Tayda UV Printing

Trying to upload to Tayda, Waited more than an hour after order payment. Filled there form ticked the agree box, selected file for upload, press the upload button, and I get no response,
Very trying to get UV results from Tayda. Hopefully will hear back soon from someone there to address my dilemma.
Don't know if perhaps they are closed over New Year period?? Shaking my head once again.
 
I am super new to the DIY pedal game and don't have the necessary tools to accomplish turning my image that I want printed in to a vector and then export it as a pdf. Can anyone help me? I have access to inkscape and gimp.
Yep, I'm also new, and I'm getting lots of help with my first builds. As it so happens I have Adobe Illustrator and a couple of weeks of holidays, so start a private conversation with me and let's see if I can give you a hand.
 
I ordered my first UV printing job through Tayda as a trial run, although unfortunately it's been sitting in Singapore for 9 days. Hopefully it will move soon. In the meantime, I realise that I didn't order it with a layer of varnish - is that a major issue? Will I need to clear coat it, or is it ok just to leave it as it is?
 
I ordered my first UV printing job through Tayda as a trial run, although unfortunately it's been sitting in Singapore for 9 days. Hopefully it will move soon. In the meantime, I realise that I didn't order it with a layer of varnish - is that a major issue? Will I need to clear coat it, or is it ok just to leave it as it is?
I think it's fine to leave it as is. The gloss varnish layer is more for aesthetics than protection.
 
Just sent off an email to Tayda to see about getting a pedal UV printed. I want more detail than what I can do with paint pens and I am interested in the process. I will chronicle how the experience goes for those that are interested, I do not have illustrator so we will see if they accept a file created with Inkscape. Here is what the enclosure should look like when done:
View attachment 6745
It just came in. I will make a build report when it is done. Ordered Nov, 24 with post shipping to east coast USA.View attachment 8282
I'm sorry if I quote these large images, but I was a bit worried about the so different color between the template where the image appear deeply red, and the printed enclosure where it's a pale orange.

But now, anyway, I'm trying to don't use Illustrator or Affinity Designer, thing I have to do sooner or later, I guess.
I want a just natural enclosure printed, dmnCrawler told me, if I don't get wrong in that case I don't need the WHITE layer (not for white text or drawn nor for background the COLOR layer), and using Inkscape it's perfect.
For the COLOR layer (red, blue... included black, right?) I have to use with Inkscape CMYK (not RGB), and I guess I can do it.
Considering that I need just the COLOR layer am I ok with the PDF files that Tayda needs? Do I have to expect problem with the fonts?
 
For the COLOR layer (red, blue... included black, right?) I have to use with Inkscape CMYK (not RGB), and I guess I can do it.
Considering that I need just the COLOR layer am I ok with the PDF files that Tayda needs? Do I have to expect problem with the fonts?
Inkscape could only do RGB last time I checked.
 
I'm sorry if I quote these large images, but I was a bit worried about the so different color between the template where the image appear deeply red, and the printed enclosure where it's a pale orange.

But now, anyway, I'm trying to don't use Illustrator or Affinity Designer, thing I have to do sooner or later, I guess.
I want a just natural enclosure printed, dmnCrawler told me, if I don't get wrong in that case I don't need the WHITE layer (not for white text or drawn nor for background the COLOR layer), and using Inkscape it's perfect.
For the COLOR layer (red, blue... included black, right?) I have to use with Inkscape CMYK (not RGB), and I guess I can do it.
Considering that I need just the COLOR layer am I ok with the PDF files that Tayda needs? Do I have to expect problem with the fonts?
The newest version of Inkscape will do CMYK. You will need to select all your text and go to Path -> Object to path to convert them. Most things are in the tutorial I created. If you need any other information just ask. You may be able to get away with a single layer PDF right from Inkscape but I have not tried it.
 
Just print on vinyl paper, its cheap and come out amazing.. Thats how I do all.my graphics
I always printed on transparent adhesive sheets and sometime on white adhesive sheets. But I have a cheap printer, it gave me often new problems. I can't use at home spray, etc., too.
Probably for my build I'll go for this cheap method, I never spent too much for the look of my pedal and I don't care about it, but sometime one of my friends ask me for something more professional than labels on the box.

The newest version of Inkscape will do CMYK. You will need to select all your text and go to Path -> Object to path to convert them. Most things are in the tutorial I created. If you need any other information just ask. You may be able to get away with a single layer PDF right from Inkscape but I have not tried it.

Thanks for the help. I'll read better your tutorial.
I can't see the files of your personal work of the tutorial. I don't know if you thought about to share your files, maybe you don't want to do it. I thought maybe is useful for someone like me open and check your Inkscape and PDF file, and, I don't know, maybe use it like model file?
No worry if you don't want to share it, your tutorial is the best shared of this topic, with no offense for the other people, of course.
 
I always printed on transparent adhesive sheets and sometime on white adhesive sheets. But I have a cheap printer, it gave me often new problems. I can't use at home spray, etc., too.
Probably for my build I'll go for this cheap method, I never spent too much for the look of my pedal and I don't care about it, but sometime one of my friends ask me for something more professional than labels on the box.



Thanks for the help. I'll read better your tutorial.
I can't see the files of your personal work of the tutorial. I don't know if you thought about to share your files, maybe you don't want to do it. I thought maybe is useful for someone like me open and check your Inkscape and PDF file, and, I don't know, maybe use it like model file?
No worry if you don't want to share it, your tutorial is the best shared of this topic, with no offense for the other people, of course.
In the second paragraph of the tutorial there is a link to the template SVG file that I used. It is based off the PedalPCB 6 Knob type 1 layout. You can work through the tutorial with your own graphics. I did not want to use the completed file as it is a direct ripoff of the JHS pedal.
 
