What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

IMG_1148.jpeg It’s pretty much finished, but I need a new potentiometer - overheated the track I think moving a couple wires. Oops.

Anyways, Rosser ash body in reverse jazz master with a maple/maple baritone neck (27”) that I stained with Angelus leather dyes.. It took a while to actually find one, but it came from China and honestly, really well made. Filtertron pickups. Had it together with a regular neck earlier, but wanted to make it a baritone. I now know why the baritone guitars are fun to play.
 
Gordo said:
That looks REALLY nice. Killer grain on the ash and I like how clean and simple it looks.
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Ash is fun to work with, but this is heavy (not swamp ash) northern ash.

Secret finish tip: use a stiff wire brush to make the grain pores a little deeper than the surface. Use a black dye to lightly coat the body. Sand back to 320/400. Stain with the color of your choice.
 
No knob holes drilled! Other than that, they forgot the back plate, and the bridge post holes are a millimeter too wide. I'm going to try some mahogany 1mm shim strips in the post holes. I can't find the right sized dowels and I don't have a drill press. Seems like I can just glue a few shims in one side of the hole.
 
Erik S said:
If you can find a dowel that's slightly too big, you could try drilling the existing holes up to a larger size to match your dowels.

Or, if you've got a cordless drill with a large enough chuck to grip the dowel and some sandpaper, you could work the dowels down to size.
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Or the poor man's dowel, via wood turning: If the dowel isn't long enough for this trick, grab an old paintbrush with a stick handle, break it off and chuck it in a drill and press it at high speed into a hole of some hard-ish metal object that's the right size...

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jwin615 said:
Yep. Relays at the top makes the most sense. Right between the jacks. Then, when bypassed the signal is only traveling a short amount of trace, far away from the rest of the pedal circuit. Take the switch to the IO board(via 2 traces on the main PCB for tidiness. Attach IO board to main PCB via pin headers. The only wires in the entire pedal would be from the footswitch.
This is the IO board that's in my head that I'm unable to turn into a physical reality, yet.
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That’s more or less the VFE bypass scheme on the newer stuff I think
 
Scored this mic on Reverb. I had haggled him down a bit but once it showed up it wasn't working. The buyer was great and immediately gave a full refund and said I could keep it. I found a couple of snagged wires inside so we'll see if replacing them fixes it. I had to order some AWG 24, 26, 28 and 30 ptfe wire for the repair but I'll let y'all know how it works out.
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Just tried fret end file from Chris Alsop. Quick test with string in place gave great results. Cannot wait to get real into fret work with my worn out CS-250 with leveling and crowning.
 
JohnnyCreepy said:
Just tried fret end file from Chris Alsop. Quick test with string in place gave great results. Cannot wait to get real into fret work with my worn out CS-250 with leveling and crowning.
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He has some cool tools at better than Stew Mac prices. Too bad I'm in an isolationist country.
 
LukeFRC said:
Tayda delivery day!

:)
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It was a new project and a 3pdt breakout board

Early this year I tired PCBA for the first time and made these lovely prunes and custard clones in Gorva M45 (1590A) with top jacks. I made 6, one for me, one for the friend who suggested trying it and sold 4 of them locally.
Then a guy from Canada got in touch on a uk bass forum, begged to buy my own one and send it to his mum who was on holiday in the uk... I did and then sold him my personal one.


Oh and Lumberg stop making the DC jacks I was using...


Fast forward a few months and I source good parts and stuff to complete another four of these builds...
It's 1590a size so it's more fiddly than normal - Put it together - and works first time and sounds great.
So box it up, tighten everything up and stick it where it used to be... in the loop of my HX stomp...


And suddenly it all goes crazy - massive clippin, noise, feedback squeals everything turning red, the neighbours organising a lynching and the end of the world... WTF is going on...

So bug fix

and bug fix


check all the joints

cut off all my wiring to check its not the breakout board

reflow every joint...

crazy noise. even when off now... what's happening - am I just plugging 9v DC into the jack return or something?


stick it elsewhere in my chain, without the switch by now and - Ahhh it works and sounds great....

plug it in the loop and ARRRHGGGHHH!


What have I done wrong?












Turns out, if you have a patch with both Left and right loop send/return on a HX stomp - and use a TRS -> dual TS splitter cable and loop into loop left.... and just leave loop right unplugged...

All sorts of bad shit happens - nothing to do with my bloody pedal.

Plug in the loop, I guess so there's ground connection, or delete the unused effects loop block and you're fine.Thats two hours of my life I'm never getting back.


but hey you know, I've switched to lead free solder, so my joy of soldering is gone too, so all ok, everyone happy (not), and I've a bigger mess to fix tomorrow than I started with this evening!
 
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