Harry Klippton
Not Interested
I've done this method maybe a half a dozen times to Tascam parts but obviously no long term sample to check. I haven't gotten fully satisfactory results either so I'd be happy to skip the extra hours it takes
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
JasonWickersham
Well-known member
Mouser! Wasn’t THAT bad considering how much the Hammond die cast enclosures go for.
I live very close to their Dallas/Fort Worth warehouse and it arrived next day with standard UPS shipping.
leadfoot
Well-known member
12 stage phaser?! Send me one!
I'm currently laying out a dual board 12 stage phaser utilizing a TAPFLO3D to drive the LEDs.
owlexifry
Well-known member
been baking some breadboard circuits over the weekend...
my adventures with CMOS started after reading chuck's CMOS muff thread a year ago or so.
inspired, i ordered x5 NOS RCA 4049s on ebay (here) for a great price, and then sat on them for a while.
runoffgroove seems to get a lot of praise for their designs, so first i tried the runoffgroove 22/7.
it was ok.
tried some mods - red led clippers, no clippers, bigger feedback resistors, different tone controls, eh.. it just didn't muff the way i want a muff to muff.
should have just done chuck's Muff #49 instead (pending).
anyway, on saturday i pulled up the Ample Alpaca Overdrive (red llama) schematic and gave it a crack.
i can see why it's popular.
was pleasantly surprised by how natural, and (dare i say it) amp-like, the distortion of the red llama is.
not sure i'd call it an overdrive though.
this is a distortion.
seems to handle an SD-1 boost quite nicely too.
my adventures with CMOS started after reading chuck's CMOS muff thread a year ago or so.
inspired, i ordered x5 NOS RCA 4049s on ebay (here) for a great price, and then sat on them for a while.
runoffgroove seems to get a lot of praise for their designs, so first i tried the runoffgroove 22/7.
it was ok.
tried some mods - red led clippers, no clippers, bigger feedback resistors, different tone controls, eh.. it just didn't muff the way i want a muff to muff.
should have just done chuck's Muff #49 instead (pending).
anyway, on saturday i pulled up the Ample Alpaca Overdrive (red llama) schematic and gave it a crack.
i can see why it's popular.
was pleasantly surprised by how natural, and (dare i say it) amp-like, the distortion of the red llama is.
not sure i'd call it an overdrive though.
this is a distortion.
seems to handle an SD-1 boost quite nicely too.
gtfields13
Well-known member
I was wondering, as polymers and chemistry is closer to my profession (polymer-based drug delivery). Peroxide doesn't play nice with some kinds of polymer chains, but I can see where some resins (i.e. polypropylene) might not care so much. And I have no experience with pigments, but I would expect that whites (titanium, typicall) wouldn't be impacted, either.
If you had an FTIR lying around, you could work out the polymer resin pretty easily.
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
I don't even know what that isIf you had an FTIR lying around, you could work out the polymer resin pretty easily.
gtfields13
Well-known member
Yee ha!
(yes, I live in cowboy country)
The Empyrean Overdrive pcb is built and tests out fine. I need to watch some videos to see if my project matches the sound of an original Darkglass Alpha-Omega, but all the controls do what I expect them to do.
I just need to get the case in from Tayda, so I can wire this up, test out the add-on balanced output, and move it on to it's actual bass-playing owner.
Speaking of Tayda and UV printing. You ever have a "your file has a problem" status messages, open up an fix the problem then go back to Tayda and rebuild the job --- only to FORGET to upload the corrected file. Yep, I will be re-looping on that one. Most of my current job is printed, so I am hoping to see this one in the next week or so.
(how much harm can an extra mm do in the print size? but actually, how the hell did I create a template that was 1mm off when I duplicated from a file is the correct dimension).
The science is an FTIR is a lot like what we do with audio. In this case you send broad band infrared light but change the path length with a moving mirror to cause interference in a controlled time-frequency manner. You can then use an FFT transform of the detected light intensity to convert time-domain signal into optical frequency domain. Basically a version of an optical wide-band phaser/flanger that users a moving mirror interferometer to generate the notches...
It's useful, because (asymmetric) chemical bonds tend to absorb infrared light at specific frequencies, sample preparation is easy, and so it's a really quick tool that is frequently used to identify materials, including polymer resins.
(yes, I live in cowboy country)
The Empyrean Overdrive pcb is built and tests out fine. I need to watch some videos to see if my project matches the sound of an original Darkglass Alpha-Omega, but all the controls do what I expect them to do.
I just need to get the case in from Tayda, so I can wire this up, test out the add-on balanced output, and move it on to it's actual bass-playing owner.
Speaking of Tayda and UV printing. You ever have a "your file has a problem" status messages, open up an fix the problem then go back to Tayda and rebuild the job --- only to FORGET to upload the corrected file. Yep, I will be re-looping on that one. Most of my current job is printed, so I am hoping to see this one in the next week or so.
(how much harm can an extra mm do in the print size? but actually, how the hell did I create a template that was 1mm off when I duplicated from a file is the correct dimension).
FTIR - Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometer (or Spectroscopy, if talking about the technique).
The science is an FTIR is a lot like what we do with audio. In this case you send broad band infrared light but change the path length with a moving mirror to cause interference in a controlled time-frequency manner. You can then use an FFT transform of the detected light intensity to convert time-domain signal into optical frequency domain. Basically a version of an optical wide-band phaser/flanger that users a moving mirror interferometer to generate the notches...
It's useful, because (asymmetric) chemical bonds tend to absorb infrared light at specific frequencies, sample preparation is easy, and so it's a really quick tool that is frequently used to identify materials, including polymer resins.
jessenator
Well-known member
Finally putting the reverse etched faceplate on the 5W guy.
Went for these spline shaft knobs I took from something ages ago. Chicken heads aren't my thing at the best of times, so good riddance.
Went for these spline shaft knobs I took from something ages ago. Chicken heads aren't my thing at the best of times, so good riddance.
jessenator
Well-known member
Nailed it
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Erik S
Well-known member
Well, I was real impressed until I wasn’t!
Paradox916
Well-known member
That will piss you off…
ould have seen this coming
jessenator
Well-known member
That will piss you off…
MichaelW
Well-known member
Dang, THAT's a "breadboard"?
bean
Legume Liaison
That's the poster for DIY. A perfectly executed fuckup.
gtfields13
Well-known member
This got as far as it can go until some Mouser and Tayda parts show up. Even though I finished up the Empyrean Deluxe (AionFX Darkglass Alpha-Omega derivative), having picked up an extra PCB from @Aleph Null means I am stuck at 25 boards to go (with 2 underway but waiting for parts).
So, I will jump into my 2nd Small Stone phaser clone. I have the case ready, so this can be done done done this week.
So, I will jump into my 2nd Small Stone phaser clone. I have the case ready, so this can be done done done this week.
jubal81
Well-known member
I keep dreaming about making some modules to pop in there so I don't have to keep rebuilding things.
Problem is, I keep thinking up new functions and it keeps me from committing to one design - like for an LFO.
