WD40 Contact Cleaner?

I've tried them all, hot-wax types, thin formulations for "dry" & thick for "wet" riding conditions, yada yadda dis dat n t'other ting. It's all bollocks.
Now I just use whatever's handy (apart from the wax 🤪). Some stuff I've had to apply a few times during a ride, other stuff lasts a few days before turning filthy black.

The main thing is to just keep your chain clean and lubed. That's it. Measure a foot's worth of a new chain centre to centre of the pins and keep an eye on the chain stretch, replace it sooner than later. That and keeping your chain clean & lubed will save you $$$ in the long-ride on expensive chainrings and cogsets.
 
Furthermore, standard original WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, but rather a solvent (with perhaps some mild lubricating elements mixed in with it). It was originally designed to ungum stuck nuts on bolts etc.

JamieJ, what parts on your bike are you spraying regular WD-40 on?
Incidentally, common dishwashing liquid is really bad for your bike's paint job. Better to use a cleaning agent designed for cars.


Kroars, are you taking pics with your phone horizontally? It'll appear on your phone correctly, but post sideways. I've had this issue with my old "smart" phone — the only work-around for me was to take all the photos with the phone held vertically.
All photos taken vertically. Although, now that you mention it, perhaps I’ll start taking the photos horizontally that I plan to post to the forum. I’ve noticed that if I go to edit the photo and rotate it right 90 degrees and then back left 90 degrees (to end up in the original position) then post it on the forum it’s correct -but that’s too much work.
 
Yup, I've experienced the same phone-photo-gremlins, and came to the same conclusion, too much work.

Testing out the horizontal method, I had upside down horizontal pictures the first time I tried it. So I had to flip the phone 180º and then it worked, mostly.
 
WD-40: Water Displacement formula #40.

I guess formulas 1-39 were duds.

WD-40 does have some lubricating properties, but they're short lived and mild. It's better for breaking the surface tension of water and occupying the space that the water used to occupy.

Good for cleaning rusty parts. Good for freeing up siezed fasteners (though I gotta admit I'm a bigger fan of aero kroil). Not so good for lubrication.

Personally, I'm a fan of good ol mineral oil in a zoom spout for all purpose lube, graphite for a dry lube. Micronized PTFE freaks me out.

...oh, this is a thread about contact cleaner?
 
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WD-40: Water Displacement formula #40.

I guess formulas 1-39 were duds.

WD-40 does have some lubricating properties, but they're short lived and mild. It's better for breaking the surface tension of water and occupying the space that the water used to occupy.

Good for cleaning rusty parts. Good for freeing up siezed fasteners (though I gotta admit I'm a bigger fan of aero kroil). Not so good for lubrication.

Personally, I'm a fan of good ol mineral oil in a zoom spout for all purpose lube, graphite for a dry lube. Micronized PTFE freaks me out.

...oh, this is a thread about contact cleaner?
That’s my fault - I derailed this thread 🤣
 
Sorry to derailleur the thread again, but a friend once coated his MTB's brake rotors in oil to get rid of the squeal. 😹

I once adjusted yet another friend's MTB's brakes to work better but squeal more, 'cause he'd been giving me a hard time about something t'other (my bike-mechanic skills perhaps, or lack thereof) and then had the audacity to ask me to fix his brakes, improve their power.
He knew right away what I'd done. 😸 The whole ride "Shriek Shriek SHRIEK" 😹 He also knew not to pester me to fix the squeal lest I do something worse, but after the ride I adjusted the brakes again for no-squeal. 😼
 
Hell with it.

I have to grease bearings every now and then at work. Some take lithium, good general purpose stuff. Then some very specifically take polyurea.

Poly...urea.

Like...many pee? In the latin?
 
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Sorry to derailleur the thread again, but a friend once coated his MTB's brake rotors in oil to get rid of the squeal. 😹

I once adjusted yet another friend's MTB's brakes to work better but squeal more, 'cause he'd been giving me a hard time about something t'other (my bike-mechanic skills perhaps, or lack thereof) and then had the audacity to ask me to fix his brakes, improve their power.
He knew right away what I'd done. 😸 The whole ride "Shriek Shriek SHRIEK" 😹 He also knew not to pester me to fix the squeal lest I do something worse, but after the ride I adjusted the brakes again for no-squeal. 😼

I commuted by bike full time for over three years and always adjusted my brakes to be as loud as possible. I found that it's a much more attention grabbing/terrifying sound than a bell.
 
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Fun fact...lubricate a bearing with polyurea that's still got a bunch of lithium in it, and you might as well be using pee.

Only learn that one once. Hopefully.
 
On a serious note, my last trip to home Depot I picked up a can to try out. Works pretty good I must say. It gives the results I would get if I scrubbed the board with 99% ipa with a tooth brush, only I didn't scrub. Sprayed once let dry, sprayed again and all was off the board.
Wait, you didn't even have to scrub the flux? I'mma have to get me a can.
 
On a serious note, my last trip to home Depot I picked up a can to try out. Works pretty good I must say. It gives the results I would get if I scrubbed the board with 99% ipa with a tooth brush, only I didn't scrub. Sprayed once let dry, sprayed again and all was off the board.
After reading this decided to try using deoxit like this.

Sprayed a good amount and let it dry. Didn’t seem to be much happening so I used a brush super light across it. Only used one hand because I didn’t want to touch the still drying deoxit. Similar results imo, comparable results to longer and harder scrubbing with ipa but in 30 seconds. Very cool to learn.

before and after. even globbed on some extra flux for the before

think i’m done with using ipa for a while :)

C214BBA4-62D9-4963-942D-657B4B940CB5.jpeg 0E847C05-EA2A-4DE1-A40B-6C2D814BCFD2.jpeg
 
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