jimilee
Well-known member
I can’t wait to see the end. I’m a sucker for Les Pauls…or with a bunch of Les Pauls, I don’t know. Works either way.Getting closer to being done.
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I can’t wait to see the end. I’m a sucker for Les Pauls…or with a bunch of Les Pauls, I don’t know. Works either way.Getting closer to being done.
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Unfortunately the hole for the 3PDT was a bit oversized so I used the washer to cover it up. I made them all a bit oversized because since the enclosure is hand drilled, some of the holes are slightly off in position. Sigh. I am definitely going to use Tayda’s drill service from now on.The white wa-![]()
The number marks for the Subharm and Master Osc controls.
Yeah, I didn’t realize they were 45 degrees from each other. I don’t know where I got the idea that they were 30 degrees apart. Many lessons learned on this one.The number marks for the Subharm and Master Osc controls.
What material are you using for the faceplate please?I made a big mistake with this faceplate that I fixed today. Will update with another picture later tonight. Can you spot the mistake?
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I've done cheap squier strip at least once, I didn't have a workroom or heatgun then so held it over the gas hob in the kitchen...Stripping the thick poly finish (which was full of dents) off a Squier mini Strat. Eventually it’ll get a nitro sonic blue paint job and nitro amber on the neck. Still need to figure out the best way to strip the neck finish without delaminating the fretboard (heat and chemicals both seem like bad ideas)— might just go with a classic card scraper.
Accidentally melted + stabbed thru my ceramics bench in the garage. Fuck.
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Rowmark makes a bunch of different types. This is either their LaserMark or LaserMax, I forget (I can check later). They are both 2 ply acrylic (silver on black in this case). I still haven’t figured out exactly what the difference between the two is. I get them from Johnson plastics. Let me know if you have more questions!What material are you using for the faceplate please?
The heat gun definitely made it easier, but it still took probably around 3-4 hours over two days. It still has some weird white powdery coat on it, but that shouldn’t impact anything— a quick sanding with 320 should be enough to prep it for a new coat of sealer. Probably too late in the season for this part of NY though, so the actual refinishing will probably have to wait until late March. In the meantime I’m thinking I might make a set of router templates so I can build more mini stats from scratch.I've done cheap squier strip at least once, I didn't have a workroom or heatgun then so held it over the gas hob in the kitchen...
For the pain of getting the thick poly finish off, then finding the plastic thick sealer underneath... it's sometimes easier just to get a bit of wood and start again!
It might be, but it honestly just seems like it was coated in talc powder before getting coated in the epoxy sealer. It has no real adhesion to the wood, and I think it would go away just with a damp rag. Shouldn’t be hard to completely remove, but I do want to make sure it’s gone so it doesn’t potentially interfere with the finish in any way.Sure the powdery coat isn't grain sealant?
Well what are you putting in?Pickup swap time in my SGView attachment 105106
My post in the mailbox threadWell what are you putting in?
Damn, their bass vi set is super reasonably priced. I've been debating between Mojo, Novak, and Lollar sets but $120? Just might have to buy 'em for science.
I have a strat set that's really fantastic. It's hard to go wrong with his prices. He can wind you whatever you're looking for. Shoot Adam an email.Damn, their bass vi set is super reasonably priced. I've been debating between Mojo, Novak, and Lollar sets but $120? Just might have to buy 'em for science.
Man, seeing that he’s winding pickups where I graduated high school is so wild.I have a strat set that's really fantastic. It's hard to go wrong with his prices. He can wind you whatever you're looking for. Shoot Adam an email.