In the second paragraph of the tutorial there is a link to the template SVG file that I used. It is based off the PedalPCB 6 Knob type 1 layout. You can work through the tutorial with your own graphics. I did not want to use the completed file as it is a direct ripoff of the JHS pedal.
The tutorial is so awesome and specific! Thanks for putting that together!

I'm having one issue, I wonder if you can help with: I've been able to import swatches into Affinity and apply them to the white and gloss layers, but when I export to PDF it seems that the spot colors get converted to CMYK. I've been tinkering with my export settings and asking Hugo 'Did it work this time?' but still no success... I'm wondering if there's an Affinity export preset that has everything needed, or if Compatibility, Color Space, or something else needs to be changed?

Hugo has been wicked patient with me, and is an awesome guy, but I'm still pulling my hair out...
 
The tutorial is so awesome and specific! Thanks for putting that together!

I'm having one issue, I wonder if you can help with: I've been able to import swatches into Affinity and apply them to the white and gloss layers, but when I export to PDF it seems that the spot colors get converted to CMYK. I've been tinkering with my export settings and asking Hugo 'Did it work this time?' but still no success... I'm wondering if there's an Affinity export preset that has everything needed, or if Compatibility, Color Space, or something else needs to be changed?

Hugo has been wicked patient with me, and is an awesome guy, but I'm still pulling my hair out...

So far I have only sent the color layer. I will be sending out a few this week with the white and gloss layers and update with what I learn.
 
So far I have only sent the color layer. I will be sending out a few this week with the white and gloss layers and update with what I learn.
For what it's worth, I just recently sent a design with only a White Layer and a Gloss Layer that was designed with Affinity Designer and although the product came back printed, the Roland swatch color that I used for those layers did not properly get translated. So my hunch is that Affinity Designer is not the best option if you want White and Gloss Layer. My 2 Cents.

*** UPDATE 1 -- I think I may have figured out what's going on in Affinity Designer that is not carrying the Roland Spot color over to export. You must import the Roland Swatches into your document as a Document Palette and then export as PDF with color being from the document -- if not, it will just get converted into a CMYK color. I sent the revised pdf file to Hugo for verification but this may be the issue. What this means is that you have to import the Roland swatches every time you create a design or create a master template first and work off of that. Will update tis post once I hear back from Hugo. ***
 
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For what it's worth, I just recently sent a design with only a White Layer and a Gloss Layer that was designed with Affinity Designer and although the product came back printed, the Roland swatch color that I used for those layers did not properly get translated. So my hunch is that Affinity Designer is not the best option if you want White and Gloss Layer. My 2 Cents.

*** UPDATE 1 -- I think I may have figured out what's going on in Affinity Designer that is not carrying the Roland Spot color over to export. You must import the Roland Swatches into your document as a Document Palette and then export as PDF with color being from the document -- if not, it will just get converted into a CMYK color. I sent the revised pdf file to Hugo for verification but this may be the issue. What this means is that you have to import the Roland swatches every time you create a design or create a master template first and work off of that. Will update tis post once I hear back from Hugo. ***
I'm super curious to know if that's the case. It kind of makes sense, as much as any of this spot color stuff makes sense to me...
 
Two quick questions:

1) I ordered a yellow enclosure with only black text and graphics on the COLOR layer, but I didn't do a white layer underneath, should that still be OK?

2) I just noticed in the Tayda instructions about the strokeless, colourless box in the COLOR layer - what is that for? I left that out, is that a biggie?
 
Two quick questions:

1) I ordered a yellow enclosure with only black text and graphics on the COLOR layer, but I didn't do a white layer underneath, should that still be OK?

2) I just noticed in the Tayda instructions about the strokeless, colourless box in the COLOR layer - what is that for? I left that out, is that a biggie?
2. I left that out too, I think that's just part of their sample file. I don't think that matters at all...

1. Black should print fine over yellow. You'll only run into a problem when printing lighter colors on darker enclosures...

3. I may have figured out the white spot color issue, and with the help of a friend who works with illustrator everyday I was able to test it out... It turns out that creating a spot color in affinity is necessary (and way more cumbersome than I would have thought), even if the Roland color palette is used.

Here's the way I did it:

Import the Roland palette,
create a new global color,
use the same color value as the Roland swatch,
set it as a spot color,
name it RDG_WHITE2,
Apply it to the items in your white layer,
Delete the original white swatch,
Rename the new spot color RDG_WHITE,
Pour beer,
Repeat for RDG_GLOSS,

After all the spot color nonsense is over (And I think jcrhee is right, you'll have to do the above for each document) export as PDF/X 4...

I'll confirm that this worked for real after Hugo gets back to me.
 
hi everybody! first post here. just wanted to know if you have any idea if tayda would be able to print on the sides of the enclosures or the frontpanel only?
Cheers
 
From their website:
Enclosure UV Printing Service
Thank you for your interest with our new UV printing service. We can print on 1590B, 125B, 1590BB and 1590XX enclosures face.

Seems like it is face only at this stage.
 
From their website:
Enclosure UV Printing Service
Thank you for your interest with our new UV printing service. We can print on 1590B, 125B, 1590BB and 1590XX enclosures face.

Seems like it is face only at this stage.
thanks. i missed that!
 
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