That was a pot I had that was the same value but didn't have pcb mounts. It's connected to the board with some of the extra lead bits clipped off of capacitors. I am thinking of just pulling it out and using a proper pcb mount pot.Can't see clearly, but the angle of the top right pot in that photo suggests that something is not quite right there
Is your output jack wired correctly? Also can we see a clear picture of the solder side of the board?
I used the tip for positive and the sleeve for ground. Was I supposed to use the tip (switched)??
Well, here is a pic of the other side. Looks nasty. Our stupid cat gets hair everywhere and this board was sitting out on the desk for ages. I ran out of high concentration isopropyl alcohol but this pic made me realize I need to get some!if you did it like you said that is correct. You said their wasn't a diagram on TAYDA, so added it from another post.
what does the other side of your board look like? An audio probe will also be beneficial in moving forward.
Local electronics store has been closed. (Don't have an alligator clip but have the rest of the parts to make an audio probe.) I managed to complete a few other pedals in the mean time.An audio probe will also be beneficial in moving forward.
So I just look at the circuit, start at the beginning and probe each component sequentially. If the issue is the IC itself (and I didn't socket it) would it be possible to remove it without messing up the board? I guess if it was bad, I could just snip the legs... I had bought some sockets with the 2nd order from Tayda so moving forward, I think I will try and use them whenever I can.you can just use the bare wire that would connect to the alligator clip and ground it with a screw in the enclosure, or if it's out of the enclosure wrap it into the ground on the audio jack.
there isn't a schematic yet so I would at least start with your sound coming into the pedal via the input jack, then follow the sound down to your switch, verify you have bypass and then turn on the switch, at that point you should be able to trace it through the switch into the pcb. you may be able to follow the actual traces in the board but you might not. I would always recommend using sockets for IC's as they are sensitive to heat and a nightmare to desolder.So I just look at the circuit, start at the beginning and probe each component sequentially. If the issue is the IC itself (and I didn't socket it) would it be possible to remove it without messing up the board? I guess if it was bad, I could just snip the legs... I had bought some sockets with the 2nd order from Tayda so moving forward, I think I will try and use them whenever I can.