What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Alright, I think this is coming together. Here's how the color coding works: black is for cuts, green for engraving and red for "marking" the outline of shapes, although I have been keeping that off lately since it doesn't seem to significantly improve the end result. I am going to try and use a different approach this time: reverse engraving, which seems pretty cool. I already ordered some reverse engraveable materials and acrylic paint.

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I spend couple hours today figuring out why 5th string on my freshly fretworked Aria gives ringing overtones and sustainless note. Messed with bridge, insulated PU springs with shrinktube, adjusted and filed nut, adjusted PU height, tighened every screw and thought tuner might be the problem maker. Opened it up, gave it some lube AND replaced few weeks old 0.020w string with a fresh 0.017p. No buzzing overtone anymore. 😒

Also whats on bench now is my friends old Japanese Stagg SG which I fixed year ago, but now it needs some wiring and switch maintenance. Gonna also change tone controls too as bass cut I installed last year is useless on this.

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”What’s in your fireplace”
 
JohnnyCreepy said:
I spend couple hours today figuring out why 5th string on my freshly fretworked Aria gives ringing overtones and sustainless note. Messed with bridge, insulated PU springs with shrinktube, adjusted and filed nut, adjusted PU height, tighened every screw and thought tuner might be the problem maker. Opened it up, gave it some lube AND replaced few weeks old 0.020w string with a fresh 0.017p. No buzzing overtone anymore. 😒

Also whats on bench now is my friends old Japanese Stagg SG which I fixed year ago, but now it needs some wiring and switch maintenance. Gonna also change tone controls too as bass cut I installed last year is useless on this.

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”What’s in your fireplace”
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Sounds like the nut slot was off a bit.
 
Been a while since I committed one of my perf-layouts to real 3D-perf.

I posted about this back at the beginning of August, and I finally got around to it today, but not before revising the layout several more times.
I whittled it down from 9x13 to 6x12 by using 1/8w resistors and the evil tants, 'cause as always I'm cramming in more than space will allow...


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Yes, the solder-side is messier than hell — I was trying to meet a self-imposed deadline... Let's just say "deadlines" and I have never got along.

The very first pad I touched lifted, but thankfully none of the others did.

This is also the first IC I've not socketed, IIRC.


Tomorrow I'll check it over and if all is good I'll then stuff it in the enclosure.
 
JohnnyCreepy said:
That’s what I thought too, but pressing string over nut slot didn’t change the buzz nor making sure slot is filed to the right size. I’m leaning more towards faulty winded string with soon failing core.
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Uncommon but definitely possible. I once found a flat wound string whose windings abruptly stopped near the string ball (is that the term?!?) right around the neck pickup so there was a discontinuity there and the string got thinner after. This caused a very weird and noticeable sitar like sound. I emailed D’Addario and they sent me replacement strings after seeing the issue.
 
jessenator said:
My eyes hurt I rolled them so hard

😉

Exactly my thoughts. @bean had a G series a few years back, and I did a Rat, Green Ringer, and Bean's own Bacon Bits in that size. The G2 would make drilling the jacks less of a perspirant.
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Believe it or not, the G2 got made because I contacted Hammond and asked them to do it :) I'm not saying that to brag (well maybe a little, haha), rather, if any of you guys have an idea for an enclosure size you should consider requesting it from Hammond directly. They were very receptive at the time and I think there are many possible unique enclosure ideas that could be great for new pedals designs. Any one of you could be the inventor of the next awesome pedal box. @Robert could probably invent a unique PedalPCB format.
 
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