What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Trying to do some tidying up to make her roadworthy. It’s all little piddly stuff but important. I scored a rear view mirror on eBay and installed it today. I have hardware coming to install the old door panels until I pull the trigger one new ones (expensive). I’m gonna get some new tires to throw on it just to drive around on until I settle on new wheels and tires. Seat covers are on the agenda too. In case you’re curious it’s a 75. All new crate motor and transmission. She runs like a champ she just needs finishing. My dad is getting older and said he doesn’t have time or really care about finishing it anymore so he went ahead and gave it to me. I fixed the hood the other day so it latches. Like I said, little stuff.
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I don't generally care for American cars, but the C3 Corvette has always been an exception. Best looking car ever made in my opinion.
 
The screw holes were so off on the body that I decided to plug and re-drill them. I used a template in the neck pocket and a drill press. Despite that, the new holes were off as well—this time in the other direction! I took a Dremel to it and fudged the new holes. Now the neck bolts on straight, but the neck plate hides untold horrors.
 

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The screw holes were so off on the body that I decided to plug and re-drill them. I used a template in the neck pocket and a drill press. Despite that, the new holes were off as well—this time in the other direction! I took a Dremel to it and fudged the new holes. Now the neck bolts on straight, but the neck plate hides untold horrors.
That is a super sexy sparkle finish. where did you get it?
 
That is a super sexy sparkle finish. where did you get it?
I got it from guitarfetish.com I did a previous build with one of their bodies that went together pretty easy. The neck pocket on this one is wonky and the return process is such that I wanted to try and make it work. If you are willing to hazard a little extra work, it might be worth it. It's not like what you'd expect from Warmoth or something, though.
 
I got it from guitarfetish.com I did a previous build with one of their bodies that went together pretty easy. The neck pocket on this one is wonky and the return process is such that I wanted to try and make it work. If you are willing to hazard a little extra work, it might be worth it. It's not like what you'd expect from Warmoth or something, though.
Nice! I've used guitarfetish bodies before and love em. My favorite strat has one of their mega cheap $40 bodies. I've built two guitars with warmoth bodies and they were nice but I probably won't use them again unless I decide I need to build guitar with a specific wood type.
 
Nice! I've used guitarfetish bodies before and love em. My favorite strat has one of their mega cheap $40 bodies. I've built two guitars with warmoth bodies and they were nice but I probably won't use them again unless I decide I need to build guitar with a specific wood type.
My approach has been "cheap and cheery" where I can get away with it and "high quality" where I can't. This build is a Warmoth neck, Boot Strap pickups, and a Guitar Fetish body. If I really can't abide the neck pocket, or if I find more issues as I go, I may end up springing for a Warmoth body to finish the build. This being a twelve string telecaster further complicates things and limits hardware choices.
 
I don't generally care for American cars, but the C3 Corvette has always been an exception. Best looking car ever made in my opinion.
It’s a pretty cool car. My dad bought it new in 1975. It’s also one of the cars I learned to drive on many years ago. The car in the background covered in crap is usually more my cup of tea. It’s a 68 Datsun 2000 (roadster). That being said I love the corvette too. Like you said it’s a great looking car.
 
at last 🤟
IMG_4294.jpeg
funnily enough, this one was quite a troublemaker 🥵
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this took me much longer to get a handle on and running properly than it took for a Boss HM-2 or even the MT-2 - both more than twice the size of this circuit.

didn't help that I initially started with a fake TA7136 (got my refund)
IMG_4196.jpeg
but that’s not the worst of it.

i’m kinda shocked the problems this bastard circuit has isn’t talked about more, particularly the DS-1A / post-1994 version with dual opamp. fortunately at least one person here posted a DIYSB link that covers this issue.
initially I was referring to the aionfx comet legacy schematic, which unfortunately suggests you can just plop in a 4558 or equivalent...

