What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
rwl
Well-known member
The dry ice looks good, but now you need to upgrade the towel background!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Friend’s Tiki Drive, gonna take a boo…
tegendemuur
Well-known member
Granddad's junk box, in dad's garage, for my bits and pieces needs. A snapped screw, this time!
Pauleo1214
Well-known member
1970's Gitane. My first downtube shifter. It rides like an old bike! Trued the wheels, the only other issue is the brakes get stuck.
Stickman393
Well-known member
Boy that's a lot of offboard wiring.
Edit: yup. 16 conductors going to a 4P3T rotary switch. 12 conductors to a 4PDT mini toggle. Six conductors for two pots, and the normal power and in/out stuff.
39 all together. Sweating bullets with each conductor trying to keep it clean, neat, and not fuck it up. Wish me luck on this guy.
Edit: yup. 16 conductors going to a 4P3T rotary switch. 12 conductors to a 4PDT mini toggle. Six conductors for two pots, and the normal power and in/out stuff.
39 all together. Sweating bullets with each conductor trying to keep it clean, neat, and not fuck it up. Wish me luck on this guy.
Last edited:
drgonzo1969
Well-known member
That’s the reason I have a shoebox of unfinished Vero projects haha.
Stickman393
Well-known member
For real! PCB mounted potentiometers have spoiled me. Back when I first started building everything was off-board GGG or tonepad offerings.
It's vexed me from the beginning. Melted insulation, snapped wires at the board. Sloppy looking builds because the wires are a little too short or a little too long.
Some of y'all have taught me some valuable lessons through your builds. Little bits and pieces that I've been able to adapt for my own uses. This thing is a monster, though. I just had to decide to use a greyhill sub-mini rotary switch too.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
This horn-dog…
As per title…
Didn’t have my DMM with me, as it wasn’t planned in advance to look at it tonight, so unable to check continudity vs signal-incontinence.
Pulled it apart, contact-cleanered all contacts and plugged it in while apart and tested — worked!
Job well done, so… Put it back together and that put it back to kaputskied. From faint-horn before operation, to working, to nada horn,eh tall.
So, looking to arm myself with forum’s collective wisdom before tackilling it a gin.
HELP
Horn plugs in to three prongs right of remaining plugs lower...
Didn’t have my DMM with me, as it wasn’t planned in advance to look at it tonight, so unable to check continudity vs signal-incontinence.
Pulled it apart, contact-cleanered all contacts and plugged it in while apart and tested — worked!
Job well done, so… Put it back together and that put it back to kaputskied. From faint-horn before operation, to working, to nada horn,eh tall.
So, looking to arm myself with forum’s collective wisdom before tackilling it a gin.
HELP
Horn plugs in to three prongs right of remaining plugs lower...
Stickman393
Well-known member
A'ite, halfway done.
Had to step away for half the day cause my PayPal reverted to my old address when I ordered my new phone.
Which takes better photos, I might add. My old S22 was scratched to shit and could barely hold a charge.
Pauleo1214
Well-known member
And she's alive! One Chinese, all carbon special with hydraulic brakes and electronic shifting! It stinks that it is so cold outside.
Silver Blues
Well-known member
Nice!! I knew the polished frame would look amazing, lol. Looks like it has very generous tire clearance for what's ostensibly an aero road frame!
Pauleo1214
Well-known member
Thank you! I wish all the cabling was internal but alas, thems the brakes. I believe the frame is purposed for gravel tires but I'm a road guy.
Cybercow
Well-known member
Nice!
We just each got a pair of Trek Farley 9.6, all carbon fat-tire bikes. These things easily allow passing over sloppy sand and snow up about 4 inches deep.
Pauleo1214
Well-known member
Those are some serious tires!
i have a couple bike shops near me that I will go to when I'm looking for a specialized bit to remove a freewheel or when I need a bike clamp. One is a Trek Store and the other is a local business. The local shop is unfortunately staffed by two guys that are complete snobs. The people at Trek are decent and never made fun of anything I brought in; not even my $239 Eurobike.
I'm not sure where I was going with this. Trek has great stuff but man are the prices eye watering. $14,000 for a Madone...woof.
Silver Blues
Well-known member
Trek is so ubiquitous and broad-coverage that it's easy to find something you like. I'm not a fan of their highest- or lowest-end offerings but their midrange is super solid.
Bikes and parts have gotten super expensive, and further good luck to the poor sods (me) who live in Canada. I used to tell people that ~$5k is the point of diminishing returns for most enthusiasts, but I don't think that's true anymore. Local tech told me recently that "things have gotten to the point that a bike wearing Ultegra is $8k" which in retrospect seems unimaginable. I'm in more than $3k on a custom build plan that will carry 105, so I guess it's true.
Bikes and parts have gotten super expensive, and further good luck to the poor sods (me) who live in Canada. I used to tell people that ~$5k is the point of diminishing returns for most enthusiasts, but I don't think that's true anymore. Local tech told me recently that "things have gotten to the point that a bike wearing Ultegra is $8k" which in retrospect seems unimaginable. I'm in more than $3k on a custom build plan that will carry 105, so I guess it's true.
Fama
Well-known member
Boxed up the Sandblaster fuzz, had some issues first with the jacks shorting out, but a quick rotate fixed that.
It works fine, what I'm curious about from others who have built it, how much of an effect did the buffer have for you? For me it gives a big boost to gain, which I do like, but from a quick look at a demo it doesn't seem accurate to the original. I wonder if I maybe have a cold solder joint somewhere or if it's because I used 2N2222A's for Q1 and Q4? I couldn't find BC182's easily. I'll test some more, check if wiggling the switch makes a difference and maybe try some other transistors (2N5089? I think I read someone suggest that somewhere).
I might also have different gain levels, not 100% sure, and of course that's tricky to check against demos because I don't know for sure how their amps are set up. But I do get a nice range of clean-to-fuzzy, although that's with the buffer switch set to the higher gain position (which one is on, btw? I think I can probably figure it out by measuring it, but if someone knows off-hand...).
It works fine, what I'm curious about from others who have built it, how much of an effect did the buffer have for you? For me it gives a big boost to gain, which I do like, but from a quick look at a demo it doesn't seem accurate to the original. I wonder if I maybe have a cold solder joint somewhere or if it's because I used 2N2222A's for Q1 and Q4? I couldn't find BC182's easily. I'll test some more, check if wiggling the switch makes a difference and maybe try some other transistors (2N5089? I think I read someone suggest that somewhere).
I might also have different gain levels, not 100% sure, and of course that's tricky to check against demos because I don't know for sure how their amps are set up. But I do get a nice range of clean-to-fuzzy, although that's with the buffer switch set to the higher gain position (which one is on, btw? I think I can probably figure it out by measuring it, but if someone knows off-hand...).
