Tator Tot (Barber Burn Unit Small Fry)

[swelchy]

It's getting harder as my "stash" is building up. One thing I've started doing is labelling the back of my pedals with a little thermal print label of what the pedal is.
Since I "play" and "record" sitting at my desk in front of two 32" computer screens, if I'm using a particular pedal I'll pull up the build doc to remind myself what the knobs do. But tbh, a few minutes fiddling with any of the knobs I can usually find the sound I'm looking for.

Having said that, I've been trying my "top secret experiment" with a couple of pedals. Namely, painting the enclosures with rattle cans. I've had some limited success. (And I few failures) If I can get to the point of finding a clear top coat I like, I may start dipping my toes in the water with some knob labels.

Mowahk clears are perfect if you can find a source.. it's real pro stuff as far as an aerosol goes.... My background is 30+ years of liquid coatings tech.

 

[MichaelW]

I have a can of Mohawk nitrocellulose lacquer that I use for doing headstocks.

 

[swyse]

Clean build as always. I hadn’t heard of this circuit before I saw your post but your write up has me intrigued. Did you go for the latching or non latching version of the relay board? Those have always caught my eye, but I still haven’t tried anything to do with relays.

 

[MichaelW]

I used the "Latching" board. I can see how it might not be for everyone, especially in a live band or even floor board situation because there's no tactile feedback switching. But since I'm a "desktop player" and do all my switching by hand it's very sweet.