mckillacuddy]

View attachment 91008
FOR THOSE TIMES YOUR TOGGLE NEEDS VISUAL-AUGMENTATION BY LEDs

[EDIT]
Explanation of the situation:
To get LED indication for an SPDT on-OFF-on toggle (ALL THREE POSITIONS), I had to resort to a 4PDT on-ON-on toggle.
You say: "Why not just look at the position of the BAT?"
Well on a darkened stage away from your pedalboard, you can just look over at it and SEE THE LIGHT, but not the BAT, man. Woah Man!

The left-most 2 poles operate as per the SPST on-off-on. The middle position is off, nothing connected.
The right 2 poles are for manipulating the RGB-LED, getting a colour for even the "OFF" position of the switch.

To reiterate from its original posting:

Toggle Down = top row connected to common, RED & BLUE (gives you magenta)​

​

Toggle Centre = no connection for SW-1, BLUE ONLY​

​

Toggle Up = bottom row connected to common, GREEN & BLUE (gives you cyan)​

NOTE JUMPERS placement.
Make sure you get the right type of 4PDT on-on-on — DPDT equivalent is a TYPE 2. Read the datasheet(s)!

You can mix up the order of colours to taste, and achieve different hues with different CLR value, juggling their values to achieve the desired colour AND brightness.


*** IGNORE R12, that's just there as a reference point from the original circuit this lit-switch was intended for.
R12's NOT PART OF THE SWITCH(ING)!
Use the 4PDT switchery, minus R12, for any situation you want to replace the SPDT on-off-on for same functionality with LED indication.

IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER WAY OF GETTING LED-INDICATION IN THE "OFF" POSITION, PLEASE POST IT IN THIS THREAD!

Now I get it. I looked at “SW-1” and saw an actual switch rather than solder pads. And hadn’t even thought about magneto or ryan, so double thanks.