but you can't, unless you move this diode:
1778196728550.png
1778196888585.png
IME, with the diode in stock position (+/non-inverting input to ground), that spicy signal coming off Q2 absolutely slams the opamp, in a way that makes it sound like a HM-2 doing the chainsaw thing, and not in a good way - if you play gentle it doesn't happen, if you play normally it sorta swells in and out. fucking awful.

i also made an odd discovery that I'm still yet to understand:
- if you skip the input buffer, and hook up the guitar input directly to C2/47n, this problem disappears! wtf... cool! but that didn't sound like a reasonable solution, and i was convinced I had made an error somewhere..

before I had found this advice above, i was stumped.

noting the advice above about opamp selection, i confirmed this with an LM358 - works fine with stock configuration.
RC4580, 4558, LF353 -> absolutely fucked with the stock configuration, and all worked well with the diode between (+) & (-) inputs

little bit disappointed that aionfx has not corrected the comet legacy document with it's misleading advice. the updated/current comet document has corrected this but still, ffs..

noting comments about the redundancy of this 1st opamp/buffer stage in the dual opamp version, i was curious to try out a single opamp version with a KR140UD708 (soviet LM741 equivalent) and set up the breadboard to accommodate both 741 and 4558 for direct swap/comparison.

and then after finding this service manual with schematics for the x2 versions, I had to explore both.

honestly, the OG/pre-1994 version kinda sucks (for me). the larger cap values (1U v 470n; 470n v 68n) make for a flubby response.
yes, im not using the correct TA7136 opamp to assess it properly, but I'm not convinced it would rectify those issues.
I'm going to assume folks that prefer the early version are single coil players.

with the DS-1A values, comparing KR140UD708/LM741 to 4558, i wanted to like the 741, but the 4558 had more volume, punch, and high end detail, where the 741 was smoother, more polite, and a smidge less gain.
with this information, I would probably recommend the 741 for those that prefer a more 'vintage-inspired' DS-1, and the 4558 for those that like a more modern/full spectrum response.

here's my demo (DS-1A version w/ 4558)
surprisingly beefy. gain is cranked up to about 80-90% on the trimpot, so there is a touch of 'sag' going on..

next steps - will have to try some of CDB's mods --> particularly the one with 470R/2U2 for Q2s emitter.. (im not really into the sag)
1778200252395.png
 
Trying to do some tidying up to make her roadworthy. It’s all little piddly stuff but important. I scored a rear view mirror on eBay and installed it today. I have hardware coming to install the old door panels until I pull the trigger one new ones (expensive). I’m gonna get some new tires to throw on it just to drive around on until I settle on new wheels and tires. Seat covers are on the agenda too. In case you’re curious it’s a 75. All new crate motor and transmission. She runs like a champ she just needs finishing. My dad is getting older and said he doesn’t have time or really care about finishing it anymore so he went ahead and gave it to me. I fixed the hood the other day so it latches. Like I said, little stuff.
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Gorgeous
 
The screw holes were so off on the body that I decided to plug and re-drill them. I used a template in the neck pocket and a drill press. Despite that, the new holes were off as well—this time in the other direction! I took a Dremel to it and fudged the new holes. Now the neck bolts on straight, but the neck plate hides untold horrors.
Every time I see people custom guitar builds I start itching to make one myself… but I don’t need another guitar and my wife may not tolerate more guitars! :)
 
@owlexifry I think that sounds pretty bad ass as is! Certainly don’t recall my old ds1 sounding that goodbb
this one seems a bit more burly/aggressive/chunky than my '09 DS-1, I'm really not sure why, but for now I'm going to assume that the opamp, and possibly transistor selection - might play a fairly significant role in the resulting sound - in a way that I've not really experienced with other distortion circuits before.
 
