What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
UtilityBeltFX
Well-known member
Finished clear coating this waterside decal on new bass build. I did one day of headstock prep, one day of decal application and drying, and three days of spraying and sanding (3 coats each day). I used Stew Macs Color Tone clear nitro. Really proud of how it came out! You can only see a faint outline from one very specific angle.
temol
Well-known member
More coming soon
owlexifry
Well-known member
Peavey update:
so i did the thing.
most won't give a shit about some old 'chugga chugga' amps but i'm excited so whatever
after a couple mods/upgrades, reflowed every single joint, filled up the open tracks, and cleaned the shit out of it:
treated the pots, header pins/connectors, and tube socket pins with deoxit d5.
mods:
5150ii/6505+/6534+ lead channel --> converted to 5150 / 6505 lead channel.
(C17) 470pF --> 470K+2.2n
(C2) 1n --> 22n
that's all there is to it.
the mk II lead channel just isn't as beefy.
i have a mid-boosting/bass-cutting overdrive always on, so the fatter coupling caps of the OG/mk I lead channel just works/sounds a lot better to my ears.
so this (lead channel) is now essentially a 5150 with EL34 power section.
other upgrades:
- replaced carbon film 68K input resistor with a spare vishay 1W metal film
- 1M input pulldown resistor - carbon film replaced with 1/2W metal film 1M
spent about 3 mins to confirm i didn't fuck up:
sounds good, yet to to actually properly investigate...
....cos I immediately started work on the next one - Peavey 6505: (other guitarists)
only x1 shitty ribbon cable.
built Apr-2007.
- this one left stock, but with the same input resistor (x2) upgrades, joints reflowed, deoxit treatment, etc.
- for some obscure reason, x1 half of the board was coated in some sort of a lacquer.
it became a disaster when i tried to clean it with IPA.
no matter what i did it kept drying like some prick had poured ajax cream cleanser all over it (tonnes of white residue).
eventually i figured out a great method and got rid of it all.
also - if anyone ever tries to tell you a 5150 is superior/different to a 6505:
SAME FUCKEN BOARD SINCE 1991.
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
I care about old chugga chugga amps 
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Nostradoomus, Luke's illegitimate half-brother...
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
I definitely resemble Chewbacca more. My home planet is Kachuuug.
Fama
Well-known member
Finally fixing up the Germanium 4 Big Muff I bought that had a faulty overdrive side. Desoldered the NKT275's, and although it's possible I damaged them while desoldering (which wasn't too bad although as usual I do hate it), one of them reads as a diode and the other has a hFE of 3.85 on the TC1 (although at 4V, need to charge it up). I put in sockets so I can test other transistors there, although I just realized they're PNP... But I do have some germaniums available (no silicon PNP I don't think, not 100% sure).
On the negative side, it was a huge fucking hassle to get the board out of the box and I'm dreading putting it back, I melted some of the knobs while taking them out because those were also a huge pain, and I soldered one of the socket on the wrong side of the board. Buuut if I get it back together and it's working, I'll still count it as a victory.
Edit:
Well it's all boxed up and everything still works great, so it's a huge success! Also the mini chickenhead knobs I used as replacements for the partially melted ones look cute as fuck (plus they show which side is not stock), so all in all a success. I suspect it might have slightly more gain now on the OD side, but can't say for sure since I only tested it when it was broken. It's still not a ton of gain, but it works nicely for me for anything except the doom/stoner metal stuff, I think.
On the negative side, it was a huge fucking hassle to get the board out of the box and I'm dreading putting it back, I melted some of the knobs while taking them out because those were also a huge pain, and I soldered one of the socket on the wrong side of the board. Buuut if I get it back together and it's working, I'll still count it as a victory.
Edit:
Well it's all boxed up and everything still works great, so it's a huge success! Also the mini chickenhead knobs I used as replacements for the partially melted ones look cute as fuck (plus they show which side is not stock), so all in all a success. I suspect it might have slightly more gain now on the OD side, but can't say for sure since I only tested it when it was broken. It's still not a ton of gain, but it works nicely for me for anything except the doom/stoner metal stuff, I think.
Last edited:
Good stuff. I got the 6505+ as well and put the 6505 spec components on external switches. You're missing just one thing, the treble cap in the tone stack of the 6505 is 570pF (470pF+100pF in parallel). 390pF works very well for a more scooped tone as well. I put all three on a DPDT on-on-on.
owlexifry
Well-known member
ahhh yep.. good call.
6505+
6505
i didn't even really look at these tbh
so it's simply a matter of 470pf vs. 570pf into the treble pot......
reckon i might just pick out a 560pF cap and drop one in
DailyDovetails
Well-known member
This is the IO board I came up with for my new builds. All the connections in the pedal will come in at the one 10 pin connector. The 3rd shielded cable is for DC power.
giovanni
Well-known member
Stamped how? Looks very crisp!
temol
Well-known member
The stamp glued to a piece of plexiglass, template to help with positioning glued to the enclosure. And hold your breath while pressing
Rubber stamp, Stazon ink.
giovanni
Well-known member
That’s really cool. Maybe I should try that. Where did you get the stamps?The stamp glued to a piece of plexiglass, template to help with positioning glued to the enclosure. And hold your breath while pressing
Rubber stamp, Stazon ink.
Edit: do you have to protect the ink after stamping?
temol
Well-known member
Stazon ink is quite resistant to abrasion but probably some protective layer wouldn't hurt. I don't put anything on top.
There are many companies that laser engrave stamps. You make a design (illustrator, inkscape) -> text to curves -> export to pdf. Should be enough.
Erik S
Well-known member
temol
Well-known member
I haven't tried any other brands, only Stazon. It's pretty good.
This resistance to rubbing is both an advantage and a disadvantage. If something goes wrong, it's very difficult to remove the ink without leaving a mark. When stamping, I always have a cotton pad with isopropyl alcohol at hand and I can start working immediately. But even that doesn't guarantee success. Sometimes a faint "ghost image" of the text remains, and sometimes - also faintly visible - a streak of ink. Here I mean smooth surfaces. Because with a texture like fine sand, for example, it's a big problem.
This resistance to rubbing is both an advantage and a disadvantage. If something goes wrong, it's very difficult to remove the ink without leaving a mark. When stamping, I always have a cotton pad with isopropyl alcohol at hand and I can start working immediately. But even that doesn't guarantee success. Sometimes a faint "ghost image" of the text remains, and sometimes - also faintly visible - a streak of ink. Here I mean smooth surfaces. Because with a texture like fine sand, for example, it's a big problem.
