Tayda Pre Drill Enclosures seem wrong

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bzdunowski

Member
In my last order I order two pre drilled enclosures for my Cobalt Drive builds specifically these Click Here because I figured why have to drill if I can just pay 1-2 dollars more and its all done. The enclosures look great but the hole for the DC power is way too small for the Lumberg DC power jacks I use Click Here so I am wondering what DC power is this small hole between the holes for the input and output jacks for?
 
bzdunowski said:
In my last order I order two pre drilled enclosures for my Cobalt Drive builds specifically these Click Here because I figured why have to drill if I can just pay 1-2 dollars more and its all done. The enclosures look great but the hole for the DC power is way too small for the Lumberg DC power jacks I use Click Here so I am wondering what DC power is this small hole between the holes for the input and output jacks for?
Click to expand...
I use the larger DC jacks all the time (Lumbergs and unbranded), pretty easy to use this smaller hole as your pilot hole for the step drill bit.
 
bzdunowski said:
I assume this one would work too

www.taydaelectronics.com

DC POWER Jack 2.1mm Though Hole Lumberg Brand 1614 19

KARL LUMBERG - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com
Click to expand...
You shouldn't use the metal one as it won't be isolated from the enclosure.
I don't know why Tayda don't have the smaller Lumberg plastic ones, as the ones they're selling are not always great quality wise. Buy a bunch of extra. I've used them in many builds, but had bad ones.
 
SYLV9ST9R said:
You shouldn't use the metal one as it won't be isolated from the enclosure.
I don't know why Tayda don't have the smaller Lumberg plastic ones, as the ones they're selling are not always great quality wise. Buy a bunch of extra. I've used them in many builds, but had bad ones.
Click to expand...
Good point forgot about no metal. Yea I like Lumberg a lot so it sucks Tayda doesnt have the small Lumberg plastic ones. I have a bunch of the normal size Lumberg DC so I guess I will use my step drill bit to expand the hole until I use all of them
 
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bzdunowski said:
Right. I have a bunch of the normal size Lumberg DC so I guess I will use my step drill bit to expand the hole until I use all of them
Click to expand...
It can get a little tight with builds that have 3 potentiometers in the top row, but I find that snipping off the 3rd (battery) lug does the trick.
 
bzdunowski said:
Good point forgot about no metal. Yea I like Lumberg a lot so it sucks Tayda doesnt have the small Lumberg plastic ones. I have a bunch of the normal size Lumberg DC so I guess I will use my step drill bit to expand the hole until I use all of them
Click to expand...
You could always do a custom drill template and enlarge the hole, should be able to get most of the templates for PPCB projects and just change the one hole
 
Also, be careful with the tayda thinline DC jacks. I’ve broken a few center pins on them. If I were you I would either opt for the real deal lumberg ones, or just drill the hole a little larger.
 
thewintersoldier said:
If your soldering/desoldering skills are on point you shouldn't have any issues with innie jacks. Besides your supposed to rock before you box. I bought a ton of outie jacks in bulk a couple years ago. As they dwindled down and shame from IAIGF I moved to innie jacks. No big deal cause I know how to solder properly and I always test before I commit to boxing. Mods and fixing any issue is always easier before it's boxed.
Click to expand...
I always rock before I box but I still don't like that the pedal is stuck inside the enclosure. Also the innie jacks are awkward to tighten.
 
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