Trying to do some tidying up to make her roadworthy. It’s all little piddly stuff but important. I scored a rear view mirror on eBay and installed it today. I have hardware coming to install the old door panels until I pull the trigger one new ones (expensive). I’m gonna get some new tires to throw on it just to drive around on until I settle on new wheels and tires. Seat covers are on the agenda too. In case you’re curious it’s a 75. All new crate motor and transmission. She runs like a champ she just needs finishing. My dad is getting older and said he doesn’t have time or really care about finishing it anymore so he went ahead and gave it to me. I fixed the hood the other day so it latches. Like I said, little stuff.
View attachment 116769
So what was the HFE and Leakage did you put in her?
 
I got it from guitarfetish.com I did a previous build with one of their bodies that went together pretty easy. The neck pocket on this one is wonky and the return process is such that I wanted to try and make it work. If you are willing to hazard a little extra work, it might be worth it. It's not like what you'd expect from Warmoth or something, though.
The GuitarFetish bodies are drilled for their own necks, I've had to plug the holes in non-GF necks and re-drill them make them work on GF bodies. I have two Tele's with GFS bodies.
 
at last 🤟
View attachment 116787
funnily enough, this one was quite a troublemaker 🥵
View attachment 116785
this took me much longer to get a handle on and running properly than it took for a Boss HM-2 or even the MT-2 - both more than twice the size of this circuit.

didn't help that I initially started with a fake TA7136 (got my refund)
View attachment 116788
but that’s not the worst of it.

i’m kinda shocked the problems this bastard circuit has isn’t talked about more, particularly the DS-1A / post-1994 version with dual opamp. fortunately at least one person here posted a DIYSB link that covers this issue.
initially I was referring to the aionfx comet legacy schematic, which unfortunately suggests you can just plop in a 4558 or equivalent...

but you can't, unless you move this diode:
View attachment 116789
View attachment 116790
IME, with the diode in stock position (+/non-inverting input to ground), that spicy signal coming off Q2 absolutely slams the opamp, in a way that makes it sound like a HM-2 doing the chainsaw thing, and not in a good way - if you play gentle it doesn't happen, if you play normally it sorta swells in and out. fucking awful.

i also made an odd discovery that I'm still yet to understand:
- if you skip the input buffer, and hook up the guitar input directly to C2/47n, this problem disappears! wtf... cool! but that didn't sound like a reasonable solution, and i was convinced I had made an error somewhere..

before I had found this advice above, i was stumped.

noting the advice above about opamp selection, i confirmed this with an LM358 - works fine with stock configuration.
RC4580, 4558, LF353 -> absolutely fucked with the stock configuration, and all worked well with the diode between (+) & (-) inputs

little bit disappointed that aionfx has not corrected the comet legacy document with it's misleading advice. the updated/current comet document has corrected this but still, ffs..

noting comments about the redundancy of this 1st opamp/buffer stage in the dual opamp version, i was curious to try out a single opamp version with a KR140UD708 (soviet LM741 equivalent) and set up the breadboard to accommodate both 741 and 4558 for direct swap/comparison.

and then after finding this service manual with schematics for the x2 versions, I had to explore both.

honestly, the OG/pre-1994 version kinda sucks (for me). the larger cap values (1U v 470n; 470n v 68n) make for a flubby response.
yes, im not using the correct TA7136 opamp to assess it properly, but I'm not convinced it would rectify those issues.
I'm going to assume folks that prefer the early version are single coil players.

with the DS-1A values, comparing KR140UD708/LM741 to 4558, i wanted to like the 741, but the 4558 had more volume, punch, and high end detail, where the 741 was smoother, more polite, and a smidge less gain.
with this information, I would probably recommend the 741 for those that prefer a more 'vintage-inspired' DS-1, and the 4558 for those that like a more modern/full spectrum response.

here's my demo (DS-1A version w/ 4558)
surprisingly beefy. gain is cranked up to about 80-90% on the trimpot, so there is a touch of 'sag' going on..

next steps - will have to try some of CDB's mods --> particularly the one with 470R/2U2 for Q2s emitter.. (im not really into the sag)
View attachment 116795
This is really interesting. I built the Aion Legacy DS-1. I used a DIP 8 OpAmp, can't remember which. It sat on the shelf as a "classic" I guess....because it sounded so bad I never wanted to play it.... :ROFLMAO: . I finally, just this week took it apart and re-purposed the enclosure, since I can't afford to buy new enclosures from Tayda anymore.....:p. I haven't scrapped the board yet, I might try some of your mods.
 
