What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Some fuzzy guys (and one anti-fuzzy guy)...

I knew I'd loved the Frantones, but had forgotten just how fond of them I was. Might need to whip up a parallel box for em
received_529986742530752.jpeg

Also, no mods to any of the circuits I've populated today, except the Ionosphere. Had to lower the 15n in the first feedback loop to a more moderate 100p :ROFLMAO:

And, the Creme Pie has infrared and white LEDs, but I'd not consider that a mod
 
Last edited:

A  barely tweaked Chalumeau - lifted pins 1 & 8 of the 386n-4. 9203 LDR, ultrabright diffused red 5mm, HT8970.
I don't have any 2399s on hand, so can't currently compare

Only really dirties up when I dig in on the bridge pickup

View attachment 42338
Wait, so is the HT8970 equivalent to the PT2399? I had no idea (never used the HT8970). Is there any general sound difference between them?

The Clari(not) is still one of my favorite pedals ever, such wild shit comes out of that little box!
 
Wait, so is the HT8970 equivalent to the PT2399? I had no idea (never used the HT8970). Is there any general sound difference between them?

The Clari(not) is still one of my favorite pedals ever, such wild shit comes out of that little box!
Yes, the HT8970 is pin compatible. It has less than half the RAM of the 2399, and a lower minimum delay time (better for chorus and the like).
Soundwise, the HT degrades and distorts quicker than the PT with longer delay times. I love the HT in modulation based circuits like the Sea Machine, Florist, and now the Chalumeau.
 
Last edited:
I love that I make my own patch cables but I hate making them lol. Is that regular size instrument cable? I made like 20 cables when I first wired up my board with those type plugs and regular instrument cable and for longer lengths they can get thick for routing. These are just little guys so probably not a big deal but when I did a board for a friend I went with all squareplug and mogami 2319 and it was amazing. Very easy to route and bend and the low profile jacks are awesome. I’m about to completely rewrite my board and I have a feeling I’m going to bite the bullet and get the square plugs. Just my $.02
It is regular instrument cable. I made most of them between 5-6 inches and 2 of them are from going top to bottom row so they are a little longer. I used what I did because I had it all on hand already and being top mount on all my pedals I wouldn't be saving any real estate by using the compact square plugs and smaller cable. If I had side mount jacks and needed to save space then I would go that route but this was me being cheap. 2023 is the year of using what we already have.
 
Tone Bender MKII. Sounds great, loud and bright but still fat.
Had to add a power filtering cap to get rid of the howling.
I think the transistors are all around hFE 90-100 and leakage below 100uA. Q3c is below -6.7V.
Trying out transistors is exhausting. At one point I found one for Q2 that gave me the classic -8V on Q3c and it barely made a sound.

Also I hate breadboards. Small leads flail all over the place, thick leads don't fit the holes, jumpers crackle and I hate everything :)

View attachment 42388
This might be a question for a future build report but what did you do to compensate for the low leakage on Q1? I really want to take on a Mk II at some point but figure I should get some less finicky PNP builds under my belt first.
 
This might be a question for a future build report but what did you do to compensate for the low leakage on Q1? I really want to take on a Mk II at some point but figure I should get some less finicky PNP builds under my belt first.
Nothing. I think the circuit needs some leakage but something like 60-70uA seems enough. I tried leakier transistors up to 600+ uA and all they did was either add a ton of noise or not work at all.

I don't know anything about electronics so I just shoot in the dark. I cant seem to get Q3c closer to -8V but what I have sounds good to me.

Frankly this is exhausting :)
 
A0E7A019-693A-488A-86F0-8AAF4B483176.jpeg

Woke up this morning to a dead furnace, right when the temp’s dropping (-5C -> -28C).

No blown fuses, no visible trouble signs (bulging caps, gas-smell, etc), vent isn’t blocked/broken ‘cause its twin shares the same vent and twin continues to work…

HVAC-Buddy should be here in a half-hour or so…

UPDATE: friend fixed it in about 15 minutes!
Saved me an expensive emergency-visit; I owe him one, big time.
 
Last edited:
View attachment 42603

Woke up this morning to a dead furnace, right when the temp’s dropping (-5C -> -28C).

No blown fuses, no visible trouble signs (bulging caps, gas-smell, etc), vent isn’t blocked/broken ‘cause its twin shares the same vent and twin continues to work…

HVAC-Buddy should be here in a half-hour or so…
Fingers crossed that it can be fixed for little money.

I had a scare with my gas furnace recently. It was sometimes igniting too late, with too much gas lighting up and kind of ... exploding. The blaze was loud and moved so much air my front door would slam. Luckily they were able to fix it for the equivalent of 80 dollars.
The alternative was replacing the whole furnace and my landlord wanted me to pay 50%. Crisis averted for now.
 
I have to clean off the corrosion from my thermocouple every other year or it won’t ignite. It’s a five minute fix, but a $100 house call if you don’t know what to do.
 
Back
Top