Tayda UV Printing

This forum overall, and especially this thread have been such an awesome resource! Thank you everybody!

Just wanted to share a couple things that I've learned with my last couple of orders:

1. The gloss varnish makes colors look more vibrant, and (to me) feels more premium than the matte varnish or no varnish options. I usually love matte when I'm spraying, but Tayda's seems too pebbly​
2. High res raster will print fine, but don't tell Hugo. (The cloud illustration isn't vectorized)​
3. Raw aluminum enclosures are candidates for print. I hadn't wondered about this until recently, but last order came in fine with no questions asked.​
4. Personally, I think the one pass of white is enough. Though I'm curious compare to double passes... PXL_20210319_212335262.jpg PXL_20210319_212344341.jpg PXL_20210319_212503947.jpg PXL_20210319_212552437.jpg
 
This forum overall, and especially this thread have been such an awesome resource! Thank you everybody!

Just wanted to share a couple things that I've learned with my last couple of orders:

1. The gloss varnish makes colors look more vibrant, and (to me) feels more premium than the matte varnish or no varnish options. I usually love matte when I'm spraying, but Tayda's seems too pebbly​
2. High res raster will print fine, but don't tell Hugo. (The cloud illustration isn't vectorized)​
3. Raw aluminum enclosures are candidates for print. I hadn't wondered about this until recently, but last order came in fine with no questions asked.​
4. Personally, I think the one pass of white is enough. Though I'm curious compare to double passes...View attachment 10477View attachment 10478View attachment 10479View attachment 10480

Great looking enclosures!
Can I ask you how did you prepare the files and in which extensions did you send them to Tayda?
I'm also preparing a first order and I do have a design of white on matte black sand. So I should use a kind of varnish?
 
Great looking enclosures!
Can I ask you how did you prepare the files and in which extensions did you send them to Tayda?
I'm also preparing a first order and I do have a design of white on matte black sand. So I should use a kind of varnish?
Thanks! I used Affinity, went through the whole process of using the Tayda template, creating spot colors from scratch, convert to CMYK, set up / name the layers and then saving that file as my own template. Now whenever I prepare new artwork, I dump it in to my template and have the spot colors already there. That's been a time saver... When I export, I use the PDFX4 setting and confirm that 'honor spot colors' is on...

I would recommend either the gloss or emboss varnish, it makes the colors more vibrant/saturated I think. It also makes a simple black on black look possible on the sand or matte black enclosures. I think that looks cool...
 
This forum overall, and especially this thread have been such an awesome resource! Thank you everybody!

Just wanted to share a couple things that I've learned with my last couple of orders:

1. The gloss varnish makes colors look more vibrant, and (to me) feels more premium than the matte varnish or no varnish options. I usually love matte when I'm spraying, but Tayda's seems too pebbly​
2. High res raster will print fine, but don't tell Hugo. (The cloud illustration isn't vectorized)​
3. Raw aluminum enclosures are candidates for print. I hadn't wondered about this until recently, but last order came in fine with no questions asked.​
4. Personally, I think the one pass of white is enough. Though I'm curious compare to double passes...View attachment 10477View attachment 10478View attachment 10479View attachment 10480
Oh man, they look great. Wish I wasn’t such a lazy ass :D
 
This forum overall, and especially this thread have been such an awesome resource! Thank you everybody!

Just wanted to share a couple things that I've learned with my last couple of orders:

1. The gloss varnish makes colors look more vibrant, and (to me) feels more premium than the matte varnish or no varnish options. I usually love matte when I'm spraying, but Tayda's seems too pebbly​
2. High res raster will print fine, but don't tell Hugo. (The cloud illustration isn't vectorized)​
3. Raw aluminum enclosures are candidates for print. I hadn't wondered about this until recently, but last order came in fine with no questions asked.​
4. Personally, I think the one pass of white is enough. Though I'm curious compare to double passes...​
Oh man, those look awesome!
 
Have you guys managed to get a decently strong red? The cmyk red isn't exactly red, it's a bit orange.

What cmyk values are you using? I assume 0,100,100,0, and are you printing white beneath it?

I usually use cmyk formulations of pantone 185c (0,100,89,0) or 485c (0,95,100,0) for standard bright reds which are less orange but the cmyk gamut is inherently more limited than rgb, especially when it comes to vividness. I have some enclosures coming soon with at least one of these and I'll post it when it arrives
 
I just sent out 3 new designs to Tayda. All only using Inkscape and Affinity Designer. I even did one that is black ink on the black sand enclosure with the emboss finish over top. That way we can see what black out pedals will look like. Wish me luck.

View attachment 10470
I'm curious, did you include the same exact design on the "white" layer, so the printer lays down a pass of white for the design before adding the black on top? I wonder if that helps increase the contrast ever so slightly. Otherwise, I would imagine there could be some issues with registration/things lining up perfectly.

Also, did you use a simple black CMYK blend? (C0, M0, Y0, K100)? Or did you go with a rich black build (C75, M68, Y67, B98)?
 
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I'm curious, did you include the same exact design on the "white" layer, so the printer lays down a pass of white for the design before adding the black on top? I wonder if that helps increase the contrast ever so slightly. Otherwise, I would imagine there could be some issues with registration/things lining up perfectly.

Also, did you use a simple black CMYK blend? (C0, M0, Y0, K100)? Or did you go with a rich black build (C75, M68, Y67, B98)?
For what it’s worth, I have a file setup for a black on black for one of my next orders. Thought about it for a while and settled on havit setup with the complete design on:
- the white layer
- the color layer in rich black (I used 60,40,40,100 personally)
- gloss layer

I could see getting away without the white layer on the matte sand vs regular and regular matte black but I wouldn’t tempt it personally
 
Here they are:

20210325_134506 (Medium).jpg 20210325_134521 (Medium).jpg 20210325_134844 (Medium).jpg

Affinity will allow the multiple layers even if it does not open in Illustrator that way. These are all 3 layer designs. I will pay for the extra pass of white on black next time though.

I just sent out 3 new designs to Tayda. All only using Inkscape and Affinity Designer. I even did one that is black ink on the black sand enclosure with the emboss finish over top. That way we can see what black out pedals will look like. Wish me luck.

View attachment 10468View attachment 10469View attachment 10470

In case anyone is wondering [ you probably aren't] the little thing in color is a rat fetus. I figured it was fitting since this is the life pedal and it is a modified rat. Clever huh :ROFLMAO:. It's probably just gonna look like a smudge when it comes back.
 
I need to try some more designs again. Does anyone have some Affinity templates worked out for a good starting point?

Edit: I see that I actually saved one from my first attempt, which only used a white and a gloss layer. I'm interested in learning about adding color. Maybe I will learn something if I look back in the past 12 pages.
 
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I need to try some more designs again. Does anyone have some Affinity templates worked out for a good starting point?
Looks great. That black on black emboss seems to have turned out nicely.
What varnish did you use on the locomotive?
Also used emboss on that. I like the exaggerated way it raises the ink.

I found that the white is still not working right. I checked and the spot colors seem to be correct but I think they are getting printed on the color layer as well as the darker gray. This does not happen with the Illustrator files. I am going to contact them and see. Because all the lettering on the Closed Circuit is only on the white layer and it is coming out way too dark.
 
Just so I am clear; you did white, black and emboss passes on that Parenthesis enclosure?

Yes. But the white is only behind the little rat fetus in the middle of the pedals.

All the blackout has black ink in the color layer and emboss in the emboss layer but no white layer.

I have attached the file I sent to Tayda.
 

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