NGD!!!

Ok this was actually on my bench yesterday.
With all the money I saved by NOT placing any orders from Tayda and paying Tarrifs, I was able to buy this.....:ROFLMAO:.

A Gibson Les Paul Standard CME Exclusive. I think the exclusive is both the color, "Dirty Lemon Drop" and the CME spec'd pickups.
This has the same set of Gibson T-Tops that CME also used in their CME Spec run of SGs.

It arrived in one piece, no broken headstock, so that was a good start!
I've mentioned before the "typical Gibson foibles" when I got my ES-335 last year. This guitar is surprisingly clean. I have not found any of the typical trouble spots on Gibsons.

My first criteria was weight, I wanted something between 8-9lbs. This one came in at 8lbs 7oz. Definitely the lightest Les Paul I've ever owned.
The fact this one has a top that's easy on the eyes was secondary.

The frets needed a polish and the fingerboard was a little dry, I'm thinking this guitar sat in it's case for a couple of years. Serial number makes it a 2020 build date but it's a brand new guitar. Makes sense as browsing CME's inventory they have quite a few of this exact model in stock.
I did a fluff and buff on the frets and conditioned the fretboard with Howards Feed'n'Wax, and put on a set of DR Pure Blues and did a quick set up.

I also am not a fan of the typical BurstBucker 1 and 2 the LP Standard 50's typically come with. These T-Tops definitely have a bit more "bite" than the BB1 and 2's. I'm digging them at the moment. But jury's still out on whether or not I'll be having Adam at ToneHatch wind me something custom.

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NGD!!!

Ok this was actually on my bench yesterday.
With all the money I saved by NOT placing any orders from Tayda and paying Tarrifs, I was able to buy this.....:ROFLMAO:.

A Gibson Les Paul Standard CME Exclusive. I think the exclusive is both the color, "Dirty Lemon Drop" and the CME spec'd pickups.
This has the same set of Gibson T-Tops that CME also used in their CME Spec run of SGs.

It arrived in one piece, no broken headstock, so that was a good start!
I've mentioned before the "typical Gibson foibles" when I got my ES-335 last year. This guitar is surprisingly clean. I have not found any of the typical trouble spots on Gibsons.

My first criteria was weight, I wanted something between 8-9lbs. This one came in at 8lbs 7oz. Definitely the lightest Les Paul I've ever owned.
The fact this one has a top that's easy on the eyes was secondary.

The frets needed a polish and the fingerboard was a little dry, I'm thinking this guitar sat in it's case for a couple of years. Serial number makes it a 2020 build date but it's a brand new guitar. Makes sense as browsing CME's inventory they have quite a few of this exact model in stock.
I did a fluff and buff on the frets and conditioned the fretboard with Howards Feed'n'Wax, and put on a set of DR Pure Blues and did a quick set up.

I also am not a fan of the typical BurstBucker 1 and 2 the LP Standard 50's typically come with. These T-Tops definitely have a bit more "bite" than the BB1 and 2's. I'm digging them at the moment. But jury's still out on whether or not I'll be having Adam at ToneHatch wind me something custom.

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you wanted to be like GOTA sooo bad 🤣 Happy for you and it was fun twisting your arm
 
Already posted in the High Voltage thread, but my new tube bass amp has finally moved on to listening tests and "final" (heh) circuit tweaks. Still waiting on the bigger output transformer, although 60 watt mode is already fine for playing in my small jam space. Works well for acoustic guitar too, although I rarely bother to plug that in.

PW100B_WIP4.jpg

Lots of details like cab corners to take care of still, but it's nice to be able to play through this thing now, at least!
 
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